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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 2493

post #24921 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by rustypixel View Post

Ouch. Hope things work out for you. If you ever feel like trying it again I'd recommend the razor blade method. Using 6 new blades it took me literally less than 4 minutes. I'm as much a noob as anyone can be and it was super easy. Good luck.

Thanks just ordered a new chip it will be here Saturday. Lol funny you said something you were one of the people I was reading about and how they did it. Well that makes me feel better a little. Thanks I feel like I'm gonna need the luck
post #24922 of 33682
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon720 View Post

Thanks just ordered a new chip it will be here Saturday. Lol funny you said something you were one of the people I was reading about and how they did it. Well that makes me feel better a little. Thanks I feel like I'm gonna need the luck

don't rush things in all seriousness. as being one of the first people doing this I took 4 hours to plan everything discharge every few minutes with gloves and just care as well as making the pcb perfectly clean as well as the pads. thumb.gif
post #24923 of 33682
I had a shaky ghetto vice, and that actually messed up my first two Delids



then I ran into skyn3ts guide to use two blocks of wood instead, and since then I've delidded 3 total no problem, two for me one for my cousin, here's a link on how he did it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415190/guide-i7-3770k-4770k-gets-lapped-delidded

I didn't lap them incase of rma issues, but I have gotten the usual 20c decrease, just using gelid aswell, I did just get some clu in today, which I need to try, but with gelid I'm doing better than I expected

Which reminds me... Does anyone have a guide for Clu application?
Both between the die and IHS, and secondly a guide for naked die application using Ek naked haswell kit
Edited by Jeronbernal - 5/15/14 at 11:40pm
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post #24924 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by wgoldingful View Post

Out of interest, would regular thermal paste act as an adhesive?

Also, does CLP need time to set after applying?

I used Permatex Black Silicon adhesive to glue the IHS back on my haswell cpu. It is similar stuff to the Intel glue.

I used CLP on the die and my case is upright , and I didnt want the IHS to move around when placing cpu into bracket and locking it down. So to avoid all that I glued IHS back on after apllying CLP to die and under IHS. Then left it for 15-20 mins so it was mostly dry then installed cpu. I didnt want it to completely dry as I wanted the cpu bracket to push down the IHS to the pcb as much as possible. You dont need much, I placed 4 small drops in each corner.

This is the stuff I used:


Edited by Anth Seebel - 5/15/14 at 11:48pm
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post #24925 of 33682
CLU/CLP does not need time to cure.

Black epoxy tends to be the generally accepted type of adhesive that people use to reglue their IHS back onto the die.

For CLP, use about a quarter or half of a rice grain on the die. Don't use too much or else it will actually hinder performance. You want it to cover the die but just enough to actually cover it. It is only there to fill in the miniscule imperfections on the glass on top of the die and the belly of the IHS. smile.gif

I'm bored.
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post #24926 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon720 View Post

Well been reading this thread for a bit. . A few pages back I saw a vice only method and decided to try it. My vice can kinda move, which is why the vice and hammer ended up not working as well. Well after anxiety sweat I tightened the vice slowly anticipating the pop....well I heard a pop the edge of the pcb bent/snapped not all the way through, like the top layer did.Im pretty sure it's dead lol. I dunno how well the intel protection plan it can't be that good to take this back. I guess I have a practice chip now. I knew I shoulda tried the razor blade method first since I'm pretty good with them. My super sweaty hands was kinda deterring me. Kinda ****ty no way can I wait for devils canyon but buying a haswell now and overnighting it kinda sucks. I'm just praying that maybe ill get lucky enough to hit the silicon lottery thumb.gif

Sorry to hear that. Can you post pictures of the aftermath so others can see?
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post #24927 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swag View Post

CLU/CLP does not need time to cure.

Black epoxy tends to be the generally accepted type of adhesive that people use to reglue their IHS back onto the die.

For CLP, use about a quarter or half of a rice grain on the die. Don't use too much or else it will actually hinder performance. You want it to cover the die but just enough to actually cover it. It is only there to fill in the miniscule imperfections on the glass on top of the die and the belly of the IHS. smile.gif

I'm bored.

Should I spread the CLU on the die?
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post #24928 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeronbernal View Post

Should I spread the CLU on the die?
yes as thin as you can get it. Spread it on ihs too. Just be sure to protect the vrm area to the left of the die. I used clear finernail polish.



Good luck.
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post #24929 of 33682
Yes, you definitely spread the CLU/CLP. They will NOT spread by themselves from gravity!

And as Wirerat indicated, you have to protect those little bumps on the side of the die on Haswells. If you link them with a bit of CLU/CLP, you're going to have a dead CPU in a few seconds as death runs through them. smile.gif
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post #24930 of 33682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

don't rush things in all seriousness. as being one of the first people doing this I took 4 hours to plan everything discharge every few minutes with gloves and just care as well as making the pcb perfectly clean as well as the pads. thumb.gif
Yea good advice. I thought I planned enough maybe not. I have a grounding mat too all hooked up, how well they really work in real world applications i guess ill find out. I kinda know what went wrong and shoulda backed out... my own fault obviously. Wasnt sure how hard this thing is really stuck on. I had a metal ruler straight edge against the pcb like in the video a few pages back where he uses just a vice. Mine kept creeping up, so I kept readjusting I figured the ihs would pop off first before a layer of the pcb could crack, but that slight angle is what did it. Never broke a pcb like that wasnt sure what to expect. For the razor method the blades are the utility knife ones that are shorter at the top and longer at the bottom where its sharp. Hope so cause thoes are the ones I bought
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeronbernal View Post

I had a shaky ghetto vice, and that actually messed up my first two Delids

then I ran into skyn3ts guide to use two blocks of wood instead, and since then I've delidded 3 total no problem, two for me one for my cousin, here's a link on how he did it
http://www.overclock.net/t/1415190/guide-i7-3770k-4770k-gets-lapped-delidded
I didn't lap them incase of rma issues, but I have gotten the usual 20c decrease, just using gelid aswell, I did just get some clu in today, which I need to try, but with gelid I'm doing better than I expected
Which reminds me... Does anyone have a guide for Clu application?
Both between the die and IHS, and secondly a guide for naked die application using Ek naked haswell kit
Thanks ill check that out. Yea the vice i had sucks to the table, which worked supringly well, I wasnt about to drill in my brand new ikea desk. The vice part though had a collar that loosend and allowed the vice to swivel and pivot then tightend back down. The vice clamp part also had rubber protectors and thoes slid off, and underneath was smooth metal. I figured no teeth was great. Maybe the collar wasnt tight enough when i hit it with the board and hammer it gave a little bit... No good. I know clp and clu aplly differently. Ive always used the ultra and it comes with brushes to brush on, which totally goes against everything ive done with paste(grain of rice method). A little bit goes a long way it seems too. I own the ek direct die kit. I was under the impression it didnt give much if any improvement the ihs helped transfer heat off the small die. Granted it would seem as long as the waterblock was larger than the ihs whats the difference. One less material to transfer heat through seems like it would be more efficient. If you have the supremecy block tighting it down to get even pressure on the die as not to crack it seems easier on it. Id just tightened down the screws in a criss cross half turn increments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet-Tech View Post

Sorry to hear that. Can you post pictures of the aftermath so others can see?
Yea, might as well have others learn from my mistake wink.gif Im at work so when i get home ill take em and post em. To think this started with adding a pump to fix my trifire 290x in parallel temp issues i was having. There goes my caselab case budget. Im starting to outgrow my corsair 540.
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