Originally Posted by givmedew
So should I do a straight edge check on the top of the IHS (I am guessing we are talking about the top)?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
If I screwed up the internal application I would have seen an increase in temps or odd temps on certain cores right? They all went down and they all got closer just not a big difference at all.
Are these temps expected at this voltage? My water barely gets warm and I know what my tubes and rads feel like when they are really really hot. Also I am looking to the GPU temp as an indication of performance and the GPU temps are either the same or higher which to me if they are indeed higher then that would tell me more heat is getting from the CPU and into the water which is a good thing. The GPU temps are very low IMO GTX670 mid 50s when the CPU is running in place large FFTs and the GPU is being taxed by furmark. GPU is overvolted, overclocked, and over TDPd.
I have Indigo Xtreme... I wanted to make sure everything was good to go before using it... I am not planning on using the LM (thanks for explaining what that was) in between the IHS and the water block but should I give it a shot anyways? I am worried about it stripping the letters off the CPU.
Rotating the block is going to be hella hard work but if all else fails I will do it (require full drain and partial rebuild and different fittings).
The cooling system itself is what I would consider overkill and the temps do not change wether I am running 20% PWM on the PUMP or 100% and the the fans barely matter at all either... I could turn all but one of the 480 rad fans off and maybe 1 or 2 degrees of change with the GPU and CPU.
My goal here was to be able to run 4.5GHz without the CPU Motherboard sensor ever seeing 75c which is maybe 68-72c on the cores. At 75c the PWM signal goes from whatever it is set to (usually the lowest settings) to 100% instantly! Just for the heck of it when I had a 2500K I had all 4000RPM ~200CFM PWM fans but ran them at 20% (very quiet) I have had to remove them because of the annoyance while gaming of them going from 20 to 100 to 20 to 100 back and fourth. The Cooler Master Xcaliburs are not even that much better LOL at almost half the speed. If I can not solve this I am going to have to switch them all to blademasters as those are tolerable at 100% and only ~10-20% slower than xcaliburs. If you are wondering at my odd fan selection well I use what I can get for free or near free and also I have tons of all of those fans so not interested in purchasing any other.
The only good news from this de-lid is before I could not get the PWM to not do this in gaming even at 4.0GHz and at least now I have gotten it to stop doing it too much at 4.4GHz and 1.92v I do not know if I can go lower I am taking it down a few steps at a time.
If these temps sound "decent" or maybe "almost average" then I will be "happy" with my work. If not then I would like to see some change.
In games the GPU never goes above 45c so again my guess is the water isn't even getting that warm
Your temps seem high, but I don’t see that your listed room temp. I am at 1.41v and 5.0 on a 3770k which are usually a little hotter than a 3570k and my 15min 8k Prime95 temps are 68, 71, 70, 66 in a 22.7c room. I just have a H220 with a couple more rads, so it is nothing extreme.
As TD already posted, you could have too little CLU on the die, I know I did that one time. A very thin staining of the underside of the IHS is fine, but on the die it should be a little more than that. If you can get some pressure paper that is best to check how your cooler and IHS meet up, but you can use an easy spreading TIM like AS5.
Put a drop of AS5 in the middle of the IHS then install your cooler, and test temps. Take the cooler off and take pictures of both the IHS and cooler. You can usually tell if there is a problem from the TIM fingerprint on both surfaces. If you redo the TIM on the die, you can take pics of that too. People here can tell if is too much of too little usually.
Checking the shape of your IHS is a very good idea. You can check it with a straight edge (like a good razor blade) and a flashlight. It is better though to check it when it is actually installed in the mobo since the locking mechanism changes the shape slightly.
Originally Posted by HaunteR
Upgrading my i5 3570K to either i7 3770K or 4770K.
Hoping the 4770K has better thermal paste so I won't have to delid it; however if I do get the 3770K which paste do you recommend I delid?
I don’t see the point in going from a 3570k to 3770k with the 4770k around the corner. Just wait and see how it performs and whether it needs delidding or not. As far as TIM goes you need a liquid metal one on the die. Most here use CL Ultra or Pro.
Originally Posted by Valgaur
Alright guys, so in about 5 hours I will be flying to Denver for a family emergency so please, please keep it clean in here.
Hope everything is ok.