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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1308

post #13071 of 33562
so you guys think it's not worth de-lidding if i don't have coolab liquid pro ? mx-4 , noctoua nh-t1 or ocz freeze won't cut it ? redface.gif

all i hope for is 4.6 GHz at 75c max
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post #13072 of 33562
Quote:
Originally Posted by invincible20xx View Post

so you guys think it's not worth de-lidding if i don't have coolab liquid pro ? mx-4 , noctoua nh-t1 or ocz freeze won't cut it ? redface.gif

all i hope for is 4.6 GHz at 75c max

...CL-U / P for the die would be better - BUT MX4 will tide you over nicely until you get some CL...in my own experience (others may vary) MX4 losses about 3.5 C to 4 C to CL-U but is better than most other non CL products...plus it is non-conductive and non-capacitive (unlike CL ), so safer if you by mistake drop some (like an earlier poster did with a DRAM slot)

...good luck with the delidding smile.gif
post #13073 of 33562
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

...CL-U / P for the die would be better - BUT MX4 will tide you over nicely until you get some CL...in my own experience (others may vary) MX4 losses about 3.5 C to 4 C to CL-U but is better than most other non CL products...plus it is non-conductive and non-capacitive (unlike CL ), so safer if you by mistake drop some (like an earlier poster did with a DRAM slot)

...good luck with the delidding smile.gif

thanks, 3~4 c is no big deal anyways , right ? but this is ocn i know hah biggrin.gif
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post #13074 of 33562
Quote:
Originally Posted by invincible20xx View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agoniizing View Post

What cooler are you using? And if you do end up delidding, use PK-1. And where are you from?

i'm using a nzxt havik 140 and it's performance is equivalent to a noctua nh-d14.....

and i'm from egypt and the only thermal compounds available to me are some ocz freeze that i have around from a couple of years back and i can get mx-4 or noctua nt-h1 from the market

I actually own both the havik 140 and nh-d14 and they are not similar at all. nh-d14 is way better, there's no way a single tower is going to compete with a dual tower. NZXT is a mid-range cooler, with similar fans it performed a little better (like a few degrees) than my h50. My nh-d14 was a good 10*c better. You also can't put 3 fans on the havik, which is a crucial reason why dual towers are amazing.

Not saying havik is a bad cooler, at $30 it's an amazing cooler. But it's not top end cooling, it's mid-range.

A 10*C drop from delidding is a very respectable drop in temps. That's about the difference in an nh-d14 and havik ^^. Plus with using only mx-4, that would make sense. I got about 15*c using pk-3, which is a much better paste. I got around a 23*C drop using CLU.

Results vary, I can't imagine only 3-4*C using clu from mx-4. Going from mx-4 ondie and IHS to CLU ondie/IHS has got to result in at least 10*C drop.

It's definitely worth delidding no matter what paste you have. The paste isn't the problem after all, the problem is the gap between the IHS and die that you reduce when you rub off the glue. It isn't worth delidding if your CPU can only do 4.6ghz and temperatures aren't your problem but the stability/quality of the chip is the problem. though, but if your chip can do 4.7+ on less than 1.5v I think it's worth delidding. Really depends on how good your chip is, how much you are pushing it, and if you really need lower temps.

For example I had a terrible ivy that could only do 4.6@1.45+v. It wasn't worth delidding, and temps never were an issue on the overclock I ran on it (settled for something like 4.4@1.33 because the motherboard I ended up putting the chip on couldn't do more than 1.33v). On my current ivy, temps become a problem when lidded as I'm pushing way past 1.3v to really unlock the full potential of a great chip that's clearly capable of over 4.8ghz on less than 1.5v.

If you are only going to do 4.6ghz on your chip, eh, it's not really worth delidding but it's up to you. It's fun to do, some of us enjoy the process of delidding, and running cooler means lower power consumption, and longer chip life. Like I have no problem delidding just a terrible chip on a low overclock because the board can only do 1.33v, because that rig is going to be used for at least 7+ years, why not.

Rationally, I don't think it's worth risking the chip, but then I was confident in delidding and that nothing wrong would happen, I've got a steady hand and love these kinds of things, and the temp drop is just lower power consumption and lower chip life so why not. It's a free 10*C+ temp drop, you have to pay $50+ for those kind of temp drops.
Edited by Belial - 3/3/13 at 10:03pm
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post #13075 of 33562
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

I actually own both the havik 140 and nh-d14 and they are not similar at all. nh-d14 is way better, there's no way a single tower is going to compete with a dual tower. NZXT is a mid-range cooler, with similar fans it performed a little better (like a few degrees) than my h50. My nh-d14 was a good 10*c better. You also can't put 3 fans on the havik, which is a crucial reason why dual towers are amazing.

