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post #29771 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmanmarz View Post

WOWOWOWOWOWOWOW absolutely massive temperature drop using the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. Initial tests showed a 20c difference. I'm talking high 30's in prime on average with spikes not even hitting 50c after 3 or 4 minutes of blend and or small fft. Right now back at 4700mhz and 1.4v I'm only spiking just into 50c. Temps are way way way more even. I think I'm going to get away with using a much lower voltage to stabilize this time. Who knows maybe even a higher OC.

The stuff is kinda hard to apply and it shoots out the nozzle like a rocket so be careful. I've never used liquid paste before and it's crazy, this stuff looks like mercury and rolls around like mercury. Just wants to stay in a ball. I still used ceramique 2 between the ihs and water block. And the ceramique 2 between the die and cap I previously used definitely did pump out.

I AM AMAZED RIGHT NOW

20c?

proof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gif

Do you have any proof of this? Screen Shots... Before / After?

4.7GHz @ 1.4v? That's a lot of volts for that OC...
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post #29772 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmanmarz View Post

WOWOWOWOWOWOWOW absolutely massive temperature drop using the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. Initial tests showed a 20c difference. I'm talking high 30's in prime on average with spikes not even hitting 50c after 3 or 4 minutes of blend and or small fft. Right now back at 4700mhz and 1.4v I'm only spiking just into 50c. Temps are way way way more even. I think I'm going to get away with using a much lower voltage to stabilize this time. Who knows maybe even a higher OC.

The stuff is kinda hard to apply and it shoots out the nozzle like a rocket so be careful. I've never used liquid paste before and it's crazy, this stuff looks like mercury and rolls around like mercury. Just wants to stay in a ball. I still used ceramique 2 between the ihs and water block. And the ceramique 2 between the die and cap I previously used definitely did pump out.

I AM AMAZED RIGHT NOW

Compared to what? Ceramique on the die? 20c sounds like what I'd expect.
Edited by jdorje - 2/3/16 at 7:23pm
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post #29773 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdorje View Post

Compared to what? Ceramique on the die? 20c sounds like what I'd expect.

Yes. I have not tried CLP or CLU but I understand the results will probably be similar.
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post #29774 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by JourneymanMike View Post

20c?

proof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gifproof.gif

Do you have any proof of this? Screen Shots... Before / After?

4.7GHz @ 1.4v? That's a lot of volts for that OC...

Yah gimme a few minutes. Once again this is compared to ceramique 2 on die, which by the way got much worse after about a week, when temps were spiking close to 100c. Yes I know my voltage is pretty high, and actually I was running 1.44v previously, and it seems to still be the case. Reminder I'm on a budget motherboard and this CPU has not been binned or anything.





VS



Mind you prime has only been running 15 minutes but that's more than enough time to give temp spikes. I'll give a new screenshot after a full test tomorrow.

Edit - previous prime run was 1344 for 30 minutes. Running blend at 6000MB/8000 the temps are already a little higher. Spiking into the low 60s. But the amazing thing is how even the numbers are now. I would still say <15c improvement no problem, although ambient is slightly higher. At 4.7 I previously had some cores spiking into the 80s (and 100 after a week after ceramique pumped out).

Update ~4 1/2 hours of prime blend 6000mb

Edited by madmanmarz - 2/4/16 at 3:55pm
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post #29775 of 33558
What reason explains why Phobya LM is listed as best in Wert however nobody is recommending or seem to utilize it?

Will it be worth a delid on a i5 4690k the maintains even core temperatures (within six degrees Celsius of each other)?
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post #29776 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post

What reason explains why Phobya LM is listed as best in Wert however nobody is recommending or seem to utilize it?

Will it be worth a delid on a i5 4690k the maintains even core temperatures (within six degrees Celsius of each other)?

I have no experience with Phobya LM, but my guess would be ease of use. CLU is quite easy to work with and a little goes a LONG way.

Any chip is worth delidding if you want lower/more consistent temps between cores...even if you were to leave the stock paste. Just removing the glue can easily nab you 10C from closing that gap.

While you're in there though, you might as well brush some CLU on and really make the most of it.
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post #29777 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboyto View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post

What reason explains why Phobya LM is listed as best in Wert however nobody is recommending or seem to utilize it?

Will it be worth a delid on a i5 4690k the maintains even core temperatures (within six degrees Celsius of each other)?

I have no experience with Phobya LM, but my guess would be ease of use. CLU is quite easy to work with and a little goes a LONG way.

