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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1288

post #12871 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyd View Post

I kind of like the thrill of the silicone lottery.
I've always lost it, lol. I've had one decent AMD chip and one decent Intel chip. Other than that all my chips have sucked tongue.gif
post #12872 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

Delidded status isn't worth much, really. It's all dependant on the overclock, otherwise you get marketprice without an OC. 3770k's are about $220-250 if you're lucky, and a 3570k is around $190-200

Price difference between 3570k @ 4.5 and @ 5.0?

I ask because I'm wondering if I delid and get a good OC could I sell or trade it for a 3770k (and in turn delid that for myself)

EDIT:
Thanks for answering by the way!
post #12873 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

The pressure on the 'naked' CPU die is key also per your posts...as mentioned in another response I wrote earlier, I have read in some Euro sites that some folks have been able to run 'naked die / IHS-free' without removing the ILM...but they too were using a custom back plate and - this might be the difference - had a thin piece of copper the shape of the die in between (it was actually a temp sensor as far as I recall)...another interesting solution involved a slight machining of the water-block's outside rim, so to speak, taking off a few mm so that the water block could rest on the LM but had its 'inner parts' protrude just a bit - but that takes CNC equipment and skills (the same chap in Germany also had a small water jet setup he used to carve himself a water jacket for his GPUs biggrin.gif doesn't everybody ? biggrin.gif )

That all sounds way more complicated than it need be. It's really not too difficult removing the ILM, just be sure to keep the cover on the socket so you don't accidentally drop one of the screws in there. Like I said, the EK backplate is perfect for this and doesn't cost much. The only problem I had the first time was in being overly cautious, I did not screw the waterblock down far enough. The CPU wasn't making good electrical contact with the socket, and I got a post code of 55 if memory serves me right. Now that I have done it several times, I can not think of any reason to go back to using a lid. I am probably applying just as much pressure to the die with my waterblock as the pressure applied by the IHS sitting directly on the die. It is so easy now to take it apart and put it back together. Maybe sonda5 can also weigh in.

Just as a footnote, I upgraded the tubing and compression fittings to 1/2 ID, 3/4 OD last weekend. I don't have much patience when it comes to mechanical things, and the tubing was a little tight to slide over the fittings not to mention trying to get my big hands in there to tighten down the compression nuts. I really had to manhandle it to get it on, and have bloody knuckles as proof. My waterblock was mounted to the die at the time, which in hindsight, was probably not a good idea. I was really surprised that it booted right up without any problem.
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post #12874 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbmayes2000 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

Delidded status isn't worth much, really. It's all dependant on the overclock, otherwise you get marketprice without an OC. 3770k's are about $220-250 if you're lucky, and a 3570k is around $190-200

Price difference between 3570k @ 4.5 and @ 5.0?

I ask because I'm wondering if I delid and get a good OC could I sell or trade it for a 3770k (and in turn delid that for myself)

EDIT:
Thanks for answering by the way!

3570k ... not much. People who want performance go for 3770k's right off the bat. I'd give you $180 for it though tongue.gif
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post #12875 of 33685
id sell my 3570k @5ghz with 1.37v for no less than biggrin.gif 400$
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post #12876 of 33685
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330617213128?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Is this what you could possibly use for padding using the direct die mounting method? I don't plan to do so anytime soon, but i wanted to poke at the possibility.
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post #12877 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilchronic View Post

id sell my 3570k @5ghz with 1.37v for no less than biggrin.gif 400$

GLWS
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post #12878 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

GLWS
lol well if i didnt destroy my fisrt chip deliding, i wouldent of never had to spend ANOTHER 200$ on a 2nd 3570k. but im very happy with my chip its a lilbeast biggrin.gif its not for sale unless i get 400$ lolz
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750Gb WD Black Sony  F1 Gemini CPU Pot Tek - 9 Fat 
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
2x Intel 520 120Gb SSD in RAID 0  Intel 180Gb 530 SSD OS Drive 2Tb WD HDD  2x Intel 730 SSD 480GB in RAID 0 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x HWLabs GTX360 Black Ice in Push Pull EK blocks for CPU / GPU's 6x corsair sp120 2350RPM 6x Ek Vardar 120 F4's 2200rpm  
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
windows 10 XB270HU 2560x1440 - 144Hz - G-sync Razor blackwidow cooler master V1000 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair 780T EVGA TORQ x10 evga mouse pad 2.1 audio / Hyper X cloud II / Sennheiser Gam... 
Other
EK pump / res 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
6600k Z170M OC Formula GTX780Ti AMD HD6450 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Trident Z 3600Mhz cl16 2x8GB 120Gb intel 520 120Gb intel 520 64Gb adata ssd  
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
750Gb WD Black Sony  F1 Gemini CPU Pot Tek - 9 Fat 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
custom loop two 240rad's xp,W7,W8,W10 x-star 2560x1440  Rosewill Quark-650 Platinum / Antec HCP-850 Pla... 
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post #12879 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeG View Post

That all sounds way more complicated than it need be. It's really not too difficult removing the ILM, just be sure to keep the cover on the socket so you don't accidentally drop one of the screws in there. Like I said, the EK backplate is perfect for this and doesn't cost much. The only problem I had the first time was in being overly cautious, I did not screw the waterblock down far enough. The CPU wasn't making good electrical contact with the socket, and I got a post code of 55 if memory serves me right. Now that I have done it several times, I can not think of any reason to go back to using a lid. I am probably applying just as much pressure to the die with my waterblock as the pressure applied by the IHS sitting directly on the die. It is so easy now to take it apart and put it back together. Maybe sonda5 can also weigh in.

Just as a footnote, I upgraded the tubing and compression fittings to 1/2 ID, 3/4 OD last weekend. I don't have much patience when it comes to mechanical things, and the tubing was a little tight to slide over the fittings not to mention trying to get my big hands in there to tighten down the compression nuts. I really had to manhandle it to get it on, and have bloody knuckles as proof. My waterblock was mounted to the die at the time, which in hindsight, was probably not a good idea. I was really surprised that it booted right up without any problem.

Thanks for the extra info, MikeG ...re your footnote, after having 'wrestled a python' in place per 1/2 inch inner 3/4 inch outer diameter hoses myself this week, I don't want to think about taking it off again soon biggrin.gif

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder 7.0.1041 - Jul 19 2011;
post #12880 of 33685
I don't know what to say about my Antec really - but I'm on stock voltages at stock clocks with the antec + normal fans:
http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club/3840#post_19415591

58c de-lidded of course.
I'm a little speechless for the time being, as my temps before I sent it to be RMA'ed (nothing was exchanged) - the temps were much higher - Could be WU related.
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