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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1266

post #12651 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Djghost454 View Post

Nothing else, 3 beeps, then waits a few seconds and 3 beeps again. Put my friends 3770k in and it boots right up.
Posted pics a few pages back, scratched PCB in delidding attempt. This sucks frown.gif

god damn - try the prepare method. put paper in-between the pcb and ihs - and try to see if it boots
You can assume it isn't pins, ram etc related as your friends one boots
post #12652 of 33558
Stuff like that is what scared me and makes me not want to delid. I'll probably still do it anyway since I do want to try, but that sucks man frown.gif
post #12653 of 33558
Once you remove the Lid, can it be glued back on?
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post #12654 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by =JLumbs= View Post

1.344 volts is what i need to get to 4.5ghz DAMMIT!!!!!

What is the 1.52v guideline????
1.52v is the maximum VID on the Intel spec sheet. That doesn't mean for sure that is the maximum voltage but it is a good guideline to stay under for 24/7 use. I don't know anyone that has degraded their Ivy yet with high volts, I do know a few people that have killed theirs, cough, Valguar, cough. But as a recommendation I wouldn't put the voltage much past the 1.5-1.55 area. And if you need 1.344v for 4.5GHz I'd be willing to bet you need more than 1.55v to get 5.0GHz stable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

Once you remove the Lid, can it be glued back on?

Yes, rubber adhesive or epoxy. You want to go very very light in your application though. The purpose of delidding your chip was to get rid of the absurd amount of adhesive Intel used.
post #12655 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

...thanks chann31 ! I'm sure you remember your first leak-test biggrin.gif This is my first-ever custom loop after playing with closed-loops for a while...went the harder way with the 360 rad positioning now so that it will be much easier to set up a second 360 (or 2x 240) 'in the roof' for the three GPUs though they seem to be running fairly cool even after modding the bios and upping the power target to 150%. Final assembly and case modding tomorrow...
That sounds pretty awesome. I'm gonna add my gpu to my loop in April. And ya I remember my first fill very well as it was in January lol. Prior to that I had only ever used air. I just spent the month of December reading forums and watching a few of dazmodes videos until it felt like I had already built custom loops before haha.
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post #12656 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

Once you remove the Lid, can it be glued back on?

black silicone RTV - yes it can, but would be pointless to do so IMO
post #12657 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeG View Post

Is it possible to remove the IHS altogether? Yes, my waterblock is directly mounted to my CPU die. I think there are a few others here with similar setups.

The IHS have a certain thickness, will the heatsink still be touching the CPU without the IHS? Some heatsinks such as the stock Intel heatsink that have a fixed height will not make contact with the die. You need to have a waterblock or heat sink where you can adjust the height.

If the IHS is used, does the Coolaboratory Pro bond the heatsink to the IHS so that it's difficult to remove? I've only been using CLP for a couple months, but have experimented with different mounts, and never had a problem. The CLP remained liquid and the IHS easily removed. I have read that it "hardens" over time, but I don't think so much so that it is difficult to separate the two surfaces. The only problem with CLP is that it is hard to completely wipe it off of metal surfaces. If you wish to remove all remaining residue, the manufacturer recommends using metal polish. People are going to throw stones at me for saying this, but I have successfully used "Weiman" metal polish several times without any ill effects. Here is a link to the manufacturer's instuctions: http://www.coollaboratory.com/pdf/manual_liquid_pro_englisch.pdf

I tried PK-1, but had better results with CLP.

^^^ Great info, and well presented ! On running the CPU die 'naked' (that is without IHS altogether), I'm seriously thinking about it as I'm about to reassemble my system following the addition of a custom-WC loop..The IHS was originally already a bit crooked BEFORE delidding headscratch.gif , now it is quite crooked the other way AFTER the delidding doh.gif (circumstances included blood via slipped razor blade, bad light, way too much espresso at 4 am...). It works great now re temps, but as long as i don't use too much force with the water block tightening procedure, I think it is worth a try to run the die naked. While the temp gain will probably be very marginal, there is no way the IHS can be crooked on the die if I am not running an IHS biggrin.gif

...on CLP / CLU, I find that CLU beats CLP by just a fraction temp wise (I know others had the reverse the results; depends I guess on application and other custom factors). The one big advantage I like about CLU is that it is easier to clean off
post #12658 of 33558
Thanks, and what is the best thermal paste to use between the IHS and CPU and Heatsink.
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XSPC Chrome Compression Fittings EK RES X3 150 Primochill PremoFlex Advanced LRT Clear 1/2 ID EK-FC (R9 290X) 
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post #12659 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

Thanks, and what is the best thermal paste to use between the IHS and CPU and Heatsink.

I used CL-U - here is a video which some of this thread like (me included as I originally linked it), while others complain about the CL-P application method...in my own tests of IHS to CPU heatsink thermal pastes, I found that CL-U beat MX4 (a very good product in its own right that is also non-conductive and non-capacitive) by 3.5 C.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5YW9GY_yPE
Edited by Joa3d43 - 2/26/13 at 9:10am
post #12660 of 33558
Most people use Coollaboratory Liquid Pro/Ultra on die and whatever they normally use on the IHS. I've seen some people use Pro on both surfaces tho. I'm thinking of trying Ultra on die and IHS too.
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