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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1810

post #18091 of 33657
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokies83 View Post

hey now do not blow up my ghetto rig.... biggrin.gif
It survived i ran 5 ghz on it for months @1.38v biggrin.gif
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post #18092 of 33657
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

actual delidding question...

I just de-lidded my i5-3570K no issues it was not the first one I delidded BUT this time I did not really see the results I was expecting.

It seems like I have only taken about 5-7c off the temps. I was hitting around 75 and now I am hitting around 70.

Used CooLabs Ultra and Gelied GC Extreme. I plan on using Indigo Extreme but didn't want to use it up until after I know everything is good to go.

I was using IC Diamond prior to the delidding.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2792709

Think I did something wrong or just live with it?

...in addition to the above responses, also better check concavity of the IHS...non LM products tend to deal with a concave IHS a lot better and can mask a severe case of it

NON LM???

I have a convex water block... The 5noz by Detroit Waterblocks... When I put the Gelied GC Extreme on I use a very thin bead in the center about the length of 2 small grains of rice and maybe just a bit thinner. I then set the waterblock onto it and wiggled it just a little bit once I had tightened it down a tad.

As for the CooLabs I brushed it on as if it was barely there at all. I brushed it onto both the IHS and the die.

I used just the smallest and thinnest layer of silicone RTV imaginable to ensure it would not raise the IHS up enough to separate the lid from the die given how thing the coating of CooLab Ultra was on it.

Are you saying that it is possible that the IHS is no longer concave and therefore is not seating well with my water block? I could believe this especially since the water block is already not flat.

I am hoping this is not an actual IHS to DIE issue and not because it was a pain to do (it was easier than lapping my 920) but instead because I don't think I could have done a better job unless luck played into it.

Let me know if any of what I just said changes anything.

I do not want to lap this processor and if I did I think I would lap it more like a valve (sit it on the water block and spin it back and fourth) since the water block was purposely made convex.
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post #18093 of 33657
Sounds like your application method was good. Maybe you already had a good chip where the TIM wasn't that big of a deal?
post #18094 of 33657
P95 causing a double post with lag....
post #18095 of 33657
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm3nian View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

All chips die eventually biggrin.gif

[insert badass WWII movie quote here]

You need sub zero cooling for those voltages... don't even matter if you get decent temps on water, those tests are pointless because you won't be running it 24/7 at that voltage or be breaking any benchmark records.

The whole point of my exercise is this is a 24/7 setup. And I disagree about temperature not mattering. I'd argue 70C @ 1.6 is probably just as "safe" as 85C and 1.45 which you see a lot of around here with people running H100's. Temperature vs Leakage is an exponential curve with Ivy, and I'm planning on shaving off at least another 15C which will in turn probably allow for even lower voltages = a double win (lower temp and voltage).
post #18096 of 33657
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

NON LM???

I have a convex water block... The 5noz by Detroit Waterblocks... When I put the Gelied GC Extreme on I use a very thin bead in the center about the length of 2 small grains of rice and maybe just a bit thinner. I then set the waterblock onto it and wiggled it just a little bit once I had tightened it down a tad.

As for the CooLabs I brushed it on as if it was barely there at all. I brushed it onto both the IHS and the die.

I used just the smallest and thinnest layer of silicone RTV imaginable to ensure it would not raise the IHS up enough to separate the lid from the die given how thing the coating of CooLab Ultra was on it.

Are you saying that it is possible that the IHS is no longer concave and therefore is not seating well with my water block? I could believe this especially since the water block is already not flat.

I am hoping this is not an actual IHS to DIE issue and not because it was a pain to do (it was easier than lapping my 920) but instead because I don't think I could have done a better job unless luck played into it.

Let me know if any of what I just said changes anything.

I do not want to lap this processor and if I did I think I would lap it more like a valve (sit it on the water block and spin it back and fourth) since the water block was purposely made convex.

...LM = Liquid Metal TIM products such as Coollaboratory (there are other brands)

....some IHS are more concave than others...one thing to test out if after reassembly it shows temps that are higher than expected is to turn the water-block by 90 degrees if you can

..also, LMs are great for heat transfer in non-sub-zero applications, but they are not very good in filling in spaces between concave/convex 'hollows' if there isn't a perfect fit...On both my 3770K and 3970X, the IHS was really concave (far above average)...the water blocks for each had no convexity in one case and not enough in the other application...I ended up lapping the IHS of the 3770K with 600 >>> 2000 grid sand paper, and that did the trick together with CoolLabs Ultra on both the die and IHS

...for the 3970X which has a much bigger IHS, I tried CoolLabs in a thin layer, but temps were higher than they should have been in a very strong w-c loop...when I took it apart again, I noticed the pattern of the concavity via the TIM marks...switched to MX4 and temps dropped by 20 C compared to Coollabs Ultra (normally, MX4 is a few degrees above Coollabs Ultra)...Non LM products such as MX4 are just better to fill the concave/convex space if there isn't a perfect fit, or flat surfaces on both the IHS and wager-block
post #18097 of 33657
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

The whole point of my exercise is this is a 24/7 setup. And I disagree about temperature not mattering. I'd argue 70C @ 1.6 is probably just as "safe" as 85C and 1.45 which you see a lot of around here with people running H100's. Temperature vs Leakage is an exponential curve with Ivy, and I'm planning on shaving off at least another 15C which will in turn probably allow for even lower voltages = a double win (lower temp and voltage).