Not saying havik is a bad cooler, at $30 it's an amazing cooler. But it's not top end cooling, it's mid-range.

A 10*C drop from delidding is a very respectable drop in temps. That's about the difference in an nh-d14 and havik ^^. Plus with using only mx-4, that would make sense. I got about 15*c using pk-3, which is a much better paste. I got around a 23*C drop using CLU.

Results vary, I can't imagine only 3-4*C using clu from mx-4. Going from mx-4 ondie and IHS to CLU ondie/IHS has got to result in at least 10*C drop.

It's definitely worth delidding no matter what paste you have. The paste isn't the problem after all, the problem is the gap between the IHS and die that you reduce when you rub off the glue. It isn't worth delidding if your CPU can only do 4.6ghz and temperatures aren't your problem but the stability/quality of the chip is the problem. though, but if your chip can do 4.7+ on less than 1.5v I think it's worth delidding. Really depends on how good your chip is, how much you are pushing it, and if you really need lower temps.

For example I had a terrible ivy that could only do 4.6@1.45+v. It wasn't worth delidding, and temps never were an issue on the overclock I ran on it (settled for something like 4.4@1.33 because the motherboard I ended up putting the chip on couldn't do more than 1.33v). On my current ivy, temps become a problem when lidded as I'm pushing way past 1.3v to really unlock the full potential of a great chip that's clearly capable of over 4.8ghz on less than 1.5v

from the reviews i've seen they are the same the nh-d14 is like a 2c ~ 0.5c better depending on how hot the processor is

here is a review from overclock3d to support what i'm saying

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuI5NLOpRmo

are you talking about the havik 120 ? because the havik 140 is not 30$ biggrin.gif

it's 61$ now

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146011&Tpk=havik%20140

and i bought it for like 80$ when it was new

my chip currently does 4.4GHz @ 1.25 30 hours prime small ftt stable didn't try other tests, so i guess it could get 4.7~ 4.8 @ 1.40v maybe is that a de-lidding worthy chip ?

also i don't get it what could go when you remove the glue ? and reduce the space between the ihs and the die ?
Edited by invincible20xx - 3/3/13 at 10:24pm
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post #13076 of 33562
You need to look at testing methodology for reviews (frozencpu, hardwaresecrets, and TH are the worst offenders in order but it's rare to find good reviews, vortez, hardocp, xbit, they do good ones from random bits ive seen there's always issues). Most of the time they don't use a modern chip, nor will they overclock it to any significant level.

The profiles of coolers, and pastes, changes dramatically on different levels of cooling. An extreme example is that budget HDT coolers (exposed heatpipe like hyper 212) like the Hyper 212 EVO will out perform custom water cooling, as HDT does extremely well on idle/lower loads and is extremely cheap to make (so good for lower level overclocks, dualcores, and some of the lower end quads) but will never stand up to a regular heatpipe design, and then water cooling specifically is 'bad' at idle and low load. So the Hyper 212 Evo will vary a good 40*C+ on low overclock to a high overclock, while water will never vary +/- 20*c from 50*C no matter what's going on.

I say this, but this is not an exaggeration of what some sites do. For example, Frozencpu tests a THERMAL PLATE at 150w! First off, Ivy Bridge will go above 150w when overclocked (maybe it is only the highest of overclocks, granted, but then nothing else is near as cool running or efficient as ivy bridge, god forbid you run an AMD or sandy or first gen core). But what's really bad about a 150w thermal plate, is that it spreads heat over a large 5cmx5cm square evenly, whereas a CPU emits heat only from a very, very small ~5mm x 30mm die (which is why putting enough paste to cover an entire IHS is actually worse than putting just enough to cover the die and covering only 1/4th the CPU).

This is why the Hyper 212 EVO is considered better than the Silver Arrow and Logisys Assassin on Frozencpu, and why many sites you don't see more than 5*C temp drop from a piece of crap cooler to the highest end cooler.

Another problem with all review sites, is that they will never push the chip far because they try to compare all heatsinks. That sounds nice, but you cannot run an overclock on a stock cooler. So in order to keep the stock cooler and similar cheap radial coolers on the same graph and table as the NH-D14, they run a very small overclock. So you got the stock cooler at 90*C on the table, but then the NH-D14 and Hyper 212 running maybe in the 50s' or 60's. Crank up an overclock where the Hyper 212 Evo is in the 80s, and you'll see a much larger difference between it and other, higher end coolers.

