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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 2984

post #29831 of 33555
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post



I broke this tool trying a delid of my 4690K.

Is there a warranty on the tool?
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post #29832 of 33555
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post



I broke this tool trying a delid of my 4690K.
How's the chip ?
Did you print it ? Pla or abs?
post #29833 of 33555
No warranty, it is a free 3dblue print.

The chip seems okay, I don't think it even endured a dent, nor did the glue give any.

I think my next task it to have the tool printed again with a much higher infill or strength or something. I am not the one printing it, I use a public 3d printing service.
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post #29834 of 33555
Why not just use a vice???
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post #29835 of 33555
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post



I broke this tool trying a delid of my 4690K.

Actually same thing happened to me. But the issue for me was that I had it printed with not enough infill.
After that I just sanded down an old credit card and delided my 4790k this morning.
It literally took less then a minute to get the lid off using the card. I did not want to use razor on the chip as the gap was so narrow I was afraid to scratch the PCB.
Anyway now I am delided and happy. Used MX-4 on the die since CLU is still in mail. Should be here this week.
post #29836 of 33555
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdorje View Post

Why not just use a vice???
My life changes constantly. I do not have a vice, shop, garage, I had a c clamp though. I am searching for those things.

I do not have any CLU or other LM on hand at the moment. I was going on the advice of @Roboyto and planned on removing the stock glue, keeping the stock TIM. It was part of my new custom loop install. The custom loop went in okay, the delidding, a stubborn mule.


Quote:
Originally Posted by orvils View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post



I broke this tool trying a delid of my 4690K.

Actually same thing happened to me. But the issue for me was that I had it printed with not enough infill.
After that I just sanded down an old credit card and delided my 4790k this morning.
It literally took less then a minute to get the lid off using the card. I did not want to use razor on the chip as the gap was so narrow I was afraid to scratch the PCB.
Anyway now I am delided and happy. Used MX-4 on the die since CLU is still in mail. Should be here this week.

I bet you knew things were going bad when hearing the mold begin to crack. I soaked the cpu in hot water (covered), tried the razor without confidence then finished off the tool with a wooden board and hammer.
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post #29837 of 33555
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post

My life changes constantly. I do not have a vice, shop, garage
All you need to delid is something like this. Got mine in the local hardware store for like 2€.
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post #29838 of 33555

I used this, worked like a charm biggrin.gif
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post #29839 of 33555
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post

I bet you knew things were going bad when hearing the mold begin to crack. I soaked the cpu in hot water (covered), tried the razor without confidence then finished off the tool with a wooden board and hammer.

Well your tool actually look good enough for it to work. Mine was way way less dense.
The issue you had is that you used c-clamp. I used same thing since I did not have a vice, not could I get a hold of one that easily.
C-clamp adds uneven pressure. It presses against the center only. And caused unit to deform.

I would actually advise on getting a razor and just slicing it through. That is if you can't get a vice somewhere. If you can then vice will be safer.
Or do as I did and use a sanded down credit card(or guitar pick) instead of razor.
Don't waste your time and money on these fancy 3d printed things.
post #29840 of 33555
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post

My life changes constantly. I do not have a vice, shop, garage, I had a c clamp though. I am searching for those things.
If you are advertising I will try it out. I do not have any CLU or other LM on hand at the moment. I was going on the advice of @Roboyto and planned on removing the stock glue, keeping the stock TIM. It was part of my new custom loop install. The custom loop went in okay, the delidding, a stubborn mule. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

You should still see an improvement in temperatures even if you don't swap the paste out.  Intel did specify the 4690/4790 received upgraded thermal paste, so that could be something.  The Intel paste is also kinda thick so it may not suffer from pump out like traditional pastes.

 

IHS Gap Performance Gains:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=34053183&postcount=570

 

I have used a razor on all of my delids up to this point.  My first attempt with a razor knife was also a failure as I was anxious/nervous/scared.  However I found that a standard razor blade is best. You could probably benefit from heating the IHS, or razor blade, a little bit to get through the glue a little easier, though I haven't tried this yet myself.  

 

 

The hardest part of the razor method is getting it started.  I've found the best strategy is to use the center of the razor to get under a corner of the IHS.  By using the razor at a slight angle you can usually get under the corner pretty easily as the glue doesn't go all the way to the edge. Once the razor is under the corner you can slowly push the rest of the blade under the edge of the IHS.

 

 

Generally speaking the glue is thickest on the 'wings' where the socket latch pushes down to secure the CPU.  

 

A thought I just had was the use of some fishing line or possibly dental floss.  I say this because it is how I have removed emblems from cars before...use a hairdryer to heat up the glue holding it on and then slide the line behind it to remove them without damaging anything.   If you can get a corner started with the razor first this may work...use a small heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the IHS and then see what happens.  

 

If you do decide to cut it off, just be sure to keep in mind where the VRMs are under the lid! Use the gold arrow and/or dots on the PCB to know where to be the most careful.

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