Originally Posted by ucantescape1992
Hey guys! Two days ago I posted saying "YOLO, going in the vice now". Within 5 minutes of posting that I was done.
I have some tips for and info on the vice method for people who have never done it, or are still afraid of this method. For the record, I successfully delided my 3770K with a THICK box cutting razor. There was not a scratch on the PCB, and it took me all of 5 minutes. I'll admit I was careless, but I'm damn good with my hands.
Onto the vice method!
For those that don't want to buy a Vice, or think that the razor method is cheaper and safer, THINK AGAIN! Two days ago I bought a 4" Drill Press Vice from Lowe's for $19. The Part number is BV-DP40. This is probably the best vice for the job. And for all you people who don't want to drop $20 on a vice just to delid, Lowe's has a 90 day return policy! I don't feel guilty about returning the vice because: 1. The box is in perfect condition, 2. The vice jaws were covered in blue painters tape to protect both the jaws, and my IHS, and 3. The vice has not a scratch on it, and was never bolted to a bench/ table. So after you're done, return it! That's a free delid folks.
Here's the vice I used. It's 30 on amazon, but only $19 at Lowe's! And at Lowe's you have 90 days to return it.
Onward. Here's how I positioned the vice. The operation was completed on my kitchen counter. I have a board underneath the vice to protect my counter, and a board held vertically behind the vice that serves two purposes. 1: To protect my kitchen counter molding, and 2: To give the vice a solid backing, since all of the force will be directed that way.
With this setup, the vice will not move, and will be just as secure as if it were bolted to a work bench.
Now for the positioning of the IHS in the vice. I haven't seen this discussed much so I'll add my suggestion for how it should be placed. For Haswell, secure the IHS in the vice so that the VRM side is facing you, meaning you will be hitting the VRM side with your block.
Why? Because this minimizes the risk of both the VRM's and the Die itself from hitting anything after it is free of the IHS. Take a look in my pictures at the layout of the 4770k after I crack it open. You'll see that the side of the chip which has the most clearance between the die and the edge of the PCB or IHS is the side opposite that of the VRM side. You want to hit the VRM side because once your chip is free it will move forward, and when oriented this way your VRM's and die are furthest from the threats they are approaching. For Ivy, just make sure your vice is clamping the flanged sides of the IHS, this will allow the most safety clearance for the die. Phew that was a lengthy explanation for such a simple concept. Here's an example of how a 4770K/4670K should be clamped.Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Now for what material your hitting block should be made of. PINE. That's it, no other woods, don't even think about it. Pine is soft enough to not damage the PCB, yet strong enough to break the seal easily. Use a section of 2x4 (Two by Four) with nice square edges. I'd recommend a length no shorter than 8", and no longer than 14". The shorter the block, the less force it can absorb meaning the PCB will take more brute force. Too long, and it may become difficult to hold and control.
Now hold the block, with its clean flat and square side, directly parallel to the PCB. Apply pressure towards the PCB with your hand, this eliminates the chance of the block slipping off, or a slapping effect on the PCB which we DO NOT WANT.
Hit the thing, hard. However technique is also involved in this stage. When you're hitting a nail, you swing hard and follow through; the point being to drive the nail with the follow through of your hammer's blow. This isn't the type of swing you want. We want concise yet powerful taps, no follow through. If you hit the PCB with a full blown nail driving follow through, you'll send it flying. Bad. So to reiterate: Strong, yet controlled and concise hits. Your PCB should be free in a few hits, and it shouldn't even go flying if you follow this technique. When I did mine, the PCB broke free and rested right on top on the IHS, no drama whatsoever.Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
After the PCB was free I inspected the edge that was hit. It was immaculate, not even a micro-scratch or dent to be seen. My block of wood (2x4 cut in half laying in my garage, PINE) took all the force. You can see here how the block fared afterwards. This proves that the PCB is much stronger than pine.Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
As for cleaning off the glue, I've heard some people complain saying it's hard to get off. >_> Get real. Use the corner of a credit card and scrape it off. Scrape as hard as you want, I promise you the plastic your card is made of WILL NOT scratch the PCB, even if you tried.
In conclusion, I've done both methods. Use a vice. It's safer, its faster, and it can even be cheaper if you have no qualms about returning your $20 vice.
Hope this post wan't too long, and that it helps some of you out. Happy deliding. I'll post my results and validation here in a few minutes.