Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel CPUs › [Official] Delidded Club / Guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 3290

post #32891 of 33101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zyther View Post

Hi All,

Looking at delidding a 3770k.
I see most people use Cool Laboratory Liquid Ultra, how does Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut compare to it? Any benifits from one over the other?

Also is it better to relid with a Gel Super Glue or Silion?

no difference really

there are 3 different liquid metal "pastes" on the market (4 if you count Cool Laboratory pro and ultra as separate products; where only ease of application is a bit different)

they all use the same ingredient as main component and have all about the same wmk and application "difficulty"

and react the same with aluminium and ("staining") copper


most have used silicone to glue it back together

some are worried about super glue "ripping" off some PCB if you would delid again

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero Clocker View Post

I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut which is not easy to handle as too much of the fluid emerged and it's a mess to clean up

is that compared to Phobya liquid metal or cool laboratory?
because those don't handle that great (compared to more traditional TIM) either

and both are hard to clean up

I had a drop of Phobya LM drob on my hard wood floor
the only way to remove the drop was to smear it and then clean up the smear
the drop itself did not want to go into any paper, be it drenched in alcohol or dry

as a hint and tidbit
picked something up from another forum

on the IHS I used baby wipes (not oily ones) to wipe off the liquid metal
worked suitably ok

and then of course cleaned it up properly
no idea if it was what the wipes where drenched in, the texture, or whatever

but it worked better then anything I tried before
Edited by peter2k - 4/22/17 at 3:30am
Black n RGB
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 7600K 5.2 Ghz delid at 1.376v MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB Kingston HyperX OC to 3200 CL17 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Kingston HyperX OC to 3200 CL17 samsung 840 evo Samsung 830 pro NZXT Kraken X62 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 LG 29EA93-P Cougar Vantar Gaming Sharkoon WPM600 
CaseMouseMouse PadOther
Thermaltake Core P5 Logitech Performance MX Asus ROG Sheath MX Desk Mount 
Other
NZXT RGB HUE+ 
  hide details  
Reply
Black n RGB
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 7600K 5.2 Ghz delid at 1.376v MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB Kingston HyperX OC to 3200 CL17 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Kingston HyperX OC to 3200 CL17 samsung 840 evo Samsung 830 pro NZXT Kraken X62 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 LG 29EA93-P Cougar Vantar Gaming Sharkoon WPM600 
CaseMouseMouse PadOther
Thermaltake Core P5 Logitech Performance MX Asus ROG Sheath MX Desk Mount 
Other
NZXT RGB HUE+ 
  hide details  
Reply
post #32892 of 33101
Quote:
Originally Posted by peter2k View Post

they all use the same ingredient as main component and have all about the same wmk and application "difficulty"


Thats what I thought but seems like Conductonaut is alomost double :/
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - 38.4 W/mk
post #32893 of 33101
Quote:
Originally Posted by peter2k View Post

...

As this is my first encounter with liquid metal I've no comparisons. What I've found out after wiping and smearing a drop of it with tissues is India Rubber. My clean white table was covered with smears and the more I've been wiping the worser it came.
But with a rubber eraser the stains vanished totally (after a bit of work).
Will use Conductonaut for my CPU cooler as well. This time I'll cover the whole table and myself.As well the black sticky silicon Uhu glue was hard to clean from may hands and my jeans as well. What did you use for sticking the IHS to the CPU? I've read the manual today and it says 1 mm silicon takes 24 hours to dry and you should not heaten it up before. The Delid-Die-Mate creator says only for 30 to 60 minutes. I've waited an hour.
post #32894 of 33101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zyther View Post

Thats what I thought but seems like Conductonaut is alomost double :/
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - 38.4 W/mk

yeah I'm kinda prepared for that statement
it's basically an error

many shops don't even have the wmk for any of them
even the manual doesn't say
hard to come by actually

20170422_141618.png

another user replied basically the same
mistake on the low value a few pages ago

still if you wanna go save then it's either Phobya LM, grizzly LM or the pro from which I pulled that pic

also 2c271243_tim-comparison-2015-overclocking-guide-4-png.png

Phobya LM has also really high wmk
just finding it difficult to actually see it somewhere
sigh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero Clocker View Post

As this is my first encounter with liquid metal I've no comparisons. What I've found out after wiping and smearing a drop of it with tissues is India Rubber. My clean white table was covered with smears and the more I've been wiping the worser it came.
But with a rubber eraser the stains vanished totally (after a bit of work).
Will use Conductonaut for my CPU cooler as well. This time I'll cover the whole table and myself.As well the black sticky silicon Uhu glue was hard to clean from may hands and my jeans as well. What did you use for sticking the IHS to the CPU? I've read the manual today and it says 1 mm silicon takes 24 hours to dry and you should not heaten it up before. The Delid-Die-Mate creator says only for 30 to 60 minutes. I've waited an hour.

some standard silicone really
put it on the IHS

put the CPU in the socket, pressed my finger down so it won't slide (like in the original post) and clamped it down and tried it out right away

