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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 314

post #3131 of 33696
Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwareDecoder View Post


I'm the purple haired one.

Trololololol..
 
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post #3132 of 33696
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

yep smile.gif
biggest temp drops i saw so far , using ultra,
are feniks, 31C, and pcwargamer, 26C, they both used it on die and ihs..
still have to wait for months, to see how hard pro is to remove after, 7-8+ months
have to go, laterz peeps thumb.gif

Well, I found that, while making multiple attempts at removing my ultra, even after a short period, removing it was a complete pain, it took a lot of effort to remove from the IHS and cooler base and even then I couldn't get it all. It did seem to improve the surface though so I'm not sure it's a bad thing.

I would just say not to expect it to come off completely.
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post #3133 of 33696
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirektEffekt View Post

Other way around. Pro is the more thermally conductive, Ultra is easier to spread.
But they should only be within 2 or 3c.
I suspect, though, that people with under maybe 15c drops either got very lucky with their stock TIM or they may have slightly messed up their TIM application, perhaps letting the IHS slide over the sticker or something similar.

@VonDutch
You know whats funny? I did try to OC my Desktop, but the Dell BIOS has no such function... at least that I know of! biggrin.gif


Well, my IHS did slide as I pushed down the retention clip. Might that cause it?

If I was to redo the application... how can I clean the die and IHS?
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post #3134 of 33696
Quote:
Originally Posted by flv1333 View Post

@VonDutch
You know whats funny? I did try to OC my Desktop, but the Dell BIOS has no such function... at least that I know of! biggrin.gif
Well, my IHS did slide as I pushed down the retention clip. Might that cause it?
If I was to redo the application... how can I clean the die and IHS?

If it slid over the little black sticker it may have. The die will wipe clean easily. The IHS, just wipe as much as you can off with a clean, lint free, towel and any small amounts left on the surface will be of no consequence. Actually, even if it is still shiny but not wet it should be perfect for re-application. You can scrub with some steel wool or something if you really want to get more off, but you don't necessarily have to. thumb.gif
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post #3135 of 33696
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirektEffekt View Post

Well, I found that, while making multiple attempts at removing my ultra, even after a short period, removing it was a complete pain, it took a lot of effort to remove from the IHS and cooler base and even then I couldn't get it all. It did seem to improve the surface though so I'm not sure it's a bad thing.
I would just say not to expect it to come off completely.

yep,
i think its even mentioned on the coollaboratory site,
that it can "upgrade" other tims.. dont think its a big deal if theres some leftovers ..


in my search for delidding without using blades, but to dissolve the adhesive somehow,
i just bought this

HG sticker and sticky label remover allows for the simple removal of stickers, sticker adhesive, rubber adhesive,
adhesive tape, tar splashes, greasy patches, oil, heel marks and many other problems, from virtually all surfaces.

i saved all the adhesive from the pentiums, so i can try it on that,
ill put some on the pcb too, to see if it damages that in any way,
i wanted to buy nail polish remover, or aceton, couldnt get aceton(yet),
but it might just work well too..
Quote:
Originally Posted by flv1333 View Post

@VonDutch
You know whats funny? I did try to OC my Desktop, but the Dell BIOS has no such function... at least that I know of! biggrin.gif
Well, my IHS did slide as I pushed down the retention clip. Might that cause it?
If I was to redo the application... how can I clean the die and IHS?

yea, could be one reason, theres a little guide, its on page 1,
how to put back the ihs again, not to let it slide on that black sticker
that little black thingy there, is like the mount everest..lol
i tried to take it off completely, but it was very hard to remove,
so i just let it be..


i posted this elsewhere before, about cleaning,
if you have a 10 bucks to spend, its enough to go a long way..

The set contains three components, which provide an excellent cleaning when using correctly.
Phase 1: Preparation
Phase 2: Cleaner
Phase 3: Metal Cleaner
The Liquid Cleaning Set - Phase 3 was designed especially for metallic surfaces (copper, nickel, aluminum etc.)

http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/products/liquid-cleaning-set/

if i have money, i will buy a set, and see how it works with my liquid pro after months of usage,
Edited by VonDutch - 11/15/12 at 5:53am
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post #3136 of 33696
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirektEffekt View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

yep smile.gif
biggest temp drops i saw so far , using ultra,
are feniks, 31C, and pcwargamer, 26C, they both used it on die and ihs..
still have to wait for months, to see how hard pro is to remove after, 7-8+ months
have to go, laterz peeps thumb.gif

Well, I found that, while making multiple attempts at removing my ultra, even after a short period, removing it was a complete pain, it took a lot of effort to remove from the IHS and cooler base and even then I couldn't get it all. It did seem to improve the surface though so I'm not sure it's a bad thing.

