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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 27

post #261 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

*hint: read my location under my avatar*
Not reading my post properly...I live in Argentina and I bought an EVGA card from the US, cause pricing here is insane. ($1000 for a gtx670)
I contacted several brands and the only two brands that would offer me a warranty despite buying from another country were EVGA and Gigabyte, both serial no. based. thumb.gif

Yeah, I have a friend in mexico that just built himself a computer because the xbox and xbox games cost soooo much there. He said its like 110$ for an xbox game where he is from so he just switched to pc because of steam.
 
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post #262 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokies83 View Post

IC diamond on die = no no.
ON IHS = yes



Working well for me so far. I'm not using IHS. I have LIquid Pro on the way to compare to IC Diamond.
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post #263 of 33558
why do some people say get liquid pro and others say get the ultra version??

Which one hardens over time?
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post #264 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

*hint: read my location under my avatar*
Not reading my post properly...I live in Argentina and I bought an EVGA card from the US, cause pricing here is insane. ($1000 for a gtx670)
I contacted several brands and the only two brands that would offer me a warranty despite buying from another country were EVGA and Gigabyte, both serial no. based. thumb.gif

Yah i kno i was speaking for americans lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewy View Post

why do some people say get liquid pro and others say get the ultra version??
Which one hardens over time?

Pro has better heat transfer then Ultra.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonDa5 View Post

Working well for me so far. I'm not using IHS. I have LIquid Pro on the way to compare to IC Diamond.

IC diamond Scratches things and i would not want my die scratched and i have both already... IC Diamond is easy to remove Cool LAb LP is not.. But under the IHS where u will not have to remove it.. CL LP should see upwards to 5c improvement over IC diamond... Do to it making it like one Object being like a solder instead of a tim.
Edited by Hokies83 - 10/9/12 at 11:08am
    
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post #265 of 33558
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post #266 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hokies83 View Post

Yah i kno i was speaking for americans lol
Pro has better heat transfer then Ultra.
IC diamond Scratches things and i would not want my die scratched and i have both already... IC Diamond is easy to remove Cool LAb LP is not.. But under the IHS where u will not have to remove it.. CL LP should see upwards to 5c improvement over IC diamond... Do to it making it like one Object being like a solder instead of a tim.

From what the I have read IC Diamond if removed with a solvent and dabbed not rubbed will clean off without making little tiny micro scratches. When I swap out the IC Diamond TIM for Liquid Pro next week I will see how my die has been doing so far. I hope it's not scratched. I will post photos.


Also I don't want to glue my die to my water block with Liquid Pro. I am not using the IHS. I am using a copper DT Sniper water block. Are you sure that Liquid Pro will create a glue like bond between the die and the copper water block?
Edited by SonDa5 - 10/9/12 at 6:40pm
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post #267 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonDa5 View Post

From what the I have read IC Diamond if removed with a solvent and dabbed not rubbed will clean off without making little tiny micro scratches. When I swap out the IC Diamond TIM for Liquid Pro next week I will see how my die has been doing so far. I hope it's not scratched. I will post photos.
Also I don't want to glue my die to my water block with Liquid Pro. I am not using the IHS. I am using a copper DT Sniper water block and I don't think. Are you sure that Liquid Pro will create a glue like bond between the die and the copper water block?

I do not know, but have you heard that PRO causes the IHS to stick to the die so that it is hard to remove? Or maybe damage the die once applied? I would not like that if true, and I have not heard that it does, but your concerns that it might make your HSF stick to your die makes me want to know.

And yes, I'd love to see how the IC Diamond did as it is an option for some and others worry that it will damage the die.
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post #268 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCWargamer View Post

I do not know, but have you heard that PRO causes the IHS to stick to the die so that it is hard to remove? Or maybe damage the die once applied? I would not like that if true, and I have not heard that it does, but your concerns that it might make your HSF stick to your die makes me want to know.
And yes, I'd love to see how the IC Diamond did as it is an option for some and others worry that it will damage the die.