So 1-2*C might sound like a small difference on whatever review site you saw, but I'm willing to bet that the absolute temps were more like 55 vs 57, or 65 vs 67, in which case yea, 1-2*C is actually huge and will magnify to about a 10*C+ difference on a real world overclock.

This is why we care about 1-3*C temp differences in certain things, because it magnifies on a true overclock, especially when you got people in here that are really pushing the boundary and have no problem running over 1.5v for 24/7 overclocks, or are benching and pushing insane voltages.

And i was talking about the NZXT Havik 140. I got 2x 140mm havik fans, yes? I paid $30 for it. I bought it used here on the OCN marketplace. You can check my buyer feedback in my profile to see the listing (i think he listed it at like $50 or something but he had it up for sale for a few weeks with no bites so I offered $25 and we negotiated to $30).

Also you gotta consider sales. Anyone who buys heatsinks at their full price is dumb. Why would you buy the NZXT havik 140 for $61 when, say, the Zalman LQ310, a comparable cooler (midrange is midrange) for $29 on sale right now. In a week the Zalman LQ320 will be back up to $60+, in which case some other mid-range cooler will be $20-30 and that will be what to buy that week.
Quote:
also i don't get it what could go when you remove the glue ? and reduce the space between the ihs and the die ?

When you remove the glue holding the IHS to the PCB of the CPU, it lowers the IHS so it creates a tighter contact to the die. Your heatsink would perform less optimally if it wasn't mounted tight. Same thing.
Quote:
my chip currently does 4.4GHz @ 1.25 30 hours prime small ftt stable didn't try other tests, so i guess it could get 4.7~ 4.8 @ 1.40v maybe is that a de-lidding worthy chip ?

Why even bother testing 4.4ghz? Any sandy/ivy will do 4.5-5ghz on reasonable voltage. You can compare yoru results to others in the ivy bridge stable club:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247869/official-the-ivy-bridge-stable-suicide-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/0_100

1.25v for 4.4 seems about middle of the road compared to the other results. But then again maybe a lot of these guys are running 4.4 because their chips are so bad that they couldn't do 4.6+ on good voltages, I don't know. Maybe they dont have good coolers, they didnt delid, or have a bad motherboard.

i still lol that you ran 30 hours small fft. its okay just run prime95 blend biggrin.gif

But your test of 30 hours of small fft is useless and it doesnt give any insight to how great your chip is. Assuming it could pass 24 hours of blend that seems average compared to other results so maybe you could push more, I don't know.

Here's a few things you can do:
Set your overclock to like 4.5ghz@1.3v. Boot up into windows. Use a software program like gigabyte tweaklauncher, and see how far you can go frequency wise. My bad chips would freeze when i put in around 4.6, 4.7, 4.8ghz. My good chip froze at 5.1ghz. That will give you an idea of how good your chip is. You could talk to others who've done that or ask them to do it if you PM people.

You could also just try to see how far you can overclock on 1.3v. If you are struggling with like 4.5ghz at 1.3, bad chip. If you can do maybe 4.6, 4.7, that's a better chip.

I mean you should really try to push a higher overclock first. I dont know why you are bothering with 1.25v, your cooler should be able to handle a lot more even before a delid.
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post #13077 of 33562
and dear god the nzxt 140mm fans are such crap. The build quality is crap, they are flimsy plastic (like all nzxt fans i suppose). The weird bacon design just makes the fan extremely loud, and they have like this wobble. They shake my case when they are on high speed, I used the noctua low noise adaptor on them (AND put them on a fan controller so I could run them at 40%) because they were so bad.

And they have this terrible quality where when you run them at lower speeds, they wobble and create this terrible sound that isn't as bad when they are on high speed. They are just such insanely loud fans that push relatively little air for 140mm fans. I'm only using them because they should be better than 120mm fans (at least yate loon mediums) but I usually turn them off because they are so loud, even when on low power adaptors.

And the fan mounts nzxt uses on the havik are THE worst fan mounts I've ever dealt with, and I've used a lot of heatsinks. I dont know how you make a mount so terrible, in a few months they get crusty and break apart. Not a big deal, you can always use cable ties which is as good as any mount.

I tried to use my noctua fan clips on them originally, and I had to shave off large chunks on the fan to fit the nh-d14 clips on them. I ended up getting a 3rd noctua fan instead of using the 140mm bacon fan as my 3rd nh-d14 fan though.

