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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1504

post #15031 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm317 View Post

Ill try not to. Have a chiller built and ready for testing on it... Very reluctant because of the condensate proofing. Have everything I need, just having doubts.

You didn't have doubts when pushing 1.64v through it, yet you're afraid of protecting it's life span with better cooling?
Don't worry so much, you won't be disappointed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

That is pretty cool! I briefly tried getting the mount right for bare die but always 55 on post, just could not get the right pressure, ended up putting the IHS back on to get it running.
What kinda clocks are you hitting on the 8400? tongue.gif
5.3Ghz not extreme cooled, nice!
But don't kill it!
How will the rig be oriented (upright in a case, flat on the box), & how are you condensate proofing so far?
Remembering one of callsignvega's rigs, he found a pretty foolproof way to make sure the board won't get any water on it, although there wouldn't be any cpu swapping going on after insulating.

I haven't overclocked it yet...I can't control voltage via software so it's gonna be modded eventually.
I'll wait till I score a 5770 or two (a co worker has a dead and a good one for me) - freebies biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

I think it was callsignvega's 990x or 3960x rig when he was chilled water cooling, he got everything all installed, tested & ready to go, then with the board flat (case on the side for you in a regular case), he literally poured dragon skin over everything. The entire heatsink was covered with everything around it.
If no air can get at the area that is below the dew point no condensation can happen, so with that method you would just have to insulate the water lines going to & from the chiller & heatsink, pour the dragon skin covering the ends of the water line insulation on the heatsink, & there will be no chance of any water forming up or dripping from the lines in the case area.
Dragon skin is a lot easier to clean than vaseline or mineral oil, literally just have to grab the edge & pull it off, it comes off in a sheet. I've cleaned a dragon skin covered board in less than 10 minutes, good as new & didn't have to wash it in soap & water.

I was about to ask what method was that...xD
post #15032 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by EK_tiborrr View Post

@FtW 420: Probably by May 1st.

What about ordering direct from EK's online shop...do you deliver to USA / Canada ? smile.gif
post #15033 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

What I see happening is you get it flowing underneath components and then forming a U with itself (with the component between the edges of the U), where when you try to pull it off it's going to rip those components off with it.

It doesn't, the worst it will do is stick to the thermal pads under the heatsinks on the motherboard mosfets & pull the pads out when the skin it pulled off. This is from covering the bottom of a board, you can see where every component was, but nothing pulls off the board, the skin peels off easily.

    
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post #15034 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

I think it was callsignvega's 990x or 3960x rig when he was chilled water cooling, he got everything all installed, tested & ready to go, then with the board flat (case on the side for you in a regular case), he literally poured dragon skin over everything. The entire heatsink was covered with everything around it.
If no air can get at the area that is below the dew point no condensation can happen, so with that method you would just have to insulate the water lines going to & from the chiller & heatsink, pour the dragon skin covering the ends of the water line insulation on the heatsink, & there will be no chance of any water forming up or dripping from the lines in the case area.
Dragon skin is a lot easier to clean than vaseline or mineral oil, literally just have to grab the edge & pull it off, it comes off in a sheet. I've cleaned a dragon skin covered board in less than 10 minutes, good as new & didn't have to wash it in soap & water.
soap and water on your mobo! wheee.gif
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post #15035 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

You didn't have doubts when pushing 1.64v through it, yet you're afraid of protecting it's life span with better cooling?
Don't worry so much, you won't be disappointed.
I haven't overclocked it yet...I can't control voltage via software so it's gonna be modded eventually.
I'll wait till I score a 5770 or two (a co worker has a dead and a good one for me) - freebies biggrin.gif
I was about to ask what method was that...xD

I'm already used to modding everything from before the 400 series, software voltage is pretty new, everything older needs hardmods.
People still try bios modding, but keep in mind without a voltage controller than can be adjusted with software, voltage in the bios can be changed but it doesn't change the voltage that the gpu actually gets.
Hardmodding all the way! I did my 8400, the zotac card used 50k VRs for the gpu & memory.
    
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post #15036 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilchronic View Post

soap and water on your mobo! wheee.gif

& gpus that were covered in vaseline. My boss though I was weird standing at the the sink last time I was washing 3 mobos & 2 gpus, sticking them in the dishrack after rinsing...
Just have to completely dry them before giving them power again.
    
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post #15037 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

& gpus that were covered in vaseline. My boss though I was weird standing at the the sink last time I was washing 3 mobos & 2 gpus, sticking them in the dishrack after rinsing...
Just have to completely dry them before giving them power again.
lmao thats crazy. never heard of that before
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post #15038 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

...My boss thought I was weird standing at the the sink last time I was washing 3 mobos & 2 gpus, sticking them in the dishrack after rinsing....

...gee, I wonder why he would think that biggrin.gif ...you did this at the company cafeteria ? smile.gif
post #15039 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post


Nice image and thanks for the explanation. Ghost motherboard omgz! smile.gif

Question:

Would a pure silver shim work? At ~2 mm it's just a hair thinner than the stock IHS according to Intel spec (which is around 2.2mm). I'm thinking waterblock -> shim -> die. With no thermal paste between the shim and die since it can be polished perfectly smooth.
post #15040 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

...gee, I wonder why he would think that biggrin.gif ...you did this at the company cafeteria ? smile.gif

Sort of, I live in the house on the property the shop is at, so my kitchen is the company cafeteria.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Nice image and thanks for the explanation. Ghost motherboard omgz! smile.gif

Question:

Would a pure silver shim work? At ~2 mm it's just a hair thinner than the stock IHS according to Intel spec (which is around 2.2mm). I'm thinking waterblock -> shim -> die. With no thermal paste between the shim and die since it can be polished perfectly smooth.

That probably would work well. If it matches the thickness of the IHS the latch could be left on the board, & pure machined flat silver would conduct better than the IHS does.
    
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