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post #32871 of 33114

Can I be added please.

 

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post #32872 of 33114
Just did mine today so far so good:





Not delidded Stock temps:


With delidded stock temps:


OCN name: Anth0789
CPU: i7 7700K
On-die TIM: CoolLaboratory Liquid Ultra
IHS TIM: Arctic MX-4
Mhz gained: - ?
OC after delid: 4.5ghz
Temp drops: 10c avg
CPU-Z validation of max OC: http://valid.x86.fr/72lq3p


Will overclock it now to at least try 5ghz.
Edited by Anth0789 - 4/14/17 at 5:42pm
 
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post #32873 of 33114
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheInternal View Post

Hey all.

Been reading up a bit on what others have done / what's worked for delid and/or relid on a 7700k before I make the leap.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but some observations I've made;

- Delid without relidding the IHS offers too little gain considering all the modding you have to do to your socket to get a decent connection between the CPU and heatsink
- a liquid metal TIM sounds like the way to go for the chip to IHS heat transference
- removing the original IHS sealant is a pain in the ass / can result in damage to the PCB if not done carefully
- "silicon gasket maker" sounds like the most popular way to go for remounting the IHS due to higher chance of damage from gluing
- most folks use too much silicon the first time they remount their IHS, so going super sparingly would probably make sense
- most folks seem to be using relatively pricey delidding kits and relidding kits, and having positive experiences with them

Some questions / concerns I have;

- Does remounting the IHS with silicon result in the same firmness as the original Intel sealant? What exactly is the original sealant / can it be obtained by consumers at a reasonable price point?
- Does the waxed dental floss delid approach actually work? Seems feasible and low risk... really tempted to try it since I'm pretty broke after buying all these computer parts.
- What's the best bang for the buck on safe relidding tools?

Other thoughts;

So, I'm not really looking to OC as much as I want to simply lower temps on my 7700k. At 100% sustained load at stock settings, I easily went into the mid 90C range. Yikes. I'm running the chip in a cramped Node 202 case with a Cryorig C7 cooler, so it's not exactly getting a lot of airflow. Undervolting has gotten the chip to the high 80C range at max load, and a more reasonable mid to high 70C range during Time Spy stress testing... but that's still much warmer than I would like. With average decrease in the 15C-20C range for many folks from a delid, it seems like it'd be worth the effort.

Being a long-time computer nerd, I remember most of the builds I did not involving any processors with a new-fandangled "IHS" thingie... just straight CPU die to thermal paste and a heat sink. I kinda wish there was an easy way to just run the processor naked without a crapload of high risk modding needed frown.gif

Like said before, the delidding tools are a very good idea, and not just for noobies. It's faster, and much safer. With a vice you risk bending or breaking the PCB (provided that you own a vice in the first place), and with a blade you risk scratching the PCB resulting in a dead or partially working chip. You can use duct tape on one side of the blade to be a bit safer though.

Aside from the cheap plastic 3D printed ones (which you still need a vice to use them, so rather pointless), there is 2 delidding tools currently for Kaby Lake :
Delid Die Mate 2
and
Rockit Cool 88.

The Delid Die Mate 2 is a little faster to use because it has only 1 screw. The Delid Die Mate 1 had 6 screws, but it was already fast and easy to use, the Delid Die Mate 2 is child's play at this point really.
It has an include relid kit.
2 major drawbacks though IMO :
First, it doesn't provide a base to hold the CPU while you clean off the glue and thermal paste, as opposed to the Delid Die Mate 1 and Rockit Cool 88.
Second, the availability is really bad right now. I originally ordered it march 6th, it was tagged available starting from march 13th, but once the date passed, it stated a different date, and so on. I got tired of it, plus I realized that it couldn't be used as a holder to clean off the CPU after the delid, so I canceled the order a week ago and bought the Rockit Cool 88.
1 thing that I really didn't like and never accounted before, they charge a 2 € fee if you don't choose the option "pay upfront".

The Rockit Cool 88 is the better choice in terms of the product itself IMHO, but 1 drawback : the price is the same as the Delid Die Mate 2, but the relid kit is not included, it's sold separately for 8 $.

The Rockit Cool 88 is shipped from the US, the Delid Die Mate 2 from Germany.
Edited by Shadorino - 4/14/17 at 6:55pm
post #32874 of 33114
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadorino View Post

Snip. Good summary.

Rockit was down for a while, but the minute they came back up I ordered, and I emailed James asking if black parts would be available. He emailed me back saying they'd be made the next day and changed my order from white/silver to all black. He shipped on a Monday (I ordered Sunday), and I got the parts on Wednesday in CA.

Very satisfied. I've looked at the guides for Delid Die Mate and I think Rockit's guide is just so braindead simple. Part of why I got it was the relid kit, although Delid Die Mate2 seems to have one too.

You make some good points and I'm 100% satisfied with the Rockit Cool tool. Delid Die Mate 2 is definitely faster, but honestly putting a few screws together with my thumbs and turning the allen key is not a big deal. It's like a total of 30 seconds. Plus, I think I spent more time hesitating (how far do I turn?) and waiting for that POP than I did screwing my kit together.
post #32875 of 33114
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmo580 View Post

Rockit was down for a while, but the minute they came back up I ordered, and I emailed James asking if black parts would be available. He emailed me back saying they'd be made the next day and changed my order from white/silver to all black. He shipped on a Monday (I ordered Sunday), and I got the parts on Wednesday in CA.