As for that video.... that guy ran on stock settings, and he was running on large fft, which doesnt test for temperature at all. Like I said, you really put coolers on a high load chip, and who is in 1st place and who is in 2nd and 3rd will often change. On stock overclocks, the Hyper 212 Evo is technically THE BEST HEATSINK EVER as well as other HDT coolers. Put it on a decent overclock and you get something different, like custom water being #1 and high end coolers being #2.

Also another problem with review sites is they usually compare heatsinks by delta temps done on varying days of the year. It's nice for a quick comparison of a ton of heatsinks but it isn't accurate, as ambient temps have an exponential impact on load temps.

That guy's review went way too long holy crap he talks a lot. I applaud anyone doing that kind of thing, of course, but he's just not really pushing the heatsinks.

edit: and no offense that you paid so much for the havik, I'm talking US prices. Egypt Im sure isn't the same prices lol.
You should pay:
$20 or less for low end coolers (hyper 212, gaia, etc)
$20-40 for midrange
$40-70 for high end

Now the H100 might be on sale once a year for $60-70, or might be only that price on ebay used, but there's 100 other heatsinks that perform within 1-2*C and are basically identical to it in performance. Just as it goes, the Logisys Assassin for the last few months was $39 (it's not as good as the h100, but it's still within 3*c and is the best air cooler). Then last week the Zalman lq320 was $39, which outperforms the H100 and likely outperforms the H100i on apples to apples.

A specific cooler might not be on sale, but one exactly like it always is.

It's not really fair to compare only the nh-d14 with 120/140 vs a nzxt 140/140 either. Slap a 3rd fan on the nh-d14, which you can't do with the havik, or, use just 2x120mm fans on both (or 2x140mm i suppose, since both can use 140s) and see what the results are.

nzxt nh-d14 is definitely on the lower end of high end heatsinks, but it's definitely way better than the nzxt 140. Maybe I should have done a heatsink review, I didn't really bother to because it was apparent as I ran multiple CPUs and overclocks that the havik wasn't in the same league. It's a very capable cooler, like I said, at $20-40 which is all you should pay for a mid-range cooler (in the US, i know prices always vary) it's great.
Edited by Belial - 3/3/13 at 11:04pm
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post #13078 of 33562
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

You need to look at testing methodology for reviews (frozencpu, hardwaresecrets, and TH are the worst offenders in order but it's rare to find good reviews, vortez, hardocp, xbit, they do good ones from random bits ive seen there's always issues). Most of the time they don't use a modern chip, nor will they overclock it to any significant level.

The profiles of coolers, and pastes, changes dramatically on different levels of cooling. An extreme example is that budget HDT coolers (exposed heatpipe like hyper 212) like the Hyper 212 EVO will out perform custom water cooling, as HDT does extremely well on idle/lower loads and is extremely cheap to make (so good for lower level overclocks, dualcores, and some of the lower end quads) but will never stand up to a regular heatpipe design, and then water cooling specifically is 'bad' at idle and low load. So the Hyper 212 Evo will vary a good 40*C+ on low overclock to a high overclock, while water will never vary +/- 20*c from 50*C no matter what's going on.

I say this, but this is not an exaggeration of what some sites do. For example, Frozencpu tests a THERMAL PLATE at 150w! First off, Ivy Bridge will go above 150w when overclocked (maybe it is only the highest of overclocks, granted, but then nothing else is near as cool running or efficient as ivy bridge, god forbid you run an AMD or sandy or first gen core). But what's really bad about a 150w thermal plate, is that it spreads heat over a large 5cmx5cm square evenly, whereas a CPU emits heat only from a very, very small ~5mm x 30mm die (which is why putting enough paste to cover an entire IHS is actually worse than putting just enough to cover the die and covering only 1/4th the CPU).

This is why the Hyper 212 EVO is considered better than the Silver Arrow and Logisys Assassin on Frozencpu, and why many sites you don't see more than 5*C temp drop from a piece of crap cooler to the highest end cooler.

Another problem with all review sites, is that they will never push the chip far because they try to compare all heatsinks. That sounds nice, but you cannot run an overclock on a stock cooler. So in order to keep the stock cooler and similar cheap radial coolers on the same graph and table as the NH-D14, they run a very small overclock. So you got the stock cooler at 90*C on the table, but then the NH-D14 and Hyper 212 running maybe in the 50s' or 60's. Crank up an overclock where the Hyper 212 Evo is in the 80s, and you'll see a much larger difference between it and other, higher end coolers.

