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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 2474

post #24731 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by veedubfreak View Post

Honestly, the amount of force it takes to remove the lid using a hammer is very very light. I clamped the lid and just kind of tapped the wood block 3 times and off it came.

They sound equally easy. I worry about the vice method with the wood in that i feel squeezing the ihs like that may make it convex and lessen the contact area with your clu.
post #24732 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by veedubfreak View Post

Honestly, the amount of force it takes to remove the lid using a hammer is very very light. I clamped the lid and just kind of tapped the wood block 3 times and off it came.

Its the shearing of the glue which makes both methods very easy. I personally think the vice only method is superior, it offers much more control and less tools is always nice.
post #24733 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by chronicfx View Post

They sound equally easy. I worry about the vice method with the wood in that i feel squeezing the ihs like that may make it convex and lessen the contact area with your clu.

Didn't think about that. But I only clamped the lid tight enough that it wouldn't move. Another thing to look at is just how thick the actual heat spreader is. It's quite a bit thicker than I was expecting it to be. You'd have to clamp it down reaaaly hard to deform it.
post #24734 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by moccor View Post

What about using a AIO water cooler without the IHS?
To a degree, it's the same issue, none of the AIO coolers have hold down brackets that are rigid enough to keep the cold plate perfectly parallel to the die, so you still run the same risks, but to a slightly lesser degree.

Naked die has almost always been reserved for custom liquid loops for those reasons.
post #24735 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

To a degree, it's the same issue, none of the AIO coolers have hold down brackets that are rigid enough to keep the cold plate perfectly parallel to the die, so you still run the same risks, but to a slightly lesser degree.

Naked die has almost always been reserved for custom liquid loops for those reasons.

That's what I had thought. Hopefully when MSI releases their new motherboards, they will offer to sell, even if as 'replacements' their DIE-protection thing. Because it's so much less of a pain to simply delid rather than to lap the IHS
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post #24736 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by chronicfx View Post

Found the video of delidding by squeezing in a vice. Looks like the way to go. Hopefully the glue is never strong enough to bend the pcb. I am debating to hold off a month for devils canyon though. Seems like it could be a smart move.

I watched carefully and it did not flex any at all. I was terrified it may, but nothing in the end. Well worth the time. It took longer to find the parts that it did to use the method and completely remove it.
Edited by Scarlet-Tech - 4/11/14 at 8:35pm
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post #24737 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jugurnot View Post

Its the shearing of the glue which makes both methods very easy. I personally think the vice only method is superior, it offers much more control and less tools is always nice.

I agree with the vice method being superior, as with the hammer, even after the glue releases, you have to account for the force already put into the piece of wood moving over the chip and possibly allowing the IHS to hit the Die.. with the vice only method, the moment it pops, nothing has really moved as there is no where for it to go, really. It just breaks the glue and sits there. I was amazed at the ease and simplicity.
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post #24738 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post


[/I][/SPOILER]

Would you like to include a new video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL1aRBCmwMM This is the vice only method.
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post #24739 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet-Tech View Post

I agree with the vice method being superior, as with the hammer, even after the glue releases, you have to account for the force already put into the piece of wood moving over the chip and possibly allowing the IHS to hit the Die.. with the vice only method, the moment it pops, nothing has really moved as there is no where for it to go, really. It just breaks the glue and sits there. I was amazed at the ease and simplicity.

When I was using the vice + block + hammer method on my 3570k, I gradually increased the force of the hits and the IHS did not fully come off for me. The last bit of glue I separated by hand (by pulling on the PCB). I don't know if I was lucky or anyone can do it like that if being careful.
post #24740 of 33685
Quote:
Originally Posted by deepor View Post

When I was using the vice + block + hammer method on my 3570k, I gradually increased the force of the hits and the IHS did not fully come off for me. The last bit of glue I separated by hand. I don't know if I was lucky or anyone can do it like that if being careful.

My lid didn't completely come off either, all the glue separated though. Watch videos on YouTube and you can hear the IHS fly sometimes. I would rather take the less risky option and feel safe. It took my 4 hits the first time with increasing pressure on each hit, but it only took half a turn total with the vice, and it leaves no stored energy/motion.
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