Any chip is worth delidding if you want lower/more consistent temps between cores...even if you were to leave the stock paste. Just removing the glue can easily nab you 10C from closing that gap.

While you're in there though, you might as well brush some CLU on and really make the most of it.

Thank you, I forgot about the height drop of the IHS at the moment.

Do you have any experience using CLU between the IHS and the block? My memory says it is a bad idea, but could be hit or miss.

How would you advise re securing the IHS to the die/board? I think I read high temp silicone, and my idea would be just to dab some at the four corners.
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post #29778 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post

Thank you, I forgot about the height drop of the IHS at the moment.

Do you have any experience using CLU between the IHS and the block? My memory says it is a bad idea, but could be hit or miss.

How would you advise re securing the IHS to the die/board? I think I read high temp silicone, and my idea would be just to dab some at the four corners.

It doesn't make that large of an improvement over traditional paste. It stains and can burn into copper...can really be a pain to clean. Less chance of getting it where you don't want it as well...Best to just use something like GC extreme, NT-H1, Thermal Grizzly, etc.

I use thermal tape under the lid. It's enough to secure the lid from moving around and allows easy removal if you need to get the lid off again. This is also nice for Haswell because you can protect the VRMs under there from getting any LM on them.
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post #29779 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboyto View Post

It doesn't make that large of an improvement over traditional paste. It stains and can burn into copper...can really be a pain to clean. Less chance of getting it where you don't want it as well...Best to just use something like GC extreme, NT-H1, Thermal Grizzly, etc.

I use thermal tape under the lid. It's enough to secure the lid from moving around and allows easy removal if you need to get the lid off again. This is also nice for Haswell because you can protect the VRMs under there from getting any LM on them.

I used high temp rtv last week, although you would probably be fine with regular silicone. I was able to take the cap back off again with a thin plastic card, not even having to use a razor. It cleaned up easy and I used rtv again and clear nail polish around the cpu and on any metal contacts. I just used a tiny amount of rtv around the edge of the cap, slapped it on, stuck it in the socket, closed it, and mounted the block quickly so it would apply pressure onto everything. Seems to have worked well!

The IHS is nickel plated copper, so I would imagine if you use a nickel plated copper block, that would be fine. On copper there seems to be discoloration and the cpu might get stuck to it pretty good.
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Intel i5-6600k @ 4.7, 1.44v ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4/D3 (DDR3!!) Sapphire R9 290x (fully unlocked 290) 2x8GB Crucial Ballistix DDR3L @2400 11-12-12-31... 
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OCZ Vector 180 240GB Raid 0 OCZ Vector 150 240GB Raid 0 Seagate Momentus XT 750GB (gen 2) Enzotech Sapphire SCW-Rev.A CPU block 
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mhmm
(26 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-6600k @ 4.7, 1.44v ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4/D3 (DDR3!!) Sapphire R9 290x (fully unlocked 290) 2x8GB Crucial Ballistix DDR3L @2400 11-12-12-31... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
OCZ Vector 180 240GB Raid 0 OCZ Vector 150 240GB Raid 0 Seagate Momentus XT 750GB (gen 2) Enzotech Sapphire SCW-Rev.A CPU block 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Swiftech MCW80 GPU block Phobya Xtreme 200 v2 (200x45mm) Alphacool NexXxos ST30 (240x30mm) XSPC RX120 (120x60mm) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool VPP655 / Laing D5 XSPC Dual Bay Res NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan controller Primochill Advanced LRT 3/8" Blue UV tubing 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Pro LG 34UM67 21:9 Freesync 2560x1080 30-75hz Razer Nostromo, CM Storm Devastator Ultra LSX-750 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Antec Eleven Hundred v2 Razer Naga Glorious PC Gaming Race Quality onboard 
AudioAudio
Old TEAC receiver Sennheiser 201 Headphones 
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Reply
post #29780 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboyto View Post

It doesn't make that large of an improvement over traditional paste. It stains and can burn into copper...can really be a pain to clean. Less chance of getting it where you don't want it as well...Best to just use something like GC extreme, NT-H1, Thermal Grizzly, etc.

I use thermal tape under the lid. It's enough to secure the lid from moving around and allows easy removal if you need to get the lid off again. This is also nice for Haswell because you can protect the VRMs under there from getting any LM on them.
Do you have any photos of the tape on there ?
Did you use the .5mm stuff?
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