So 1-2*C might sound like a small difference on whatever review site you saw, but I'm willing to bet that the absolute temps were more like 55 vs 57, or 65 vs 67, in which case yea, 1-2*C is actually huge and will magnify to about a 10*C+ difference on a real world overclock.

This is why we care about 1-3*C temp differences in certain things, because it magnifies on a true overclock, especially when you got people in here that are really pushing the boundary and have no problem running over 1.5v for 24/7 overclocks, or are benching and pushing insane voltages.

And i was talking about the NZXT Havik 140. I got 2x 140mm havik fans, yes? I paid $30 for it. I bought it used here on the OCN marketplace. You can check my buyer feedback in my profile to see the listing (i think he listed it at like $50 or something but he had it up for sale for a few weeks with no bites so I offered $25 and we negotiated to $30).

Also you gotta consider sales. Anyone who buys heatsinks at their full price is dumb. Why would you buy the NZXT havik 140 for $61 when, say, the Zalman LQ310, a comparable cooler (midrange is midrange) for $29 on sale right now. In a week the Zalman LQ320 will be back up to $60+, in which case some other mid-range cooler will be $20-30 and that will be what to buy that week.
When you remove the glue holding the IHS to the PCB of the CPU, it lowers the IHS so it creates a tighter contact to the die. Your heatsink would perform less optimally if it wasn't mounted tight. Same thing.
Why even bother testing 4.4ghz? Any sandy/ivy will do 4.5-5ghz on reasonable voltage. You can compare yoru results to others in the ivy bridge stable club:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247869/official-the-ivy-bridge-stable-suicide-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/0_100

1.25v for 4.4 seems about middle of the road compared to the other results. But then again maybe a lot of these guys are running 4.4 because their chips are so bad that they couldn't do 4.6+ on good voltages, I don't know. Maybe they dont have good coolers, they didnt delid, or have a bad motherboard.

i still lol that you ran 30 hours small fft. its okay just run prime95 blend biggrin.gif

But your test of 30 hours of small fft is useless and it doesnt give any insight to how great your chip is. Assuming it could pass 24 hours of blend that seems average compared to other results so maybe you could push more, I don't know.

Here's a few things you can do:
Set your overclock to like 4.5ghz@1.3v. Boot up into windows. Use a software program like gigabyte tweaklauncher, and see how far you can go frequency wise. My bad chips would freeze when i put in around 4.6, 4.7, 4.8ghz. My good chip froze at 5.1ghz. That will give you an idea of how good your chip is. You could talk to others who've done that or ask them to do it if you PM people.

You could also just try to see how far you can overclock on 1.3v. If you are struggling with like 4.5ghz at 1.3, bad chip. If you can do maybe 4.6, 4.7, that's a better chip.

I mean you should really try to push a higher overclock first. I dont know why you are bothering with 1.25v, your cooler should be able to handle a lot more even before a delid.

dude aside from your posts being really long and i don't understand most of your points but just don't call me dumb for paying retail price for a heatsink.....

also arn't you the guy who were saying it's ok to run 1.9v on an ivy cpu biggrin.gif

get your facts right, the guy from overclock 3d pushed the 2 coolers to their maximum with an i7 950 @ 4.4 ghz or 4.2 don't really remember and the the gap was 2c at low overclocks and at high overclocks the gap decreased to 0.5 c

also if you got it used for 30$ this doesn't make it a mid-range 30$ cooler, because anybody looking to buy it new will pay retail price which is 60$ now

and i bother testing @ 4.4 GHz because of the temp don't want it to go over 80c max while testing
Edited by invincible20xx - 3/3/13 at 11:11pm
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post #13079 of 33562
Quote:
dude aside from your posts being really long and i don't understand most of your points but just don't call me dumb for paying retail price for a heatsink.....

I apologize, and apologized, as I had written that before seeing the part where you overpaid for a havik.
Quote:
also arn't you the guy who were saying it's ok to run 1.9v on an ivy cpu

arnt you the guy who ;aid $61 for a mid-range cooler biggrin.gif
Quote:
get your facts right, the guy from overclock 3d pushed the 2 coolers to their maximum with an i7 950 @ 4.4 ghz or 4.2 don't really remember and the the gap was 2c at low overclocks and at high overclocks the gap decreased to 0.5 c

So he tests them on totally different days and different ambient temps, he compares a cooler with a 120/140mm fans instead of 2x140mm fans that are blazingly loud, and he tests them on large fft instead of a small fft which results in a 10-20*C lower temperature result.