Very satisfied. I've looked at the guides for Delid Die Mate and I think Rockit's guide is just so braindead simple. Part of why I got it was the relid kit, although Delid Die Mate2 seems to have one too.

You make some good points and I'm 100% satisfied with the Rockit Cool tool. Delid Die Mate 2 is definitely faster, but honestly putting a few screws together with my thumbs and turning the allen key is not a big deal. It's like a total of 30 seconds. Plus, I think I spent more time hesitating (how far do I turn?) and waiting for that POP than I did screwing my kit together.

I got it all black too. Black and silver wasn't available. I took the relid kit as well, which I will need before RMAing the CPU if I break. Wasn't available. I haven't received it yet, it shipped from Texas on April 7th, but I'm in France…
post #32876 of 33114
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasboogieman View Post

The delid tool is seriously worth it, no joke, I've yet to see something die (pun).
I guess once you figure out the delidding part, the relidding part has only 2 real sources of problems.

1. Double and Triple check that the IHS is actually lower than your core die, mine was not so it was literally floating there supported by the die after I cleaned the black stuff off. Failure to do this may lead to a cracked core upon remounting. I got around it by shimming it with black electrical tape, the pressure from the mounting will dig in to the tape thus preventing core cracking but the slight give also allows intimate die-IHS contact.

2. tape over/use nail polish on any gold pins or exposed circuitry near the die, this saves your core from accidents if the liquid metal ends up overflowing

I don't think the IHS resting on the die is a problem, as long as you don't apply a crazy amount of pressure with the cooler. In that case the thin PCB would break before the die IMHO.
Glue removed => thinner paste => better thermal conductivity of the liquid metal. All of that contributes to lower temps. One of those 3 things might very well contribute more than the others though.
I don't know about Kaby Lake, but with Sandy Bridge the thing that made the biggest difference was the removal of the glue and the thinner paste, which greatly reduced the gap between IHS and die.




Edited by Shadorino - 4/14/17 at 7:23pm
post #32877 of 33114
there's a load of people always saying they didn't bother using glue

the very first post explains how you're supposed to put you're finger on the IHS before you clamp it down

I have yet to see a single post about a chipped DIE because the IHS put too much pressure on it

if anything the PCB would bend that hundredth of a mm before the DIE does anything
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post #32878 of 33114
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasboogieman View Post

Double and Triple check that the IHS is actually lower than your core die, mine was not so it was literally floating there supported by the die after I cleaned the black stuff off. Failure to do this may lead to a cracked core upon remounting. I got around it by shimming it


while I wholeheartedly concur on the delidding tools and putting something on the gold contacts


I have literally no one see shimming the IHS, ever


not der8auer
not any review site that delid themselves, YouTube video, not silicon lottery or any user

ever


I know what you mean
I had my IHS float on the chip as well

was fun to turn

but this could also come from the IHS and the PCB since those 2 surfaces are also kinda perfect flat


I'll try to remember

I have a bitspower custom IHS coming in 3 weeks or so

gonna remove my original (delidded) IHS and see if I can make contact between IHS and DIE

gonna take some contact colour from work
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post #32879 of 33114
Quote:
Originally Posted by philhalo66 View Post

Does it matter what type of clear nail polish i use to cover the caps?
Free bump,cause I'd like to know that too..
   
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post #32880 of 33114
Quote:
Originally Posted by mAs81 View Post

Free bump,cause I'd like to know that too..

errr

I'm not sure anyone has tested clear nail polish for its non conductive properties amongst different brands
I'm sure we're just assuming here that they are all not conductive (when dry of course)

that said I have used clear nail polish from my wife to stop the coil whine on my GTX 1060, sooo I guess its not really conductive

if one is afraid of putting whichever nail polish on youre wife or girlfriend is using, you could use any other TIM that is not conductive
or some tape, or a dab of silicon, the original TIM from Intel (thats what I used), orrrrr ....
or if you use that RTV stuff to glue it back on, that works as well (or again any plain old silicone)

as long as it is not conductive, sticks in place and doesn't run away if its heated 60 to 100 degrees, so bees wax is out biggrin.gif


of course you could buy this as well



or give this a read

http://www.overclock.net/t/1606542/is-nail-polish-conductive

Quote:
Originally Posted by philhalo66 View Post

Does it matter what type of clear nail polish i use to cover the caps?

look at the answers you received in youre own thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1606542/is-nail-polish-conductive

like this one
Quote:
The answer depends on the actual contents of the specific polish. But in general acrylic films are not conductive. Even better would be shellac. Shellac was what was used to insulate transformer windings back in the days before alkyd chemistry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmm26 View Post

I was workiing on a motor controller a while ago, and I used some nail polish to coat some custom made wire wound resistors that were submerged in water for cooling (green thingy in the photo), It is probably gonna work for your application. If you want to play it safe, you could use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTB-400-4-Ounce-Electrical/dp/B000FPAN2K



Quote:
I think a better option would be using some common RTV silicone (or the liquid electrical tape of course).

Edited by peter2k - 4/15/17 at 6:27am
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