Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel CPUs › [Official] Delidded Club / Guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1483

post #14821 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

...this is also a regular topic as that happens a lot:

First, I would get some pressure paper to put between the block and IHS...it will more clearly show the contact patterns

Second, some IHS are curved just a bit (or a bit more than others), ditto for some CPU blocks...try to 'rotate' your block 90 degrees to deal with this concave/convex issue and remount on the IHS (perhaps with pressure paper as a test).

Third, undoubtedly, some folks are going to suggest 'lapping' the IHS and possibly the block...using increasingly finer grid sand paper (eventually up to 3000 if you can get it, i.e. automotive supply stores, though 2000 will do)...this can help as well, but you will remove all the markings of your CPU

Fourth, once you tried the 'rotation method' described above, using MX4 - and a bit more of it - than CL-U/P can also help as it is a bit better in shaping itself into 'cavities'

Finally, the pattern on your pics also suggest that there is a bit of an uneven 'mounting issue' (the 4 bolts that fasten it to the back plate) that may be joining up with the convex/concave items above.

Yea in that picture I just hand tightened the screw until I couldn't tighten them anymore. The block wasn't moving at all but maybe that was a problem? I definetly put the backplate on right. Where can I buy pressure paper? At a hardware store?
post #14822 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

Yea in that picture I just hand tightened the screw until I couldn't tighten them anymore. The block wasn't moving at all but maybe that was a problem? I definetly put the backplate on right. Where can I buy pressure paper? At a hardware store?
One place for paper:
http://www.xoxide.com/contact-and-pressure-paper-for-cpu-contact-testing.html

If the pump was not moving at all when installed, that is what you want. Rotating the pump and trying to install it that way, as well as tightening certain screws first can you get better contact though.
Ivy 5.0
(14 items)
 
Ivy 4.8
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-3770k 5.0 24/7 Maximus V Formula EVGA GTX 690 G.Skill Trident X 2400 (2x8gb) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB Pioneer BD-RW Swiftech H220 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 x NEC 30" Logitech G15 Corsair AX1200 NZXT Switch 810 
MouseAudio
Logitech G9x Logitech G51 
  hide details  
Reply
Ivy 5.0
(14 items)
 
Ivy 4.8
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-3770k 5.0 24/7 Maximus V Formula EVGA GTX 690 G.Skill Trident X 2400 (2x8gb) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB Pioneer BD-RW Swiftech H220 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 x NEC 30" Logitech G15 Corsair AX1200 NZXT Switch 810 
MouseAudio
Logitech G9x Logitech G51 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14823 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

^Agree with all this.
I would just add that I would only lap an IHS as a last resort. Also, I tried every position with two different H100i units. One worked best with one quarter turn to the left, the other worked much better turned a full half turn so it was upside down. You can also tighten the four bolts in different orders to get better contact where you want it. You just have to try and see what works best.

Since we are all delidded we know exactly where the die is, and I have found I get the best temps when concentrating on getting the best contact in that area of the IHS. It would be nice to have perfect contact everywhere, but if you can’t then try to get the best contact over the die.

Damn I was really hoping to be able to put the block on so the corsair logo was able to be read without turning your head haha. I feel like that if I put a pea sizdrop of TIM it will spead evenly. Since I used the pre-applied TIM it did't spread evely, but if I use a pea sized drop the pressure will spread it across the IHS. I'm at work right now so I don't have time to check this message so I hope it made sense.
post #14824 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by homestyle View Post

Ive got my 3570k up to 4.7 with 1.3 vcore.

Max temps during normal operations (gaming, etc) is 75c on the hottest core.

Are these safe temps?

I dont plan on going higher. The only reason to delid would be to get lower temps. Is it worth it?

Up to you man. I would. They are safe temps.
post #14825 of 33641
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icydead View Post

Request for club membership smile.gif

OCN name: Icydead
CPU: i5 3570k
on die-TIM: Coollaboratory Liquid Pro
ihs-TIM: Arctic Cooling MX-2
Mhz gained: 200MHZ (Was able to achieve same OC without delid, but I didnt like the temps so I dropped it to 4.5GHZ)
OC after delid: 4700MHZ
Temp drops: 15-20*C
CPU-Z validation of max OC: http://valid.canardpc.com/2744549
Lapped IHS with 600, 800 and 1200 grit.