I think it sticks to metals (corrodes aluminum) but it has trouble sticking to the die occationally and you need to actually rough the die a little to allow the LP to stick properly.
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post #269 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

>>>>> Surprising also was his finding that direct die to HFS did not help to reduce temps as much as he had thought they would.
see #583:
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2261855&page=24
_________________________________
....
The take home message there is replacing the CPU TIM doesn't really provide any benefit. Reducing the gap between the CPU and the IHS does. And removing the IHS entirely doesn't really provide much benefit either.
And that stands to reason. The heat is going to flow through the copper of the IHS the same as it does through the copper of the H100 waterblock.
But if there is a thick pad of thermal paste in the way, as was the case with my 3770k at time of purchase, then it doesn't really matter how good the TIM itself is (unless it too is made of metal) because the mere presence of that thick pad of thermal paste becomes the weakest link in the thermal conductivity equation.
Once you eliminate the bottleneck that is the gap between the IHS and the CPU, or if you happen to end up with an Ivy Bridge CPU which doesn't have much of a gap to begin with (Yuriman ), then you have pretty much optimized the system at that point regardless which CPU TIM of choice you employ and regardless whether or not you leave the IHS in place.
Now the choice of CPU TIM still plays a role in terms of the robustness in maintaining those nice low temperatures. If the so-called "pump out" effect is real then we can expect it to bite us unless we choose a substitute CPU TIM that is designed to avoid such thermo-mechanical effects.
I haven't really got into testing that part out yet, but I expect IC Diamond and the metal TIMs like Liquid Ultra to be key there. [/SPOILER]
Courtesy of PCWargamer.


Valguar I think removing the IHS completely does help. biggrin.gif


The key improvement that de-lidding does is allow the modder to apply the perfect coat of TIM and it allows the modder to apply the perfect mount.

A perfect mount is when you have perfect thermal contact area pressure and you have the best TIM applied properly.

My logic for not using the IHS is based entirely on contact pressure tests that I have performed with contact pressure paper.

My test results with the IHS and without. The solid pink colors shows good pressure and surface area contact for maximum thermal dissipation.


Bad contact area coverage and pressure between DT Sniper water block and IHS.



Good contact area coverage and pressure between DT Sniper water block and the die.



When you have mixed TIMs and multiple surfaces to transfer heat IMO the effectiveness of the heat transfer is going to be hindered. Maximum heat transfer is more likely between only 2 surfaces and a TIM rather than 4 surfaces and 2 mixed TIMs.

That is my logic for direct DIE mount being superior to DIE+IHS.
Edited by SonDa5 - 10/9/12 at 7:03pm
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post #270 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonDa5 View Post

Valguar I think removing the IHS completely does help. biggrin.gif
The key improvement that de-lidding does is allow the modder to apply the perfect coat of TIM and it allows the modder to apply the perfect mount.
A perfect mount is when you have perfect thermal contact area pressure and you have the best TIM applied properly.
My logic for not using the IHS is based entirely on contact pressure tests that I have performed with contact pressure paper.
My test results with the IHS and without. The solid pink colors shows good pressure and surface area contact for maximum thermal dissipation.
Bad contact area coverage and pressure between DT Sniper water block and IHS.

Good contact area coverage and pressure between DT Sniper water clock and the die.

When you have mixed TIMs and multiple surfaces to transfer heat IMO the effectiveness of the heat transfer is going to be hindered. Maximum heat transfer is more likely between only 2 surfaces and a TIM rather than 4 surfaces and 2 mixed TIMs.
That is my logic for direct die mount being superior to mount with DIE+IHS.

LM pro + Ihs + Ic diamond vs die + IC diamond u maybe getting 1 c better cooling 2 c tops.. but then u also have an exposed die which nobody recommends doing for the min gain u get if any.

Anywhos i have been using IC diamond before it was able to buy... as i got samples from them to test on GPU's before they released it...

Ive put IC Diamond on tons of things.. Many seats of coolers on my 3770k and about 6 gpus multi times lol. My 2600k my i5 750 and my i7 930 lol each with multi seats with diff coolers.
Edited by Hokies83 - 10/9/12 at 7:10pm
    
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