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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 1858

post #18571 of 33673
i had that problem when i first installed my ek supreme waterblock, it was on to tight and i was like shoot it wont boot what the heck. lolz wheee.gif , i cant remember what dr debug read but i just loosened the pressure a bit and bam it boot right up
actually i dont think it even gave an error code from being to tight ?
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post #18572 of 33673
Doesn't the top clamp need to come off if you're using direct die? Also unless there is something between the clamp and PCB to add extra depth where the IHS was it won't be holding the chip in place properly, so that could be the problem.
     
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post #18573 of 33673
Thanks for the advice. I hope I haven't killed it just by fiddling around through this whole lmao
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post #18574 of 33673
Do you recommend putting paste on the underside of the water block and on the chip or just the chip?
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post #18575 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by luciddreamer124 View Post

Do you recommend putting paste on the underside of the water block and on the chip or just the chip?
Depends on how much you use and the individual person. If you put any on the waterblock it is just a very thin layer, there shouldn’t be any extra TIM at all. Or you can just put it on the die, people do both.
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post #18576 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

first off unplug you 24pina nd the 8pin of the mobo do a full shut down and leave the rocker on the psu off and unplug the system. Then let it sit for 5-10 mins to get rid of static powa. Then take you mount and put it on VERY gently. it doesnt need much for the mount to be tight against the die. to much pressure and nothing will happen.

let us know whats the outcome and we can keep diagnosing it. thumb.gif

^^^ that's certainly step 1. Usually, when running 'bare die', the CPU latch mechanism is also taken off per those 3 torx screws - by leaving the IHS off but the CPU latch mechanism on, you fundamentally changed the CPU pin alignment / pressure 'depth'... EK does sell a 'bare-die' mounting kit (less than EU 5), and per other comments, it is also possible to do it without that just by trying to find the right 'looseness / tightness ' of the CPU block mount.

Just as an 'interim measure', you might want to carefully wipe off the CL-P and re-apply a bit less if you are worried about the excess amount, than use the IHS, re-assemble after doing what Valgaur suggested and see if it boots...unless there also scratches on the PCB, this should work. ...hope it works out wink.gif
post #18577 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott1541 View Post

Doesn't the top clamp need to come off if you're using direct die? Also unless there is something between the clamp and PCB to add extra depth where the IHS was it won't be holding the chip in place properly, so that could be the problem.

Well I didn't do this. So I have to take off the latch mechanism?
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post #18578 of 33673
Ya I bought the EK mount which is why I'm doing this
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post #18579 of 33673
Quote:
Originally Posted by luciddreamer124 View Post

Well I didn't do this. So I have to take off the latch mechanism?
You have the EK naked Ivy right? Did you read the instructions? Step 1 is removing the latch.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046990884.pdf
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post #18580 of 33673
Check for socket pins meticulously.
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