Temps etc.



24 hours 20 minutes prime custom blend test stable, no whea errors.

You're In! Slap the Sig on baby! thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

and also to you sir. Hang in there.

Thank you sir.
post #14826 of 33641
RAVAGE THE EARTH
The reason we use Thermal paste is because the top of the cpu cover and the bottom of the heatsink are not perfectly flat and smooth. How to correct that and use minimal Thermal Paste is the objective.
Joa3D43 and justanoldman gave up some solution that hopefully will work, If not: and If the cooler block is flat like my corsair H60 you can greatly increase surface to surface contact by lapping the IHS.

That said after you have tried everything else, other than filling in the a large void with thermal paste. I VOTE FOR LAPPING THE IHS!
I delidded, lapped it, CLU, tightened it down first time done - haven't seen it since; haven't "fixed" it since(see TonicX Motto). The temps tell me I did it right, after all looking to see if it spread right defeats the whole process by introducing air-so that's out on final install, I did use some cheap silicon paste as a test after lapping it. check this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4
justanoldman says clamping the chip assembly down in the socket can bend it, so beware: he know his stuff, but I did not experience that.

I wrapped sand paper around a super-flat piece of beveled glass see: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/13520#post_19492508 This took me almost an hour but i went all the way to flat cooper removing the nickle plating from the entire top surface.
I Lapped the IHS completely flat top and bottom starting with 360 and 400 then 800 finally 1600 sandpaper. I think i could have gone to 2500 or 3000 grit.
btw dont lap the die it is silicon(Glass) or underside of the cover.(i dont see how to make the flat and it would only degrade(scratch) the smooth metal.

while lapping:
1. short back-and-forth action alternating small circular action, finishing with back-and-forth with two finger inside the cover.
2. fine grain lastly- duh
3. mount the paper on a highly,super,ultra flat surface like tempered glass or machined-metal
4. do not let the IHS rock side-to-side
5. take it all the way down to just copper- mine was concave and I needed to get down to the lowest point, i.e. the center
6. optional: lap the bottom of cover ,but not excessively(this increases pressures on die(maybe test with some cheap silicon first)
7. I recommend a stationary sanding surface, but, if you use a sand-block method (not a rubber block it will round the corners and flex to the shape of your cover) place the cover on something that stabize it in place like a paper or cloth.
8. don't get lazy and use motorizered sanders - they are not flat enough - hard to control - too aggressive.
9. control the metal dust- use gloves or wash hand before,during breaks, and after. If you do this process in your computer room, do it on paper so you can just chuck the whole mess.
10. remember your SNIPER training "SLOW IS SMOOTH AND SMOOTH IS FAST"
sniper.gif"SLOW IS SMOOTH AND SMOOTH IS FAST" sniper.gif

Personally i think a good lap job is essential to making the COOL LABORATORY ULTRA fill in the gap between the cpu and the heatsink.
When I was done, I slapped my IHS onto my cooling block and it sounded like a freaken magnet making contact. (do not slide it around laterally in this position - it will scratch)

You can find fine grit sandpaper at home improvement stores, hardware store, woodworking store like ROCKLER woodworking.
wipe the thing of with an achohol swab after, and Im sure your alreadly know about contaminates and static shock dangers.

Nothing to fear- just MOD IT! Take your time and im sure you'll do GREAT!

why not lap it?

1. you may want to resell/return it
2. its flat enough as-is
3. you don't have a super flat surface or the right sand papers
4. voids warrentee- oh ya that shreaded already
5. you have not tried other methods yet - this is the last resort
devil.gifIF IT AINT BROKE THEN YOU DIDN'T OVERCLOCK IT ENOUGHTdevil.gif
just kidding

