Originally Posted by Benjiw
I really think the R&D from ek was enough to get good pressure on the die man, I haven't tested my block's pressure or anything but I don't hit thermal throttling until 1.6v+, you put washers and all sorts on to your kit and I imagine that throws all sorts of issues your way as it wasn't designed for that added pressure and tolerance. The whole point in the TIM is to make the gap non-existent. I do believe that in your case you're over complicating a simple solution.
This is correct because it will put too much pressure on some pins and break contact meaning no boot. I have to go HAM on my thumb screws in order to achieve this though, I just leave them very weakly hand tightened.
The washers i have dont change a thing, i put 4 very thin ones under the mounting springs so that the springs dont get caught in the actual waterblock mounting bracket holes and make all sorts of noises and end up leaving tiny metal particles everywhere. They dont change the pressure or anything.
I never said the pressure wasn't good, its decent at best. Problem is the die is perfectly straight and the waterblock is convex quite a bit. The pic is floating around somewhere to show proof of that.
I can crank mine down tight till the mounting screws bottom out, and thats exactly following EKWBs instructions. The springs are what keep the pressure down anyways. The spring pushes down on the bracket and the waterblock pushes back up on the spring. It makes more contact with the cpu socket then the die which is what keeps the die from bending or even breaking so its a good thing.
Theres absolutely no issues with it and i do believe the ekwb kit and mounting hardware can pretty much work on every waterblock available, might need to find nuts or bolts that fit if the waterblock is quite thick but should work.
Here, excuse the mspaint lol. I have all 4 washers right there under each spring. It hasnt changed the pressure or anything as the springs are stil pushing down on the block.Edited by bluej511 - 8/7/16 at 2:25am