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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1632

post #16311 of 33675
I found virtu completely useless for me...It can't be used with hwbot.
I'm not sure how it would affect input lag if you have 21ms with a Samsung "lightboost" monitor though, might be interesting to try.
post #16312 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

I found virtu completely useless for me...It can't be used with hwbot.
I'm not sure how it would affect input lag if you have 21ms with a Samsung "lightboost" monitor though, might be interesting to try.

...same here - it improves some benches (which is why it is flagged at 3DM11, HWBot and so forth), but in many games I have, it introduced a horrible flicker, loss of some DX 11 features etc...then there is also the $ question - I understand that the base version that comes with many mobos is still free, but updates will now cost extra (I am just going by a thread I read - I haven't used Virtu in ages smile.gif )
post #16313 of 33675
iGPU must have been disabled automatically as there was no effect on temperature at all. I think I'll wait until tomorrow and see what the temps and temp difference are like then. If there is still a difference of around 8°C then I'll reapply the TIM. Although this time I'll spread it on the die rather than putting a blob in the middle.
     
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post #16314 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

I found virtu completely useless for me...It can't be used with hwbot.
I'm not sure how it would affect input lag if you have 21ms with a Samsung "lightboost" monitor though, might be interesting to try.

Agh Virtu gave me so many bugs I uninstalled it so fast and never looked back.
post #16315 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuuFA View Post

Since I have a MVG is it worth it to go MVF? or should I go for Asrock OC formula? only about 20 bucks apart. Looking to get a little higher OC hopefully.

If you aren't happy with the OC you are getting with the MVG I doubt any of the higher models would help. I'm sure they would a little bit and I have no facts to support this, but I would say go for the OC Formula. Or a Gigabyte board (Hokies would be so proud.... (insert crying avatar here).)
post #16316 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

...I think that's not too far from the truth...I have two OC keys for two boards, and it can be a lot of fun, but it's not really meant for 'regular overclocking' (...besides, it took me some time to locate an old PS2 keyboard you need for those in addition to USB keyboards).

...with modern boards that have DIGITAL controls of board parameters, BIOS and Win OC'ing (ie via TurboV in AISuite) is not as different as it once was 'back in the day'...in fact BIOS itself is software (Basic Input Output System)...further, the often-discussed Asus 'Bios bug' is simply proof that BIOS and OS based programs are far more integrated now via digital controls...Ultimately, I still use Bios for 'final oc'ing' after I used Win based TurboV to 'find my range', so to speak.

...in the end, why not try the OC key 'for fun', otherwise you'll always be thinking about it when you see the OC Key laying there smile.gif

Yea I've just heard so many bad things about overclocking in windows that I haven't even tried it, but the OC Key seems a little different than that. I think I will try it out, but I only have a USB keyboard mad.gif Thats wierd that you have to use old technology in order to use this new technology lol. Oh irony....
post #16317 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth View Post

Yea I've just heard so many bad things about overclocking in windows that I haven't even tried it, but the OC Key seems a little different than that. I think I will try it out, but I only have a USB keyboard mad.gif Thats wierd that you have to use old technology in order to use this new technology lol. Oh irony....


...here is a taste, using an MVE - this is what FtW and IvanL go through when they want to check their email biggrin.gif
..no really
post #16318 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott1541 View Post

iGPU must have been disabled automatically as there was no effect on temperature at all. I think I'll wait until tomorrow and see what the temps and temp difference are like then. If there is still a difference of around 8°C then I'll reapply the TIM. Although this time I'll spread it on the die rather than putting a blob in the middle.

...or iGPU just sits on 'auto'...I once had a discussion with FtW about iGPU and watt usage (and thus extra heat in the iGPU section of the CPU)...the differences are minor and you can see them when you run s.th. like CPUID hardware monitor - iGPU 'on' raises idle watt /temps by just a small amount...I checked that with running identical machines (other than adding a vid card to one) in my Virtual Machine which consists of 6x 3770 (non-K, but with VT-D)...same mobo and Bios, same hardware other than the vid card...Of course, it is a bit of a red herring...while your core package might use less juice, the extra vid card still raises your system's overall power consumption...

...you may have already stated this before, but what kind of TIM are you using for your CPU die ? If it is a CL liquid metal product, you should spread it on very, very lightly - like brushing it on for a thin film.
post #16319 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

...or iGPU just sits on 'auto'...I once had a discussion with FtW about iGPU and watt usage (and thus extra heat in the iGPU section of the CPU)...the differences are minor and you can see them when you run s.th. like CPUID hardware monitor - iGPU 'on' raises idle watt /temps by just a small amount...I checked that with running identical machines (other than adding a vid card to one) in my Virtual Machine which consists of 6x 3770 (non-K, but with VT-D)...same mobo and Bios, same hardware other than the vid card...Of course, it is a bit of a red herring...while your core package might use less juice, the extra vid card still raises your system's overall power consumption...

...you may have already stated this before, but what kind of TIM are you using for your CPU die ? If it is a CL liquid metal product, you should spread it on very, very lightly - like brushing it on for a thin film.

Right now I'm using Arctic Cooling MX-4 as I don't have anything from Coollaboratory yet tongue.gif I might not end up getting any for a few weeks, that's why I'm going to reapply the MX-4 for the time being.

Also I lied, my iGPU setting was on auto actually, but now it's on disabled. wink.gif
     
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post #16320 of 33675
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

I was overly careful when delidding both my chip, so I took my time. During that time my hands would tend to sweat, therefore wearing gloves makes perfect sense to be able to handle the chip without having to worry about it or have to clean it all off later. You are correct that my post was incomplete, I used the gloves to avoid sweat/dirt/oil transfer and an anti static wristband (that came with my handy dandy computer builder tool kit) to avoid static. I also made sure to touch something metal a few times to make sure and I did it on a nonconductive surface.

No, no, no, no, no. You used insulated gloves, and a non-conductive surface. There is a reason we use conductive mats on our desks for ESD protection. If you want to wear gloves, use something natural that does not promote the generation of static electricity. The fact you put a band on means nothing if you are wearing an insulator, it just means one side of the capacitor that is your hands is earthed. You want your hands to be conductive, your desk to be conductive and your tools to be conductive. Touching some earthed metal with your insulated gloves is nothing more than superstition. You are discharging that particular spot on your gloves, but there is nothing to conduct any other static to earth.

I know these chips are pretty rugged, and you obviously took some precautions, but please try to understand that the weak links in your protection chain mean it is (a) incomplete, and (b) potentially worse than having no protection at all. Rubber gloves are never good with electronics unless they are conductive ( and for all forms of gloves found by anyone on this board they are _never_ conductive ). If you want to use gloves, use cotton.

Have a read of this : http://www.sony.net/Products/SC-HP/tec/catalog/pdf/chapter4_e_201108.pdf
Edited by fnarfbargle - 4/7/13 at 12:29pm
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