It's a terrible review. I own both the nh-d14 and havik, I'm using both right now, I can tell you, easily 5-10*c difference on them. His review goes against every other review out there as well. It's not physically possible for a single tower cooler, to perform on the same level as a dual tower with almost twice the surface area (except the very ridiculous hr-02 macho, which still doesnt beat any of the dual towers). No amount of innovation and copper/nickel/silver is going to make one design better than another. It may reduce the gap, but it won't make it better.

The archon is a better heatsink even, and that is still quite a bit behind the nh-d14.
Quote:
also if you got it used for 30$ this doesn't make it a mid-range 30$ cooler, because anybody looking to buy it new will pay retail price which is 60$ now

Right, I'm well aware of what prices might be regularly. It's a mid-range cooler. You should never pay more than $20-40 for a mid-range cooler. The NZXT havik might be only $20-40 once a year on some special newegg shell shocker or used, but there are hundreds of other mid-range coolers with 6 heatpipes, single tower, that are out there, that perform identically, and one of them is on sale, all the time.
Quote:
and i bother testing @ 4.4 GHz because of the temp don't want it to go over 80c max while testing

Maybe you should have gotten a better cooler biggrin.gif

80*C is quite cool, for a max temp really 90-105*C is fine depending on how conservative you are. I had no problem with my havik going over 4.5ghz@1.3v, pretty sure it stayed around 80 as I know I wasn't pushing temps at all.

You can learn something, or you can just get angry and nasty about things, i dont even know why. I'm telling you why that review is terrible and why most reviews in general are terrible. Sorry if that hurts your sensibilities.
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Phillips FW-C250 2 Speaker Set w/3 CD Changer JBL Sub 6 Subwoofer NZXT Sleeved LED Strip 1m Blue NZXT Sentry 2 Fan Controller 
Other
Colonial Blue Paracord Sleeving 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom ii X4 955C2, $31, 5 broken pins, works! ... Biostar A770e3 6.3 Red&Black MSI GTX 460 768mb Twin Frozr II 2 x 2GB Kingston HyperX 1333 OC to 1348CL7@1.65v 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Intel X25-M G2 80GB SSD NH-D14 SE2011 6 x Case Fans (4 x YL-M, NZXT case fan, CM Hype... Jerryrigged Chipset-Northbridge 80mm HSF 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Jerryrigged VRM Heatsink (sawed off stock AM2 h... Hax'd W7 Ultimate 64bit Sanyo DP19640 19"1360x768 Ducky Cherry Browns 10keyless 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Antec Earthwatts 430D NZXT Gamma Steelseries Kinzu Optical Steelseries Blizzcon Diablo 3 
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post #13080 of 33562



turns out whenever i play cs:go i get random crashes at 4.4 and 4.5ghz. At first i thought it was my video card, but after looking at WHEA, it turns out that my computer isn't quite stable. I think it's because that I used a napkin during the delidding process as I've cleaned my chip several times. Static electricity is probably what neutered my chip from being able to overclock beyond a stable 4.5ghz.
Edited by c2thew - 3/4/13 at 12:10am
BlackSabre
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3770k @4.5 Delidded AS Rock z77 Extreme 4 Nvidia 550 TI 1gb Samsung 30nm 16gb (4x4) 2000 10-10-10-28 1T 1.4... 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Kingston Hyper 3k 120gb SSD LG Dvd burner 24x Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO Windows 8 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Shimian QH270 Lite 27" logitech mk710 wireless keyboard and mouse combo Antec BP550 Plus Modular PSU Antec 302 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
logitech mk710 wireless keyboard and mouse combo Gel mousepad Klipsh Promedia 2.1 Plantronics gamecom 780 headset 
OtherOther
Logitech c920 webcam seagate 3tb barracuda hard drives x 2 
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BlackSabre
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3770k @4.5 Delidded AS Rock z77 Extreme 4 Nvidia 550 TI 1gb Samsung 30nm 16gb (4x4) 2000 10-10-10-28 1T 1.4... 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Kingston Hyper 3k 120gb SSD LG Dvd burner 24x Coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO Windows 8 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Shimian QH270 Lite 27" logitech mk710 wireless keyboard and mouse combo Antec BP550 Plus Modular PSU Antec 302 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
logitech mk710 wireless keyboard and mouse combo Gel mousepad Klipsh Promedia 2.1 Plantronics gamecom 780 headset 
OtherOther
Logitech c920 webcam seagate 3tb barracuda hard drives x 2 
  hide details  
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