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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 3064

post #30631 of 33985
CPU: 4790k
on die-TIM: Phobya LM
ihs-TIM: MX-4
Mhz gained: (Unknown, purchased delidded)
OC after delid: 4.8ghz (limited by air cooling thermal limit)
Temp drops: (unknown, purchased delidded) 80c Max stress testing at 1.232v 4.8ghz high ambient with PH-TC14PE 20-30c idle 60c peak gaming (also partially lapped IHS)
CPU-Z validation of max OC: http://valid.x86.fr/9qmcdm (5.0ghz)



Think I am finally done with this pig tongue.gif. Seems like a good CPU but unfortunately I don't have pre-delid specs
Edited by dmfree88 - 6/29/16 at 8:13am
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post #30632 of 33985
Quote:
Originally Posted by wywywywy View Post

Any recommended seller of a 3D printed delid tool with Ivybridge compatibility in the UK?

I can delid it for you if you PM me.
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post #30633 of 33985
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej511 View Post

try entersetup.com ships from finland i believe took a couple days to get to France pretty sure its faster to the UK. The 3d printed tools are a joke, a few people have broken em, bent em what have you haha.

Yes that seems like a good option, around £35 including everything. Are the 3D printed ones really bad? I've only watched a few videos on youtube it seems fine but that's all I've seen about them.
post #30634 of 33985
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

I can delid it for you if you PM me.

Yea i would too but id be more worried about it getting damaged in shipping especially if sent in a padded envelope.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wywywywy View Post

Yes that seems like a good option, around £35 including everything. Are the 3D printed ones really bad? I've only watched a few videos on youtube it seems fine but that's all I've seen about them.

The 3d ones are good if its made well and then it becomes costly, plus you still need a vice. The 3d printed ones are way more useful for skylake. Before the tool i pretty much stuck the IHS on the edge of a marble table, used a piece of wood and smacked it on the wafer and popped it off haha. The tool makes life so much easier and pretty much impossible to damage. That includes gouging it with a blade or bending the wafer.
    
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post #30635 of 33985
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej511 View Post

Yea i would too but id be more worried about it getting damaged in shipping especially if sent in a padded envelope.
The 3d ones are good if its made well and then it becomes costly, plus you still need a vice. The 3d printed ones are way more useful for skylake. Before the tool i pretty much stuck the IHS on the edge of a marble table, used a piece of wood and smacked it on the wafer and popped it off haha. The tool makes life so much easier and pretty much impossible to damage. That includes gouging it with a blade or bending the wafer.

I'd be sending it in cardboard and boxed, I'm not a person who skimps on packaging because damaging someones CPU is not worth the hassle to save a few pence, postage expenses will be covered by pricing and I'll likely be returning it insured signed for.
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post #30636 of 33985
Hey delidders. How we doing tonight?

I have a question that been sitting in the back of my head for a year now.

I am using Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra 100% Metal Thermal Interface Material for my ivy bridge delidded 3770k.

When should it be cleaned replaced between the IHS and CPU die?
post #30637 of 33985
Every time you remove the IHS, also likely every time you move your block if disturbing the IHS, then I would take temperatures into consideration to say and every time when it doesn't work anymore, when it doesn't work, replace it.
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post #30638 of 33985
Quote:
Originally Posted by HITTI View Post

Hey delidders. How we doing tonight?

I have a question that been sitting in the back of my head for a year now.

I am using Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra 100% Metal Thermal Interface Material for my ivy bridge delidded 3770k.

When should it be cleaned replaced between the IHS and CPU die?

No one has reported it drying up to my knowledge so unless your temps are climbing it should be fine.
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post #30639 of 33985
I found out why Phobya Liquid Metal is annoying to me, there is no way to use it sparingly as upon application the consistency is that of pushing around mercury balls. There was nothing I could do to keep it from beading at first attempt, one really must paint and paint and paint to get the thing to spread.

Warning to Phobya LM users, make sure you get the metal painted and spread out. I did not, so much so that a bead of it fell to my wood floor (splat), and if it would have hit the motherboard anywhere, I would be in so much trouble.
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post #30640 of 33985
Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tsl33p14 View Post

I found out why Phobya Liquid Metal is annoying to me, there is no way to use it sparingly as upon application the consistency is that of pushing around mercury balls. There was nothing I could do to keep it from beading at first attempt, one really must paint and paint and paint to get the thing to spread.

Warning to Phobya LM users, make sure you get the metal painted and spread out. I did not, so much so that a bead of it fell to my wood floor (splat), and if it would have hit the motherboard anywhere, I would be in so much trouble.
I notice this too since I use phobya LM. You've really got to smash that stuff down to get it to stick instead of rolling around. I haven't tried clu/clp since the bit of LM has lasted forever
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