Originally Posted by Joa3d43
Originally Posted by givmedew
...LM = Liquid Metal TIM products such as Coollaboratory (there are other brands)
....some IHS are more concave than others...one thing to test out if after reassembly it shows temps that are higher than expected is to turn the water-block by 90 degrees if you can
..also, LMs are great for heat transfer in non-sub-zero applications, but they are not very good in filling in spaces between concave/convex 'hollows' if there isn't a perfect fit...On both my 3770K and 3970X, the IHS was really concave (far above average)...the water blocks for each had no convexity in one case and not enough in the other application...I ended up lapping the IHS of the 3770K with 600 >>> 2000 grid sand paper, and that did the trick together with CoolLabs Ultra on both the die and IHS
...for the 3970X which has a much bigger IHS, I tried CoolLabs in a thin layer, but temps were higher than they should have been in a very strong w-c loop...when I took it apart again, I noticed the pattern of the concavity via the TIM marks...switched to MX4 and temps dropped by 20 C compared to Coollabs Ultra (normally, MX4 is a few degrees above Coollabs Ultra)...Non LM products such as MX4 are just better to fill the concave/convex space if there isn't a perfect fit, or flat surfaces on both the IHS and wager-block
So should I do a straight edge check on the top of the IHS (I am guessing we are talking about the top)?
If I screwed up the internal application I would have seen an increase in temps or odd temps on certain cores right? They all went down and they all got closer just not a big difference at all.
Are these temps expected at this voltage? My water barely gets warm and I know what my tubes and rads feel like when they are really really hot. Also I am looking to the GPU temp as an indication of performance and the GPU temps are either the same or higher which to me if they are indeed higher then that would tell me more heat is getting from the CPU and into the water which is a good thing. The GPU temps are very low IMO GTX670 mid 50s when the CPU is running in place large FFTs and the GPU is being taxed by furmark. GPU is overvolted, overclocked, and over TDPd.
I have Indigo Xtreme... I wanted to make sure everything was good to go before using it... I am not planning on using the LM (thanks for explaining what that was) in between the IHS and the water block but should I give it a shot anyways? I am worried about it stripping the letters off the CPU.
Rotating the block is going to be hella hard work but if all else fails I will do it (require full drain and partial rebuild and different fittings).
The cooling system itself is what I would consider overkill and the temps do not change wether I am running 20% PWM on the PUMP or 100% and the the fans barely matter at all either... I could turn all but one of the 480 rad fans off and maybe 1 or 2 degrees of change with the GPU and CPU.
My goal here was to be able to run 4.5GHz without the CPU Motherboard sensor ever seeing 75c which is maybe 68-72c on the cores. At 75c the PWM signal goes from whatever it is set to (usually the lowest settings) to 100% instantly! Just for the heck of it when I had a 2500K I had all 4000RPM ~200CFM PWM fans but ran them at 20% (very quiet) I have had to remove them because of the annoyance while gaming of them going from 20 to 100 to 20 to 100 back and fourth. The Cooler Master Xcaliburs are not even that much better LOL at almost half the speed. If I can not solve this I am going to have to switch them all to blademasters as those are tolerable at 100% and only ~10-20% slower than xcaliburs. If you are wondering at my odd fan selection well I use what I can get for free or near free and also I have tons of all of those fans so not interested in purchasing any other.
The only good news from this de-lid is before I could not get the PWM to not do this in gaming even at 4.0GHz and at least now I have gotten it to stop doing it too much at 4.4GHz and 1.92v I do not know if I can go lower I am taking it down a few steps at a time.
If these temps sound "decent" or maybe "almost average" then I will be "happy" with my work. If not then I would like to see some change.
In games the GPU never goes above 45c so again my guess is the water isn't even getting that warm.Edited by givmedew - 5/4/13 at 2:17am