Edited by TonicX - 7/31/13 at 1:36pm
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel® Core™ i7-3770K Processor - Delidded - Co... P8Z77-M PRO Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 Kingston HyperX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDR... 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Pyro 60GB SATA III 2.5(PP60GS25SSDR) no Hydro Series™ H60 High Performance Liquid CPU C... Windows 8 Professional 64bit 
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
ACER X223W LCD Monitor ACER X223W LCD Monitor ACER X223W LCD Monitor ACER X223W LCD Monitor 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Gaming Keyboard G105: Made for Call of Duty® CORSAIR CX 750 M Modular Power Supply INLAND PS_301 GENERAL ELECTRIC OPTICAL MOUSE 
Mouse PadAudio
Microcenter Mouse Pad  CA 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9400 EP45-UD3LR NVIDIA GeForce GT 240 OCZ  
RAMRAMRAM
OCZ  OCZ  OCZ  
  hide details  
Reply
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel® Core™ i7-3770K Processor - Delidded - Co... P8Z77-M PRO Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 Kingston HyperX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDR... 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Pyro 60GB SATA III 2.5(PP60GS25SSDR) no Hydro Series™ H60 High Performance Liquid CPU C... Windows 8 Professional 64bit 
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
ACER X223W LCD Monitor ACER X223W LCD Monitor ACER X223W LCD Monitor ACER X223W LCD Monitor 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Gaming Keyboard G105: Made for Call of Duty® CORSAIR CX 750 M Modular Power Supply INLAND PS_301 GENERAL ELECTRIC OPTICAL MOUSE 
Mouse PadAudio
Microcenter Mouse Pad  CA 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9400 EP45-UD3LR NVIDIA GeForce GT 240 OCZ  
RAMRAMRAM
OCZ  OCZ  OCZ  
  hide details  
Reply
post #14827 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonicX View Post

RAVAGE THE EARTH
The reason we use Thermal paste is because the top of the cpu cover and the bottom of the heatsink are not perfectly flat and smooth. How to correct that and use minimal Thermal Paste is the objective.
Joa3D43 and justanoldman gave up some solution that hopefully will work, If not: and If the cooler block is flat like my corsair H60 you can greatly increase surface to surface contact by lapping the IHS.

That said after you have tried everything else, other than filling in the a large void with thermal paste. I VOTE FOR LAPPING THE IHS!
I delidded, lapped it, CLU, tightened it down first time done - haven't seen it since; haven't "fixed" it since(see TonicX Motto). The temps tell me I did it right, after all looking to see if it spread right defeats the whole process by introducing air-so that's out on final install, I did use some cheap silicon paste as a test after lapping it. check this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4
justanoldman says clamping the chip assembly down in the socket can bend it, so beware: he know his stuff, but I did not experience that.

I wrapped sand paper around a super-flat piece of beveled glass see: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/13520#post_19492508 This took me almost an hour but i went all the way to flat cooper removing the nickle plating from the entire top surface.
I Lapped the IHS completely flat top and bottom starting with 360 and 400 then 800 finally 1600 sandpaper. I think i could have gone to 2500 or 3000 grit.
btw dont lap the die it is silicon(Glass) or underside of the cover.(i dont see how to make the flat and it would only degrade(scratch) the smooth metal.

while lapping:
1. short back-and-forth action alternating small circular action, finishing with back-and-forth with two finger inside the cover.
2. fine grain lastly- duh
3. mount the paper on a highly,super,ultra flat surface like tempered glass or machined-metal
4. do not let the IHS rock side-to-side
5. take it all the way down to just copper- mine was concave and I needed to get down to the lowest point, i.e. the center
6. optional: lap the bottom of cover ,but not excessively(this increases pressures on die(maybe test with some cheap silicon first)
7. I recommend a stationary sanding surface, but, if you use a sand-block method (not a rubber block it will round the corners and flex to the shape of your cover) place the cover on something that stabize it in place like a paper or cloth.
8. don't get lazy and use motorizered sanders - they are not flat enough - hard to control - too aggressive.
9. control the metal dust- use gloves or wash hand before,during breaks, and after. If you do this process in your computer room, do it on paper so you can just chuck the whole mess.
10. remember your SNIPER training "SLOW IS SMOOTH AND SMOOTH IS FAST"
gunner2.gif"SLOW IS SMOOTH AND SMOOTH IS FAST" gunner.gif

Personally i think a good lap job is essential to making the COOL LABORATORY ULTRA fill in the gap between the cpu and the heatsink.
When I was done, I slapped my IHS onto my cooling block and it sounded like a freaken magnet making contact. (do not slide it around laterally in this position - it will scratch)

You can find fine grit sandpaper at home improvement stores, hardware store, woodworking store like ROCKLER woodworking.
wipe the thing of with an achohol swab after, and Im sure your alreadly know about contaminates and static shock dangers.

