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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 2478

post #24771 of 33648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet-Tech View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by arrow0309 View Post

My bad
I thought he was talking about the die/ihs contact doh.gif

So, do you guys still recommend the razor delid over the vice & hammer method? smile.gif

Vice Method. I posted this a few days ago, so take a look.. 3 minutes of your life, and no hammers or razors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL1aRBCmwMM

+Rep!
Excellent work, I can't wait to have it done on my new 3770K thumb.gif
Now I'll only have to wait for the CLU
One question, how did you aligned the ihs on the vice?
Or it doesn't matter at all?
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post #24772 of 33648
Quote:
Originally Posted by arrow0309 View Post

My bad
I thought he was talking about the die/ihs contact doh.gif

smile.gif

I was referring to using standard TIM between the Die and IHS, in my system, with GC-Extreme between the Die and IHS, the temps are 2c warmer at both idle and full burn versus the exact same setup, but using CLP. The temp drop was so small, I even cleaned and reapplied with CLU this time, figuring I didn't do it correct. Nope, same exact temp as previous install.

You get a larger temp difference just doing the delid and removing the IHS glue and reapplying a good TIM than you do using the CLU/CLP in place of a standard TIM.

And as I stated before, since the temp difference is so tiny, it's a waste IMHO to go through the hassle of CLU/CLP when it's such a small gain, and costs so much. And, I don't need to worry about if a block or cooler is gonna get screwed up.
Edited by Jimhans1 - 4/18/14 at 8:55am
post #24773 of 33648
Quote:
Originally Posted by arrow0309 View Post

+Rep!
Excellent work, I can't wait to have it done on my new 3770K thumb.gif
Now I'll only have to wait for the CLU
One question, how did you aligned the ihs on the vice?
Or it doesn't matter at all?

The PCB was against the light socket cover, so that it had a fully flat surface.

The tabs on the side of the IHS is where the the vice should touch, making sure the other side of the PCB will go over the vice itself. The spot that the vice should touch is pointed out here:


I just left the square (another full flat surface) rest against the IHS right where the prongs touch.

Someone else mentioned the idea prior. I just made a video as I needed/wanted to delid again. I will continue the trend if I can.
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post #24774 of 33648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet-Tech View Post

So, I decided to clean up the lines in Big Brother, and reroute some of the stuff while replacing a reservoir... As I got to the block, where I had installed small filter (it was worthless), I decided to do away with said filter. After I pulled the tubes, I decided to pull the block (Ek Supremacy with "In" centered and "out" at the top. I wanted to rotate it 90 to the right, and have in and out where they were originally meant for, so that the water would flow across the die as designed rather than bottom to top.

So, let's not forget that I put CLLP on the die and mounted the block to the nekkid die. As I get it off the mounts, I turn it over, grab a damp paper towel that I had used to block water from dropping, and just wipe the CLLP off.... Nothing left except a tiny dark spot....



I immediately thought, "with what everyone says, that can't be right", so I grab the CPU and give it a wipe, carefully, and the CLLP is gone...



Did I just get lucky or something? I thought it was going to be hard to get off, or "nearly impossible"

Temps maxed out at 51 on the hottest core... Ha, that is another 10 off the top while Crunching. I need to run it under Prime or something to see how hot it really gets. Before the task today, it was running 64, lol.

No, you didn't get lucky, the die has always been easy to clean the Coolabs off of, it will either wipe off, or flake off with a fingernail. And the block is nickel plated, so you shouldn't have had an issue there, which you didn't.

It's bare copper that Coolabs has had various issues with, from just minor pitting, to heavy pitting/bonding/staining with.
post #24775 of 33648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by arrow0309 View Post

My bad
I thought he was talking about the die/ihs contact doh.gif

smile.gif

I was referring to using standard TIM between the Die and IHS, in my system, with GC-Extreme between the Die and IHS, the temps are 2c warmer at both idle and full burn versus the exact same setup, but using CLP. The temp drop was so small, I even cleaned and reapplied the CLP figuring I didn't do it correct. Nope, same exact temp as previous install.

You get a larger temp difference just doing the delid and removing the IHS glue and reapplying a good TIM than you do using the CLU/CLP in place of a standard TIM.

And as I stated before, since the temp difference is so tiny, it's a waste IMHO to go through the hassle of CLU/CLP when it's such a small gain, and costs so much. And, I don't need to worry about if a block or cooler is gonna get screwed up.

Wow, that's nice!
Then I did got what you meant, right now I'm seriously considering the GC-Extreme use both inside and outside the cpu thumb.gif


@Scarlet-Tech
Just wondering, won't you risk anything like the bending of the ihs with the hammerless vice method? confused.gif
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post #24776 of 33648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

No, you didn't get lucky, the die has always been easy to clean the Coolabs off of, it will either wipe off, or flake off with a fingernail. And the block is nickel plated, so you shouldn't have had an issue there, which you didn't.

It's bare copper that Coolabs has had various issues with, from just minor pitting, to heavy pitting/bonding/staining with.

Ok, I had just been warned prior to putting it on the the block that I shouldn't because it would be hard to get off. Good stuff, thanks for the info.
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post #24777 of 33648
Quote:
Originally Posted by arrow0309 View Post

Wow, that's nice!
Then I did got what you meant, seriously considering the GC-Extreme use both inside and outside the cpu thumb.gif

@Scarlet-Tech

Just wondering, won't you risk anything like the bending of the ihs with the hammerless vice method? confused.gif

Not if you use flat surface. The IHS is too thick to bend with the minimal amount of pressure actually needed. The part that had me nervous was bending the PBC itself, as the pressure seemed like it would be uneven, but it didnt even flex in the tiniest bit.
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post #24778 of 33648
Just finished delidding my E7200.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1483439/core-2-duo-e7200-delid

Haven't run it yet, but I'm excited biggrin.gif
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post #24779 of 33648
So after getting my new motherboard, I can get a 4.5GHZ OC on my 4670k at 1.17 volts, but it gets a bit toasty with my 212 EVO at 87C with an ambient of 22C. Do you think it's worth delidding before I get the rest of my custom loop in?
 
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post #24780 of 33648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Levelog View Post

So after getting my new motherboard, I can get a 4.5GHZ OC on my 4670k at 1.17 volts, but it gets a bit toasty with my 212 EVO at 87C with an ambient of 22C. Do you think it's worth delidding before I get the rest of my custom loop in?

My E7200 was pretty easy. I wouldn't be too worried about trying it on a 4670k. If you have some old CPU that can do it lying around I would highly suggest practicing on that, and using it to find the easiest method, then you'll be set to do it to your more expensive i5.
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