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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1603

post #16021 of 33787
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Uhh no integrated George Foreman grill or Panini press? What about a kegerator?
Glad you got it delidded successfully this time!

You have a rad a res and a pump... when is ur loop gonna be done?
    
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post #16022 of 33787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokies83 View Post

You have a rad a res and a pump... when is ur loop gonna be done?

When I buy an entire loop. Unfortunately I sold those parts a month in a half ago when I was short for bills. frown.gif

I'm voltage limited on this chip, I'm gonna go full water when I can afford a good chip or upgrade my entire platform.
post #16023 of 33787
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

When I buy an entire loop. Unfortunately I sold those parts a month in a half ago when I was short for bills. frown.gif

I'm voltage limited on this chip, I'm gonna go full water when I can afford a good chip or upgrade my entire platform.

Does that include the kegerator and/or george foreman?
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post #16024 of 33787
So I've been thinnking about my loop and I think I'm going to use my old HAF 912 to attach to the Phantom to hold my PSU, SSD's, Opt Drive, Pump, and Fan Controller. That way I will have ample room for my rads. I was thinking about putting the res in there too, but I want to have it in the Phantom because I like how it looks. I will just run tubing from the res through a rubber grommet to the pump in the HAF and then back through a rubber grommet into the 820 and straight to a rad. So should I go through two rads and then to the CPU block and then through another two rads and then to the GPU's? Would that be the best way to efficiently cool? Or should I just run the water through all of the rads and then to the CPU and GPU's? Anyways here is a picture of the HAF next to the Phantom

post #16025 of 33787
If an 820 doesn't have enough room, you should reconsider your plans. Remember, my loop is in an ATX mid tower.

As for order, it only makes a difference at idle. At load, the loop will achieve a consistent water temperature. Also remember that adding more pumps than you need creates excess heat dump into your coolant which will necessitate more rad/raise temps. A single 655 or 35X can easily cope with even 3 koolance/ek blocks (both are high flow) as well as a cpu block and 3 rads.

If you're going to absolutely bring another case into it, just use that case to mount a 3x3 rad. You definitely don't need more than a full tower for your proposed loop. People were cooling quad-sli gtx 590s with loops that fit in full towers....

You can also fit a 240mm rad on the back of the drive cages.
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post #16026 of 33787
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKHunt View Post

If an 820 doesn't have enough room, you should reconsider your plans. Remember, my loop is in an ATX mid tower.

As for order, it only makes a difference at idle. At load, the loop will achieve a consistent water temperature. Also remember that adding more pumps than you need creates excess heat dump into your coolant which will necessitate more rad/raise temps. A single 655 or 35X can easily cope with even 3 koolance/ek blocks (both are high flow) as well as a cpu block and 3 rads.

If you're going to absolutely bring another case into it, just use that case to mount a 3x3 rad. You definitely don't need more than a full tower for your proposed loop. People were cooling quad-sli gtx 590s with loops that fit in full towers....

You can also fit a 240mm rad on the back of the drive cages.

I can definetly fit all that into my Phantom 820, but I really like the look of a case with a water loop that has no optical drive, SSD's, and PSU. Thats why I was thinking of doing something like that. Also I am going to use one good pump for the loop. I don't ever move my case so that is why I was thinking about doing something like that. It's not definite yet though.
Also, I just remembered about how I seen somewhere that you should get a drain adapter or whatever it is called. Where would I put one of those to make it easy to drain my loop?
post #16027 of 33787
At the lowest point. You can be clever about it though. Instead of having my front rad with the ports at the top, since the second card was so low I put the rad ports at the bottom. With nothing else on the bottom, to drain I simply pop off the tube there and it flows right through the mesh floor. That way no ugly t-line.

SSDs can safely be double sided taped to the back of the motherboard tray.
Optical drives are a waste of space these days. Seriously, I haven't missed mine and if I do, its in an external enclosure.
PSUs can be easily and tastefully covered with a false floor. Most who make the water builds you're describing use a psu cover or false floor. It covers the grommets as well which break uniformity.

Even if you dont move your case, the extra work that goes into a more elegant solution is in the end a thousand times more satisfying.
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post #16028 of 33787
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKHunt View Post

PSUs can be easily and tastefully covered with a false floor. Most who make the water builds you're describing use a psu cover or false floor.

Yeah I know I can move my SSD's (I have 3 of them in my rig) and get rid of the the Opt. Drive. It's just the PSU that I'm not sure about. I'm just not sure what to do or how I would go about creating a false floor to match my white Phantom and still look nice. Any idea how I would do that? All I would really need to know is what materials I should use.

This is what I would like to go for:
post #16029 of 33787
LoL ever wonder What the cables of 3 gpus 36 fans 2 fan controllers 3 cath converters 2 Pumps 6 ssds 2 led controllers 3 Cath lights cpu / mb power look like...

When there is just a huge massive amount of wire to deal with and there is really just no where for them to go?

Those other guys will never show u there mess! but the hokie will...






LoL but none can be seen from the front @_@



Edited by Hokies83 - 4/5/13 at 10:05am
    
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post #16030 of 33787
For a false floor basically use sheet steel, a cheap bender, and spray paint. Might take a few cans to find a good color match, but it can be done. If you want to get real fancy and do an entire full-length false floor, you can find various steel meshes for the top and solid sheet steel for the side. It's just a matter of cutting, bending, and painting. Personally, I couldn't be bothered since I'm not staring into my case every day thumb.gif

Hokies, I notice that behind our rear panels bear a striking resemblance....
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