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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 206

post #2051 of 33548
Quote:
Originally Posted by dalastbmills View Post

Edit: I'm still not 100% about cleaning the die. Is it safe to apply 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to the die itself?

It is , I did with no ill effects.

Just wish my liquid pro would arrive.
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post #2052 of 33548
Quote:
Originally Posted by dalastbmills View Post

My liquid ultra has arrived and will be in my mail box tomorrow!!! Decided to run IBT now and delid my chip now.

Not sure what my ambient temps are, but my PC is setup in my basement so I'm guessing low 70's/high 60's F.

Hottest cores are as follows:

Core 0: 75
Core 1: 83
Core 2: 84
Core 3: 76

3770K -> 4.5GHz @ 1.288-1.304v

I'm going to watch some tutorials and read up on delidding one last time. The next time I start up my PC, I will have a delidded 3770K or a 2600K XD

PS: When testing stability I used IBT very high settings, and I remember getting a much higher Speed (GFlops) for my same clock. I am getting ~98 GFlops for the basic testing while I score 101+ for Very High. Anyone know why??

Edit: I'm still not 100% about cleaning the die. Is it safe to apply 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to the die itself?

 

Sounds like your going to have some fun! Good that your reading up, and take your time.

 

The IBT score will be low with HT enabled. Disable HT in BIOS and then run your IBT and your scores will be higher. Seems IBT does not like HT for some reason....

 

The alcohol is fine for cleaning your PCB and die. I used and use it!

 

Good luck - and we look forward to hearing about how it goes and your new temps!

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post #2053 of 33548
Quote:
Originally Posted by dalastbmills View Post

My liquid ultra has arrived and will be in my mail box tomorrow!!! Decided to run IBT now and delid my chip now.
Not sure what my ambient temps are, but my PC is setup in my basement so I'm guessing low 70's/high 60's F.
Hottest cores are as follows:
Core 0: 75
Core 1: 83
Core 2: 84
Core 3: 76
3770K -> 4.5GHz @ 1.288-1.304v
I'm going to watch some tutorials and read up on delidding one last time. The next time I start up my PC, I will have a delidded 3770K or a 2600K XD
PS: When testing stability I used IBT very high settings, and I remember getting a much higher Speed (GFlops) for my same clock. I am getting ~98 GFlops for the basic testing while I score 101+ for Very High. Anyone know why??
Edit: I'm still not 100% about cleaning the die. Is it safe to apply 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to the die itself?

How interesting, I also need 1.288-1.304V for 4.5GHz, as it stands now at 4.7GHz I need 1.384-1.392V after 2.5 hours on Prime95. I'm about at the max Vcore to where I feel comfortable and I will not attempt anything beyond 1.4V for a 24/7 overclock! Is there another setting I can use to overclock higher without using more Vcore like PLL? This should improve stability, right?

I can't wait until I no longer need the iGPU!
post #2054 of 33548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

How interesting, I also need 1.288-1.304V for 4.5GHz, as it stands now at 4.7GHz I need 1.384-1.392V after 2.5 hours on Prime95. I'm about at the max Vcore to where I feel comfortable and I will not attempt anything beyond 1.4V for a 24/7 overclock! Is there another setting I can use to overclock higher without using more Vcore like PLL? This should improve stability, right?
I can't wait until I no longer need the iGPU!

Even more interesting I also need 1.288V for 4.5 ghz, now i really wanna hear some OCing to 5ghz requirements
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post #2055 of 33548
Quote:
Originally Posted by shremi View Post

Ok so while my bad chip is still priming I decided to go ahead and delid my good one thumb.gif
This time around I approached the process in a different way . First I looked for the easiest corner and once I got inside I never took the blade off again until the ihs came off. This time around a perfect delid not even a single scratch to the pcb .
I think what I did wrong the first time was that I tried to break into all of the corners first and then work on the sides of the ihs and with so much taking out the blade and putting it back inside the pcb scratched a bit as you can see in my pic in an earlier post.
So my advice for anyone who is still trying to figure out how to do this is to walk your way into the first corner and then go from there don't take the blade out until the ihs is out.... This might be a more dangerous way to scratch the die but in my experience it was the best approach .
I can't upload a pic from mi iPad but I'll get one in a few.
5.0 here I come thumb.gifthumb.gif

Hi all, great thread!
shremi> Thx a lot for that how to! What kind of blade are you using?

