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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 3079

post #30781 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

The problem is the PCB is very thin and me and Blue here have had haswell CPUs start to show signs of bending the PCB with naked mounts so I would want the shim to be exact in use with EKs naked mount kit. Too much pressure and the chip will just die.

Yeah I figured, bare die is scary, lol. So you are saying you would want it exactly the size of the die? Or exactly the size of the EK kit?
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post #30782 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTRtank View Post

Yeah I figured, bare die is scary, lol. So you are saying you would want it exactly the size of the die? Or exactly the size of the EK kit?

Both, reason being if it was the size of the socket the amount of heat it would absorb and hold would make it pointless going bare die, might as well keep the IHS on. The reason the temps are lower with bare die is the cooling is direct. A good example of this is delidded soldered chips, once you remove the solder temps go down a few degrees even with the IHS still on and LM used between the die and IHS.
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post #30783 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Both, reason being if it was the size of the socket the amount of heat it would absorb and hold would make it pointless going bare die, might as well keep the IHS on. The reason the temps are lower with bare die is the cooling is direct. A good example of this is delidded soldered chips, once you remove the solder temps go down a few degrees even with the IHS still on and LM used between the die and IHS.

Yeah I know how it works, but do you think the copper shim would hold more heat as opposed to the IHS? If using a shim were safer but lower temps then I would go for it. Don't know if the temp difference would be worth it, but yeah. Bet you could get one laser cut somewhere.
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post #30784 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTRtank View Post

Yeah I know how it works, but do you think the copper shim would hold more heat as opposed to the IHS? If using a shim were safer but lower temps then I would go for it. Don't know if the temp difference would be worth it, but yeah. Bet you could get one laser cut somewhere.

The difference in thickness of the IHS and a shim wouldn't be anywhere close to similar, 0.6mm vs 6mm or so, no competition. thumb.gif
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post #30785 of 34072
that method would defeat the purpose of naked mount. your still going to have Die>paste>copper>paste>waterblock. the reason to go naked is to remover the copper between die and waterblock.
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post #30786 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnd0e View Post

that method would defeat the purpose of naked mount. your still going to have Die>paste>copper>paste>waterblock. the reason to go naked is to remover the copper between die and waterblock.

Well you're braver than I to have your waterblock CNC machined then take a dremel to your socket... a lot of work, how thick is the IHS btw?
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post #30787 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnd0e View Post

that method would defeat the purpose of naked mount. your still going to have Die>paste>copper>paste>waterblock. the reason to go naked is to remover the copper between die and waterblock.

Right, but if no one makes anything that is safe to use then what is the point in the first place? Either way as stated before, .6mm vs 6mm is still going to be less thermal resistance. I think someone should try and compare.
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post #30788 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTRtank View Post

Right, but if no one makes anything that is safe to use then what is the point in the first place? Either way as stated before, .6mm vs 6mm is still going to be less thermal resistance. I think someone should try and compare.

The comparisons surely have been done before? a good example is the fact I can take my CPU up to 1.6v and I still have 10-15c of thermal headroom with bare die, I doubt that a shim less than a mm thick would add 10-15c? Like I said if you want to go true baredie on a skylake then you need to have the block machined then add some spacers to the EK mount kit, plus shave the socket by 1mm.
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post #30789 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

The comparisons surely have been done before? a good example is the fact I can take my CPU up to 1.6v and I still have 10-15c of thermal headroom with bare die, I doubt that a shim less than a mm thick would add 10-15c? Like I said if you want to go true baredie on a skylake then you need to have the block machined then add some spacers to the EK mount kit, plus shave the socket by 1mm.

I haven't been able to find anything, because since it isn't true bare die I think it's disregarded. I highly doubt it would add 10-15c, but that's just my opinion. But I believe it would be a cheap, and non permanent way to run skylake bare die-ish. Worst case scenario, you just do do the typical LM in between die and IHS, until someone makes something. Or you want to drop the bones and trust someone to machine your block.

I was reading somewhere else on the forum to put thermal pads at each corner of the pcb to help spread the "load" on the Chip. That was for IB, but same concept applies.
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post #30790 of 34072
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Naked mount? Direct to the die? It's not possible without either a spacer or a modded base plate on the ek block. The die sits 0.4mm below the highest point of the socket.


You couldn't sand down the socket? Obviously kills the warranty on the motherboard but theoretically? Just curious.
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Windows 10 Seasonic 650w M12II Phanteks Enthoo Pro M with Acrylic side Cobra e-blue 
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
intel core 2 quad q8200 Dell studio stock Dell studio Stock Corsair Force 3 SSD 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
External powered Seagate expansion desk Dell studio stock Stock Windows 10 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8350 GA-990FXA-UD5 MSI 7870 Hawk Edition Gskill 1600 2x4 GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Corsair Force Series 3 22x Samsung w/ lightscribe dvd/cd burner Noctua NH-D14 Win 7 pro x64 
MonitorPowerCase
Acer x173w Seasonic M12II 650watt Semi-Modular PSU Apevia x-dreamer4 (with side window and red) 
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