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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1346

post #13451 of 33567
My delidded 5.0. Not done yet, but coming along.
I guess with the Noctua colors, the red and black of the mobo, green on the gpu, and gold/white on the psu I am not going to win any beauty contests.

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post #13452 of 33567
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

My delidded 5.0. Not done yet, but coming along.
I guess with the Noctua colors, the red and black of the mobo, green on the gpu, and gold/white on the psu I am not going to win any beauty contests.


you got the h220 bro!?
post #13453 of 33567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

you got the h220 bro!?
Two actually. They work fine. All my tests so far put it on par with the H100i as far as just cooling the CPU. The big test will be when I eventually add a rad and cool the gpu.
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post #13454 of 33567
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

Two actually. They work fine. All my tests so far put it on par with the H100i as far as just cooling the CPU. The big test will be when I eventually add a rad and cool the gpu.

Interesting - no better temps than the H100i?
As for the fans, tried switching them, see what happens?
post #13455 of 33567
Guys check these out,

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f136/grosser-wlp-test-inkl-fluessigmetall-761920.html

http://www.radeon3d.org/forum/thread-2067.html

you know i used phobya all the time but don't have clp or clu for comparison.i'll post the results as soon as i get clu and clp. and if you can get phobya lm ,please post the comparison results.
Edited by I_shot - 3/10/13 at 3:09pm
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post #13456 of 33567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

I think you didn't have enough patience man...all you needed was more time to go around the edged - what I think has happened:
You did all the corners, and some sides, but forgot one side - and thus that one side made it feel as if it was soldered on. No matter how hard you try it won't come off, unless you slice that glue.
Then via force, you lodged it on one side, and then damaged your PCB.

Nope. Took around 2 hours to do it. I sliced through the metal it self with the razor. I even broke one of the blades while doing it. Started with a second.

Another thing that happened, is that there was almost no glue actually there. It was extremely little. I am looking at my new chip and it's got way more than the one I messed up. It's thick looking, as opposed to mine not even being visible through the edge.

I sliced through a good bit of the HIS before cutting through.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyW View Post

Sorry to hear that derko. Are you sure it was solder or strong adheasive?

I am not sure. I'll post pics in a bit.
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post #13457 of 33567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Interesting - no better temps than the H100i?
As for the fans, tried switching them, see what happens?
The pump is much stronger so it can handle extra rads and gpus added to the loop. But in just stock configuration it only comes with one 240 rad, and the fin spacing is designed more for quiet than extreme performance. I also am doing tests with the fans set at 1350 rpm or so, and the cooling performance is very similar between the two whether I use stock fans or some NF-P12s I had lying around. I need to order some NF-F12s at some point and test again.

The stock fans of the H100i were too loud in my opinion, the stock H220 ones are not that bad. If you are never going to expand the loop I don't think the H220 is worth the price, and the H100i would do the job. If you want to cool your gpu, then the H220 could be the perfect product, but I won't know for a few weeks when I try to expand it.
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post #13458 of 33567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derko1 View Post

Nope. Took around 2 hours to do it. I sliced through the metal it self with the razor. I even broke one of the blades while doing it. Started with a second.

Another thing that happened, is that there was almost no glue actually there. It was extremely little. I am looking at my new chip and it's got way more than the one I messed up. It's thick looking, as opposed to mine not even being visible through the edge.

I sliced through a good bit of the HIS before cutting through.
I am not sure. I'll post pics in a bit.

Very very odd - again sorry to hear about it brother!
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

The pump is much stronger so it can handle extra rads and gpus added to the loop. But in just stock configuration it only comes with one 240 rad, and the fin spacing is designed more for quiet than extreme performance. I also am doing tests with the fans set at 1350 rpm or so, and the cooling performance is very similar between the two whether I use stock fans or some NF-P12s I had lying around. I need to order some NF-F12s at some point and test again.

The stock fans of the H100i were too loud in my opinion, the stock H220 ones are not that bad. If you are never going to expand the loop I don't think the H220 is worth the price, and the H100i would do the job. If you want to cool your gpu, then the H220 could be the perfect product, but I won't know for a few weeks when I try to expand it.

Great input +rep (you deserve to get more rep to be honest for all the help you've been providing through the forums)
Quote:
Originally Posted by I_shot View Post

Guys check these out,

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f136/grosser-wlp-test-inkl-fluessigmetall-761920.html

http://www.radeon3d.org/forum/thread-2067.html

you know i used phobya all the time but don't have clp or clu for comparison.i'll post the results as soon as i get clu and clp. and if you can get phobya lm ,please post the comparison results.

Very interesting - although what is the composition of the paste?
As others have noted - CLU/P on the IHS has very little difference to other standard pastes out there (ie MX4/2) - but on the die...that's a whole different story.
Edited by Totally Dubbed - 3/10/13 at 3:23pm
post #13459 of 33567
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

Is it where it says alarm temperature in the settings? There is something right near there called alarm .exe I'm not sure what that is either.

Open CoreTemp and then select Overheat Protection from the Options menu.



Check the Enable overheat protection checkbox, select Activate at the specified temperature and enter the temperature you want the shutdown to occur at. Under Shut down options make sure the Enable checkbox is checked, and Power down is selected. You can specify a delay after the temp is exceeded for the PC to shutdown.

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post #13460 of 33567
Quote:
Originally Posted by kesawi View Post

Open CoreTemp and then select Overheat Protection from the Options menu.



Check the Enable overheat protection checkbox, select Activate at the specified temperature and enter the temperature you want the shutdown to occur at. Under Shut down options make sure the Enable checkbox is checked, and Power down is selected. You can specify a delay after the temp is exceeded for the PC to shutdown.


I never knew it could do that - does core temp have to be running in order for it to shut down?
+rep to you sir!
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