I would just say not to expect it to come off completely.

Both CL Ultra and Pro are a pain to apply and to remove compaired to other TIMs, but they are both very good for temps - especially between the die and IHS where they are, so far, the best TIM to use.

I have tried both now, and Ultra is easier to apply. I also found Ultra is harder to remove than other TIMs after some use (besides Pro), but I was able to remove it without too much trouble using the scrub pad they provide and 91% alcohol. I have not had to remove much PRO yet, but I expect it will require lapping the IHS and HSF to get it all off.

I do not know if the die will be as hard to remove as the surface there is not metal, and at least for the Ultra, it remained more liquid there even after a month of use compared to between the IHS and the HSF where it was dried out and harder to remove after that.

Pro does seem to run ~1-3C lower than Ultra, but I will probably buy more Ultra instead of Pro as I find it much easier to use and clean off, and I do end up having to do this multiple times as I change system parts and processors and make system adjustments. It's not like my system is set up to just work and then remain static very long.
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3770K Gaming Sys
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post #3137 of 33696
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCWargamer View Post

Both CL Ultra and Pro are a pain to apply and to remove compaired to other TIMs, but they are both very good for temps - especially between the die and IHS where they are, so far, the best TIM to use.
I have tried both now, and Ultra is easier to apply. I also found Ultra is harder to remove than other TIMs after some use (besides Pro), but I was able to remove it without too much trouble using the scrub pad they provide and 91% alcohol. I have not had to remove much PRO yet, but I expect it will require lapping the IHS and HSF to get it all off.
I do not know if the die will be as hard to remove as the surface there is not metal, and at least for the Ultra, it remained more liquid there even after a month of use compared to between the IHS and the HSF where it was dried out and harder to remove after that.
Pro does seem to run ~1-3C lower than Ultra, but I will probably buy more Ultra instead of Pro as I find it much easier to use and clean off, and I do end up having to do this multiple times as I change system parts and processors and make system adjustments. It's not like my system is set up to just work and then remain static very long.

I suspect that the reason it is easier to remove from the die is because it is not rough like the IHS or HS. It is, in fact, very smooth and pretty much as close as you would get to polished. It helps that it's not metal as well but I suspect it is mostly to do with the surface finish.
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790K 4.8GHz @ 1.306v (Actual) ASUS Maximus VII Gene Gigabyte GTX 780 Galaxy GTX 780 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
16GB G.Skill Ares (4x4GB @ 1866MHz OC'd to 2133) Samsung 840 Evo 500GB WD Black 2.5" 750GB EK Supremacy EVO Acetal 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacool NeXXos UT60 240mm Radiator EK XE 360 Radiator x 2 EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acetal /w Backplate and Reinfor... 8 x EK Vardar F4 
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EK MOSFET ASUS M7G Acetal Nickel Windows 8 x64 Pro Dell U2711 (2560*1440) Dell P2715q 
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My System
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790K 4.8GHz @ 1.306v (Actual) ASUS Maximus VII Gene Gigabyte GTX 780 Galaxy GTX 780 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
16GB G.Skill Ares (4x4GB @ 1866MHz OC'd to 2133) Samsung 840 Evo 500GB WD Black 2.5" 750GB EK Supremacy EVO Acetal 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacool NeXXos UT60 240mm Radiator EK XE 360 Radiator x 2 EK-FC780 GTX Ti Acetal /w Backplate and Reinfor... 8 x EK Vardar F4 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
EK MOSFET ASUS M7G Acetal Nickel Windows 8 x64 Pro Dell U2711 (2560*1440) Dell P2715q 
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Ducky Shine 3 Year of the Snake Edition Corsair AX1200 Thermaltake Cube X2 
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post #3138 of 33696
Yes, took it off the HSF and IHS and was able to confirm that my IHS is concave, so will lap that **** once my liquid pro arrives.
post #3139 of 33696
I had an issue when I removed my CL Ultra last week. It bonded with the metal on the IHS, and on both the die and the IHS, it left little metalic peices that were also bonded to the DIE/IHS. I relapped my IHS to get it flat again(those peices were big enough that I was worried I would have poor contact). On the DIE I used the cleaner/prepper that I got with the CL Ultra and went to town for a while with a cotton swab and a few swipes of my finger nails. They are a freaking head ache to remove, but thay are worth it!
post #3140 of 33696
Should I lap the d14 too?
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