Do you all put Liquid Pro On die and MX4 on IHS?

Did anyone try to cut the IHS sides, 1-2 mm above the PCB, with a dremel?
That doesn't look that hard and should be riskless.
Plus, the depth of the dremel will remove some metal of the IHS which will be less high. Then, when reinstalled, the IHS will lay directly on the die without any gap between them.
What do you think about it?
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post #2056 of 33548
Quote:
Originally Posted by BaK2BaK View Post

Hi all, great thread!
shremi> Thx a lot for that how to! What kind of blade are you using?
Do you all put Liquid Pro On die and MX4 on IHS?
Did anyone try to cut the IHS sides, 1-2 mm above the PCB, with a dremel?
That doesn't look that hard and should be riskless.
Plus, the depth of the dremel will remove some metal of the IHS which will be less high. Then, when reinstalled, the IHS will lay directly on the die without any gap between them.
What do you think about it?

Hi BaK2BaK smile.gif

most of us use liquid pro/ultra in the die, any other (good) compound will do for ihs/cooler,
i personally did all sides with liquid pro, die, inside ihs, on ihs, base plate cooler, very thin layers,
had a 25C+ temp drop afterwards..and that wasnt even compared with intels tim, but with AS5..

when you delid, and take of all the black adhesive, the ihs will spin freely in the die already,
like you see in my avatar..

no dremel examples yet , well, not that i know off anyways.. you might be the first biggrin.gif

i used this to delid


this seems to work well too,



idontcare over at anand's forum did all the measurements

The math tells us the IHS is sitting on top of the CPU, held aloft and creating a gap some 0.14mm to the PCB.

Now I can verify by eye that a gap between the IHS and the PCB does indeed exist, but it is an extremely small gap (as the number would indicate) and attempts to take a photo detailing the gap is pretty challenging. I took a lot of different pics, varied the lighting, etc, and here is the best I could come up with:


Edited by VonDutch - 11/1/12 at 2:23am
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post #2057 of 33548
Wow, thx a lot for those very interesting pieces of info!

I am a little puzzled with the gap position.
I think I have read somewhere on that thread that the heat problem with Ivy Bridge finally didn't come from the bad quality TIM used by Intel, but from the gap inbetween the die and the IHS that doesn't let the heat spread.
I must be wrong with that according to the idontcare's schema...
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post #2058 of 33548
Quote:
Originally Posted by BaK2BaK View Post

Wow, thx a lot for those very interesting pieces of info!
I am a little puzzled with the gap position.
I think I have read somewhere on that thread that the heat problem with Ivy Bridge finally didn't come from the bad quality TIM used by Intel, but from the gap inbetween the die and the IHS that doesn't let the heat spread.
I must be wrong with that according to the idontcare's schema...

its both,
the delidders "crew" wink.gif proved, that using a very high w/mk tim is the way to go on the die,
intels tim has a w/mk of about 3-4 i think,
compare to liquid pro with 82 w/mk, its a very big difference,

LM Pro = 82w/mK (according to a HWBOT 2008 TIM roundup)
LM Ultra = 32 or 38w/mK (several web sources and post #216 in this thread)
IX = 20w/mK (IX literature)
PK-1 = 10.2w/m -c (frozencpu)
everything else is less

fluxless solder/solder has a w/mk of 40 to 60,
thats even less then CLP see..
i bet even sandy would have temp drops if they where to use CLP on the die,
but its soldered so .. i cant prove that..
Edited by VonDutch - 11/1/12 at 3:19am
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post #2059 of 33548
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

its both
I guess you mean it is both the bad quality TIM and the gap in between the die and the IHS. Right?

If that's the case, how could there be a gap in between the die and the IHS AND a gap in between the the PCB and the IHS. Is the latter levitating? wink.gif
It must be something like that?
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post #2060 of 33548
yeah and the "glue" wouldn't let it sit all the way down. I sanded that lip WAY down. I think the gap was half the problem.
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