Thing is the lower vcore cause of lower temps thing only shows up at subzero temps, around -30c or less. I say, forget the whole no condensation thing and mod your chillers into a single or cascade.
post #18098 of 33657
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

......

...LM = Liquid Metal TIM products such as Coollaboratory (there are other brands)

....some IHS are more concave than others...one thing to test out if after reassembly it shows temps that are higher than expected is to turn the water-block by 90 degrees if you can

..also, LMs are great for heat transfer in non-sub-zero applications, but they are not very good in filling in spaces between concave/convex 'hollows' if there isn't a perfect fit...On both my 3770K and 3970X, the IHS was really concave (far above average)...the water blocks for each had no convexity in one case and not enough in the other application...I ended up lapping the IHS of the 3770K with 600 >>> 2000 grid sand paper, and that did the trick together with CoolLabs Ultra on both the die and IHS

...for the 3970X which has a much bigger IHS, I tried CoolLabs in a thin layer, but temps were higher than they should have been in a very strong w-c loop...when I took it apart again, I noticed the pattern of the concavity via the TIM marks...switched to MX4 and temps dropped by 20 C compared to Coollabs Ultra (normally, MX4 is a few degrees above Coollabs Ultra)...Non LM products such as MX4 are just better to fill the concave/convex space if there isn't a perfect fit, or flat surfaces on both the IHS and wager-block

So should I do a straight edge check on the top of the IHS (I am guessing we are talking about the top)?

If I screwed up the internal application I would have seen an increase in temps or odd temps on certain cores right? They all went down and they all got closer just not a big difference at all.

Are these temps expected at this voltage? My water barely gets warm and I know what my tubes and rads feel like when they are really really hot. Also I am looking to the GPU temp as an indication of performance and the GPU temps are either the same or higher which to me if they are indeed higher then that would tell me more heat is getting from the CPU and into the water which is a good thing. The GPU temps are very low IMO GTX670 mid 50s when the CPU is running in place large FFTs and the GPU is being taxed by furmark. GPU is overvolted, overclocked, and over TDPd.

I have Indigo Xtreme... I wanted to make sure everything was good to go before using it... I am not planning on using the LM (thanks for explaining what that was) in between the IHS and the water block but should I give it a shot anyways? I am worried about it stripping the letters off the CPU.

Rotating the block is going to be hella hard work but if all else fails I will do it (require full drain and partial rebuild and different fittings).

The cooling system itself is what I would consider overkill and the temps do not change wether I am running 20% PWM on the PUMP or 100% and the the fans barely matter at all either... I could turn all but one of the 480 rad fans off and maybe 1 or 2 degrees of change with the GPU and CPU.

My goal here was to be able to run 4.5GHz without the CPU Motherboard sensor ever seeing 75c which is maybe 68-72c on the cores. At 75c the PWM signal goes from whatever it is set to (usually the lowest settings) to 100% instantly! Just for the heck of it when I had a 2500K I had all 4000RPM ~200CFM PWM fans but ran them at 20% (very quiet) I have had to remove them because of the annoyance while gaming of them going from 20 to 100 to 20 to 100 back and fourth. The Cooler Master Xcaliburs are not even that much better LOL at almost half the speed. If I can not solve this I am going to have to switch them all to blademasters as those are tolerable at 100% and only ~10-20% slower than xcaliburs. If you are wondering at my odd fan selection well I use what I can get for free or near free and also I have tons of all of those fans so not interested in purchasing any other.


The only good news from this de-lid is before I could not get the PWM to not do this in gaming even at 4.0GHz and at least now I have gotten it to stop doing it too much at 4.4GHz and 1.92v I do not know if I can go lower I am taking it down a few steps at a time.


If these temps sound "decent" or maybe "almost average" then I will be "happy" with my work. If not then I would like to see some change.

In games the GPU never goes above 45c so again my guess is the water isn't even getting that warm.
Edited by givmedew - 5/4/13 at 2:17am
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post #18099 of 33657
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilchronic View Post

It survived i ran 5 ghz on it for months @1.38v biggrin.gif

Ah must be another chip. Thought the chip u sold me was a over locking turd lol.
    
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post #18100 of 33657
Upgrading my i5 3570K to either i7 3770K or 4770K.

Hoping the 4770K has better thermal paste so I won't have to delid it; however if I do get the 3770K which paste do you recommend I delid?
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