Nothing to fear- just MOD IT! Take your time and im sure you'll do GREAT!

why not lap it?

1. you may want to resell/return it
2. its flat enough as-is
3. you don't have a super flat surface or the right sand papers
4. voids warrentee- oh ya that shreaded already
5. you have not tried other methods yet - this is the last resort
devil.gifIF IT AINT BROKE THEN YOU DIDN'T OVERCLOCK IT ENOUGHTdevil.gif
just kidding

Thanks for the detailed guide! I have an IHS from my 3570k delidding failure that I can try it on. I think I'll buy some fine grain sanding paper tonight. So the only place to buy pressure paper is online? They don't sell it at harware stores or any other stores?

REP for you!
post #14828 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

Thanks for the detailed guide! I have an IHS from my 3570k delidding failure that I can try it on. I think I'll buy some fine grain sanding paper tonight. So the only place to buy pressure paper is online? They don't sell it at harware stores or any other stores?

REP for you!
Practice is fine, but I wouldn’t do your real chip yet.
Once you lap it, it is not like you can undo it. If you really want to do it, here is the video I copied to do mine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGSoDPTFTkY
and part 2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtdlE6apex8
Do exactly what he does and use the grits he uses and you will be fine.

If you do lap your IHS then you are supposed to lap your cooler block too, but that voids your warranty. It is also not at all easy to try to lap the cold plate of the H100i unless you take it apart – then you have to worry about spilling any of the coolant. Point being, wait for your actual temps and multiple tries at mounting before lapping. You can always do it later.
Ivy 5.0
(14 items)
 
Ivy 4.8
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-3770k 5.0 24/7 Maximus V Formula EVGA GTX 690 G.Skill Trident X 2400 (2x8gb) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB Pioneer BD-RW Swiftech H220 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 x NEC 30" Logitech G15 Corsair AX1200 NZXT Switch 810 
MouseAudio
Logitech G9x Logitech G51 
  hide details  
Reply
Ivy 5.0
(14 items)
 
Ivy 4.8
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-3770k 5.0 24/7 Maximus V Formula EVGA GTX 690 G.Skill Trident X 2400 (2x8gb) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB Pioneer BD-RW Swiftech H220 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 x NEC 30" Logitech G15 Corsair AX1200 NZXT Switch 810 
MouseAudio
Logitech G9x Logitech G51 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14829 of 33641


Ok... So second delid (razorless method) is done now how do i apply CLU? and is it necessary to clean off the glue off the chip?
Edited by KuuFA - 3/25/13 at 4:18pm
Small wonder.
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
6700k Asus Maximus VIII Impact EVGA 980Ti Classified G.skill Aegis 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
G.skill Aegis Samsung Evo 120gb Toshiba X300 Koolance 380i w/ Various WC goodness! 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows10 pro LG 34uc88-p Dell P2411H Varmilo  
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX750 Phanteks ENTHOO EVOLV ITX Logitech G502 <3 X-Trac Ripper XXL <3 
Audio
Kingston Hyper X Cloud II 
  hide details  
Reply
Small wonder.
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
6700k Asus Maximus VIII Impact EVGA 980Ti Classified G.skill Aegis 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
G.skill Aegis Samsung Evo 120gb Toshiba X300 Koolance 380i w/ Various WC goodness! 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows10 pro LG 34uc88-p Dell P2411H Varmilo  
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX750 Phanteks ENTHOO EVOLV ITX Logitech G502 <3 X-Trac Ripper XXL <3 
Audio
Kingston Hyper X Cloud II 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14830 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuuFA View Post



Ok... So second delid (razorless method) is done now how do i apply CLU? and is it necessary to clean off the glue off the chip?

Whats the razorless method. Do tell.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Intel CPUs
Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel CPUs › [Official] Delidded Club / Guide