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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 259

post #2581 of 33842
LOL. After my $30 purchase you tell me what I have is fine.. Anyways I am still gonna go through with the plan, I am now absolutely drawn to the cool reflow procedure.
post #2582 of 33842
Give it a go! tongue.gif
Post back with results...
post #2583 of 33842
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

I'll give bare die a try with Liquid pro...I don't trust my IHS nor my fingers, don't wanna kill my MVG lol


i wouldnt advice doing that if you have a aircooler tho,
i figured it will give to much pressure on one side of the die..

its different with a water cooler block,
the pressure is more even, and not as high
over time a aircoolers downward weight might crush the die

maybe im seeing it totally wrong tho ..lol
if youre using the Thermalright Silver Arrow with 3 ty-140's
thats in your build smile.gif
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post #2584 of 33842
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

I'll give bare die a try with Liquid pro...I don't trust my IHS nor my fingers, don't wanna kill my MVG lol

For me I put a very light coat on DIE and water block area that comes in contact with die. All I needed was one small drop on die and it was enough for both the die and the water block.

You don't need to torque it down. Just a snug light pressure mount.

Too tight and you run risk of cracking die.
Too lose and it wont boot.

Has to be just right. Mine feels snug but not tight.

My bare die no IHS mount with 3570k and DT Sniper water block. This is how I have mine set up.


Side view mounted.



Some Fujipoly Extreme .5mm thickness thermal pad around die on PCB to provide stability and help with cooling.



EK TRUE 115X back plate for stability.

Edited by SonDa5 - 11/9/12 at 3:28pm
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post #2585 of 33842
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

i wouldnt advice doing that if you have a aircooler tho,
i figured it will give to much pressure on one side of the die..
its different with a water cooler block,
the pressure is more even, and not as high
over time a aircoolers downward weight might crush the die
maybe im seeing it totally wrong tho ..lol
if youre using the Thermalright Silver Arrow with 3 ty-140's
thats in your build smile.gif

I'm using the SA but with 2 ty-140s now...was lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonDa5 View Post

For me I put a very light coat on DIE and water block area that comes in contact with die. All I needed was one small drop on die and it was enough for both the die and the water block.
You don't need to torque it down. Just a snug light pressure mount.
Too tight and you run risk of cracking die.
Too lose and it wont boot.
Has to be just right. Mine feels snug but not tight.

Exactly that, I'll play with the amount of mounting pressure, I can regulate it with the pressure vault. Thermalright's mounting mechanism is awesome!
I'll try to place shims around the die to level the pressure...that sounds ok, right SonDa5?
After re-thinking what went wrong, I came to the conclusion that bare die would be better for me. I won't need to lap the IHS and I'll only need a bit of Liquid Pro on the die and heatsink base. I'll test for contact pressure and lap the cooler's base if needed (doubt I'll need to do that though)
post #2586 of 33842
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonDa5 View Post

For me I put a very light coat on DIE and water block area that comes in contact with die. All I needed was one small drop on die and it was enough for both the die and the water block.
You don't need to torque it down. Just a snug light pressure mount.
Too tight and you run risk of cracking die.
Too lose and it wont boot.
Has to be just right. Mine feels snug but not tight.

yea, i saw idontcare try different pressure on his, and he also noticed differences
in the pressure related to tempdrop etc ..funny, has to be just right for the best results..
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post #2587 of 33842
OCN name: Birthday
CPU: 3570K
on die-TIM: Antec 7
ihs-TIM: Antec 7
Mhz gained: 100-200
OC after delid: 4532 MHz
Temp drops: 5*C idle, 10*C load
CPU-Z validation of max OC: http://valid.canardpc.com/2576433

Oh my, I was skeptical about how this process would work for me, considering the fact that I had less than optimal cooling and motherboard options on hand. Apparently though, my fears were unfounded. Using my fantastic CM TPC 812 cooler, with amazing Antec 7 thermal paste, on my wonderful Asus P8Z77-V LX board... I am getting 4500 MHz at 71*C (23*C ambient) in prime95. 4600 MHz is seeming possible with temps in the high 70's, but that's going to take a little more work, especially with this motherboard.

Here's a photo of my adventures:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Edited by Birthday - 11/9/12 at 7:46pm
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post #2588 of 33842
OOOOHHHH Carefull with your chip!!!! Any peice of grit or anything abrasive and it is litereally a case of between a rock( your counter) and a hard place(You Chips bottom!)...and your chip is not that hard!!! Make sure you ground yourself before you touch that thing again.
post #2589 of 33842
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

Thermalright's mounting mechanism is awesome!
I'll try to place shims around the die to level the pressure...that sounds ok, right SonDa5?

I don't use shims. My DT Sniper block has springs and I just have them snug like in the photo I posted above.
I think a water block is better choice for bare die mount because they have low center gravity and not a lot of pressure on die. With a large heat sink that sticks out there is alot of weight hanging. Good luck with it. I hope it works great for you. I haven't seen bare die done with a air heat sink.


Birthday congrats! cool.gif
Edited by SonDa5 - 11/9/12 at 3:50pm
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Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
OCZ AGILITY 4 LG 16x BD burner DT Sniper CPU block Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ 79X0 Ni-Bl  
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Swiftech pump 655 Alphacool NexXxos UT 60 420mm 3x140mm Bgears 1800 RPM fans in pull on radiator Windows 7 Pro 64bit 
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post #2590 of 33842
You know, I had that very same thought a split second after I set it down there.

I do have lovely counters though.
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