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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1505

post #15041 of 33817
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post


Question:

Would a pure silver shim work? At ~2 mm it's just a hair thinner than the stock IHS according to Intel spec (which is around 2.2mm). I'm thinking waterblock -> shim -> die. With no thermal paste between the shim and die since it can be polished perfectly smooth

That probably would work well. If it matches the thickness of the IHS the latch could be left on the board, & pure machined flat silver would conduct better than the IHS does.

Is contact between the substrate and socket a problem? I ask because it's significantly more difficult to delid while leaving the wings of the IHS in tact, vs. completely removing the IHS and allowing pressure from the shim and waterblock do the work.
post #15042 of 33817
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

Sort of, I live in the house on the property the shop is at, so my kitchen is the company cafeteria...

...at least you don't have to worry about high power bills (or weak phases leading to the wall outlets) when you want to push 1.9v at 6 giggles through a LN2-cooled Hexacore at 3 am... not to mention a pile of OC'ed GPUs...I should be able to see the 'glow' from my place when I look East into the Valley...and here I thought it was the first part of the sunrise... biggrin.gif
post #15043 of 33817
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

You didn't have doubts when pushing 1.64v through it, yet you're afraid of protecting it's life span with better cooling?
Don't worry so much, you won't be disappointed.
I haven't overclocked it yet...I can't control voltage via software so it's gonna be modded eventually.
I'll wait till I score a 5770 or two (a co worker has a dead and a good one for me) - freebies biggrin.gif
I was about to ask what method was that...xD


Yes this does seem strange doesnt it? smile.gif

My primary concern is that with all that extra cooling I would overlook an air gap and *zap*. You are right I should stop worrying about it and push forward. Thank you for the encouragement. I have a long couple of work days till the weekend but Im going to finally give it a go on Saturday.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 
I think it was callsignvega's 990x or 3960x rig when he was chilled water cooling, he got everything all installed, tested & ready to go, then with the board flat (case on the side for you in a regular case), he literally poured dragon skin over everything. The entire heatsink was covered with everything around it.
If no air can get at the area that is below the dew point no condensation can happen, so with that method you would just have to insulate the water lines going to & from the chiller & heatsink, pour the dragon skin covering the ends of the water line insulation on the heatsink, & there will be no chance of any water forming up or dripping from the lines in the case area.

Thank you , I will keep that method in mind for sure, sounds like a solid idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by "dr/owned' 
What I see happening is you get it flowing underneath components and then forming a U with itself (with the component between the edges of the U), where when you try to pull it off it's going to rip those components off with it.
Thanks for pointing out concerns. A lot of this has been tested over in the "alternative to eraser" thread. I have seen the mineral oil idea and although its interesting Im gonna step away from that method for this build. I cant leave this Switch 810 all by its lonesome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 
Congrats jdm317...1.64v is A LOT on air/water, at least for longer periods of time...I felt guilty dipping into the low 1.5s at 5.3+ (pic below)...but then, it is your chip

...have you considered TEC cooling (example here: http://www.digitalstormonline.com/cryo-tec.asp )...some of those now come with pretty good water barriers

I wont be keeping it at those clocks for the time being, just wanted to see how far I could go before getting close to tj Max. Thankfully I stayed well within safe temperature while testing with the shop fan window mod. Its getting hot around here so the window mod will be rendered pointless within the next few weeks.

I have looked at TEC cooling but I think I will keep that as my next step in extreme cooling after this chiller. I was able to build the chiller very cheap since the window unit was given to me a couple of years ago, and I no longer needed it.

I appreciate all the responses. I have been wanting to do extreme cooling for a while now, but starting a very large family very early in life put a damper on all of my hobbies for the past six years. Glad im finally getting to dip my toes in the water.
Edited by jdm317 - 3/27/13 at 4:54pm
post #15044 of 33817
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm317 View Post

I have looked at TEC cooling but I think I will keep that as my next step in extreme cooling after this chiller. I was able to build the chiller very cheap since the window unit was given to me a couple of years ago, and I no longer needed it.

I appreciate all the responses. I have been wanting to do extreme cooling for a while now, but starting a very large family very early in life put a damper on all of my hobbies for the past six years. Glad im finally getting to dip my toes in the water.

...don't get us wrong, we just don't want you to end the career of your chip prematurely before the real fun begins...I am glad you are having this discussion here, because I'm more or less in the same boat....per posts yesterday > building up a Rampage EX w/3970X which will 'inherit' the current Ivy-K w-c setup, freeing the MaxVE 3770K for more extreme cooling adventures...I think I might go directly to TEC, but chilled water remains an option and I like to see how you do with that... smile.gif
post #15045 of 33817
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Is contact between the substrate and socket a problem? I ask because it's significantly more difficult to delid while leaving the wings of the IHS in tact, vs. completely removing the IHS and allowing pressure from the shim and waterblock do the work.

I tried to get bare die mounting pressure right for about 15 minutes before giving up. The shim might make it easier to get the pressure right while having better thermal conductivity than the IHS, would have to try it & see.
I do like the new EK bare die mount, takes the guesswork & testing out of it, although I would need a new waterblock for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

...at least you don't have to worry about high power bills (or weak phases leading to the wall outlets) when you want to push 1.9v at 6 giggles through a LN2-cooled Hexacore at 3 am... not to mention a pile of OC'ed GPUs...I should be able to see the 'glow' from my place when I look East into the Valley...and here I thought it was the first part of the sunrise... biggrin.gif

It's an old farmhouse, I don't have to worry about the bills but the outlets leave something to be desired, not enough of them on separate breakers.. I have extension cords running all over the place to get power where I need it.
    
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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post #15046 of 33817
Quote:
Originally Posted by FtW 420 View Post

It's an old farmhouse, I don't have to worry about the bills but the outlets leave something to be desired, not enough of them on separate breakers.. I have extension cords running all over the place to get power where I need it.

...I know smile.gif ...but if it makes you feel any better, I live in a fairly new high-rise condo tower and I also have extension cords running here and there...specifically from the kitchen which has some extra strong phases, for when I do HWBot stuff on Quad-SLI...that pulls well over 1000 watts and dims the lights biggrin.gif
post #15047 of 33817
Tec cooling is nice if you have a decent loop already...not as efficient as a phase unit or a chiller, but it does work.
I always wanted to do that, but didn't find a proper tec for my pentium 4 back then. xD Nor monies for a loop!
post #15048 of 33817
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

Tec cooling is nice if you have a decent loop already...not as efficient as a phase unit or a chiller, but it does work.
I always wanted to do that, but didn't find a proper tec for my pentium 4 back then. xD Nor monies for a loop!

I slapped a 90W TEC I had from another project on my 3770k along with an air cooler. It worked great at idle but under load it got overwhelmed in a hurry rolleyes.gif
post #15049 of 33817
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

Tec cooling is nice if you have a decent loop already...not as efficient as a phase unit or a chiller, but it does work.
I always wanted to do that, but didn't find a proper tec for my pentium 4 back then. xD Nor monies for a loop!

...for sure..I would only use TEC with a strong water loop which is already installed...chilled water still interests me because I am planning on this 'desk computer' which will have four mobos side by side under glass, all running and of course all water-cooled...I have seen a free-standing system for two computers which had interconnected cases and valves whereby you could switch to 'chilled water' just by turning the valve lever, and in the longer run, that's what I would want to incorporate into the 'desk computer' smile.gif
post #15050 of 33817
Hey guys,

I don't know if this has been posted before, but I just saw this video



Is it a viable way to delid? It seems so easy
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