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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1503

post #15021 of 33682
Ok guys I'm officially 23 hours in with no errors. I can truly declare that I am stable. Going to start testing 4.9Ghz tonight.
post #15022 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

Sick 5.3ghz tongue.gif

Try not to kill that chip...get dry ice if you want MOAR.

I thought that was a No-No if already delidded?
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post #15023 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by EK_tiborrr View Post

Yes, it took quite a lot of trial and error to get it right tongue.gif
Theory < practice.

When will these be available? http://www.ekwb.com/news/302/19/EK-Water-Blocks-Proud-To-Announce-Partnership-with-SF3D-OC/

I do like the look of the mounting setup, want to try one!
Quote:
Originally Posted by alancsalt View Post

I thought that was a No-No if already delidded?

It will still work, just may not clock as high as it could have pre-delidding.
It's a no-no with liquid metal TIM though.
    
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post #15024 of 33682
@FtW 420: Probably by May 1st.
    
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post #15025 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

Ok guys I'm officially 23 hours in with no errors. I can truly declare that I am stable. Going to start testing 4.9Ghz tonight.

good luck .)
post #15026 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

That is pretty cool! I briefly tried getting the mount right for bare die but always 55 on post, just could not get the right pressure, ended up putting the IHS back on to get it running.
What kinda clocks are you hitting on the 8400? tongue.gif
5.3Ghz not extreme cooled, nice!
But don't kill it!
How will the rig be oriented (upright in a case, flat on the box), & how are you condensate proofing so far?
Remembering one of callsignvega's rigs, he found a pretty foolproof way to make sure the board won't get any water on it, although there wouldn't be any cpu swapping going on after insulating.

The board will stay in its case. For the testing scenario I will just leave the case next to the chiller and plumb into the open case. One idea I had for condensate proofing for bare die setup was to use dragon skin all the way up to the socket (without latch) and then put a thin layer of dielectric grease over the silicon around the die, after that a layer of armaflex or electrical tape carefully stuck to the base of the socket going over the chip and staying parallel with the edge of the die as close as possible without overlapping, pulling it down tight and sticking it to the other side of the socket base, repeat process on other side of the die, then fill in the squares north and south of the die with tape. Any flaws in this? Keep the grease? Throw it out? I will look for Callsignvega's rig. I dont mind leaving this chip in for a while, my next adventure will be haswell or later.

Armaflex on the waterblock to where it keeps a big enough hole for the die to go through and make contact, while being thin enough not to interfere with waterblock to die contact? Is this a flawed method?

My approach:
Dragon Skin FX Pro all over motherboard flush with CPU socket to keep water off of components (front and back)
Armaflex around CPU socket to prevent condensate build up. (front and back)
One of the above mentioned methods for CPU condensate proofing.
Armaflex over every side and top surface of CPU block, applied liberally.
Make wall around video card to prevent dragon skin from running off during application.
Dragonskin on back of GPU first while using eraser to keep holes plugged.
Dragonskin on front of GPU with waterblock mounted, allowing dragon skin to self level its way around the block after plugging the bottom of the waterblock with eraser and pouring in dragon skin through the top, plugging top, level card, allow dragon skin to level and harden. (thank you NoGuru for this suggestion)
Apply armaflex to heatkiller waterblock surface liberally.

Armaflex around every micron of supercooled surface including the chiller reservoir and all the way back to re-entering chiller reservoir. (suction line/cap tube armaflexed as well)

Fire away, but please go easy on me redface.gif
Edited by jdm317 - 3/27/13 at 3:56pm
post #15027 of 33682
If you're going to go the protect rather than dehumidify route (either from a dehumidifier, silica gel, air tight case enclosure filled with nitrogen), then you might as well put everything in mineral oil. At least mineral oil is somewhat cleanable, wheras dragon skil is not.
post #15028 of 33682
I think it was callsignvega's 990x or 3960x rig when he was chilled water cooling, he got everything all installed, tested & ready to go, then with the board flat (case on the side for you in a regular case), he literally poured dragon skin over everything. The entire heatsink was covered with everything around it.
If no air can get at the area that is below the dew point no condensation can happen, so with that method you would just have to insulate the water lines going to & from the chiller & heatsink, pour the dragon skin covering the ends of the water line insulation on the heatsink, & there will be no chance of any water forming up or dripping from the lines in the case area.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

If you're going to go the protect rather than dehumidify route (either from a dehumidifier, silica gel, air tight case enclosure filled with nitrogen), then you might as well put everything in mineral oil. At least mineral oil is somewhat cleanable, wheras dragon skil is not.

Dragon skin is a lot easier to clean than vaseline or mineral oil, literally just have to grab the edge & pull it off, it comes off in a sheet. I've cleaned a dragon skin covered board in less than 10 minutes, good as new & didn't have to wash it in soap & water.
Edited by FtW 420 - 3/27/13 at 4:02pm
    
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post #15029 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm317 View Post

Ill try not to. Have a chiller built and ready for testing on it... Very reluctant because of the condensate proofing. Have everything I need, just having doubts.

Congrats jdm317...1.64v is A LOT on air/water, at least for longer periods of time...I felt guilty dipping into the low 1.5s at 5.3+ (pic below)...but then, it is your chip

...have you considered TEC cooling (example here: http://www.digitalstormonline.com/cryo-tec.asp )...some of those now come with pretty good water barriers

post #15030 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

Dragon skin is a lot easier to clean than vaseline or mineral oil, literally just have to grab the edge & pull it off, it comes off in a sheet. I've cleaned a dragon skin covered board in less than 10 minutes, good as new & didn't have to wash it in soap & water.

What I see happening is you get it flowing underneath components and then forming a U with itself (with the component between the edges of the U), where when you try to pull it off it's going to rip those components off with it.
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