I've seen users using silicone that's save for 400 to 500 degrees Celsius

kinda overkill
Edited by peter2k - 4/22/17 at 5:32am
Black n RGB
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 7600K 5.2 Ghz delid at 1.376v MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB Kingston HyperX OC to 3200 CL17 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Kingston HyperX OC to 3200 CL17 samsung 840 evo Samsung 830 pro NZXT Kraken X62 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 LG 29EA93-P Cougar Vantar Gaming Sharkoon WPM600 
CaseMouseMouse PadOther
Thermaltake Core P5 Logitech Performance MX Asus ROG Sheath MX Desk Mount 
Other
NZXT RGB HUE+ 
  hide details  
Reply
Black n RGB
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 7600K 5.2 Ghz delid at 1.376v MAXIMUS VIII FORMULA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB Kingston HyperX OC to 3200 CL17 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Kingston HyperX OC to 3200 CL17 samsung 840 evo Samsung 830 pro NZXT Kraken X62 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 LG 29EA93-P Cougar Vantar Gaming Sharkoon WPM600 
CaseMouseMouse PadOther
Thermaltake Core P5 Logitech Performance MX Asus ROG Sheath MX Desk Mount 
Other
NZXT RGB HUE+ 
  hide details  
Reply
post #32895 of 33101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero Clocker View Post

Spoiler! (Click to show)
i7-7700K
Asus Strix 270i
Corsair Vengeance LPX
Noctua NH-12

OCN name: Zero Clocker
CPU: i7 7700K
On-die TIM: thermal grizzly Conductonaut
IHS TIM: Arctic Silver V
Mhz gained: -
OC after delid: 4601,10 MHz (Perfomance Setting UEFI and Power Options)
Temp drops: 20°C-35°C on load
CPU-Z validation of max OC: http://valid.x86.fr/75dmuu

Besides, I'm not about occing my CPU at this time, just let it recover from brain surgery. wink.gif


Here's my de-lidding/re-lidding experiment. The de-lidding is so decent I haven't even noticed the lid was off already and it was inaudible. The technique is to use the force at all 4 angles simultaneously. There is no bang as with other tools. I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut which is not easy to handle as too much of the fluid emerged and it's a mess to clean it. Could not suck in the liquid metal with the syringe.






Before I hit 100°C after 40 minutes GTA V. even with DDR 2133MHz, Turbo disabled.



After De-lidding and Re-lidding: DDR 2400, Turbo 4500 MHz.
Idle and Turbo. The 76°C happened during CPU-Z Stresstest.


Most of the time about 60°C to 65°C after 40 minutes GTA V.

Awesome results!

That 20C-35C temp. drop is impressive.
Looks like the AC Dr Delid is a good quality delidding tool.
Nice to see a few good choices on the market now.

"V" is my game of choice, so I appreciate seeing your results running it, lol.

Excellent post and photos.
Rep+thumb.gif
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 4790K EVGA Z97 Classified EVGA 1080Ti FE/Titan Xp GSkill Ripjaws X 16GB DDR3 2133 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  Mayhems Havoc 240/360 Rads 14 x Nidec Servo D1225C  PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK TXP GPU Block EK Black GPU Backplate EK Supremacy EVO EK D5 Dual Serial Top 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
EK RES X3 150 2 x Laing D5 Vario W10 Pro 64  Acer XB271HU 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Ducky One TKL ISO/UK Version Cherry MX Blue/Blu... EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 Platinum CaseLabs Mercury S8 White with Pedestal and Ext... Razer Deathadder Elite 
Mouse PadOtherOtherOther
OCUK  Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 XT Aqua Computer Splitty9 Aqua Computer Hubby7 
OtherOther
Bitfenix Alchemy 2.0 Black PSU Cables Vortex Backlit PBT Doubleshot Keycaps  
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 4790K EVGA Z97 Classified EVGA 1080Ti FE/Titan Xp GSkill Ripjaws X 16GB DDR3 2133 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  Mayhems Havoc 240/360 Rads 14 x Nidec Servo D1225C  PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK TXP GPU Block EK Black GPU Backplate EK Supremacy EVO EK D5 Dual Serial Top 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
EK RES X3 150 2 x Laing D5 Vario W10 Pro 64  Acer XB271HU 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Ducky One TKL ISO/UK Version Cherry MX Blue/Blu... EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 Platinum CaseLabs Mercury S8 White with Pedestal and Ext... Razer Deathadder Elite 
Mouse PadOtherOtherOther
OCUK  Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 XT Aqua Computer Splitty9 Aqua Computer Hubby7 
OtherOther
Bitfenix Alchemy 2.0 Black PSU Cables Vortex Backlit PBT Doubleshot Keycaps  
  hide details  
Reply
post #32896 of 33101
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero Clocker View Post

i7-7700K
Asus Strix 270i
Corsair Vengeance LPX
Noctua NH-12

OCN name: Zero Clocker
CPU: i7 7700K
On-die TIM: thermal grizzly Conductonaut
IHS TIM: Arctic Silver V
Mhz gained: -
OC after delid: 4601,10 MHz (Perfomance Setting UEFI and Power Options)
Temp drops: 20°C-35°C on load
CPU-Z validation of max OC: http://valid.x86.fr/75dmuu

Besides, I'm not about occing my CPU at this time, just let it recover from brain surgery. wink.gif

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Here's my de-lidding/re-lidding experiment. The de-lidding is so decent I haven't even noticed the lid was off already and it was inaudible. The technique is to use the force at all 4 angles simultaneously. There is no bang as with other tools. I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut which is not easy to handle as too much of the fluid emerged and it's a mess to clean it. Could not suck in the liquid metal with the syringe.






Before I hit 100°C after 40 minutes GTA V. even with DDR 2133MHz, Turbo disabled.



After De-lidding and Re-lidding: DDR 2400, Turbo 4500 MHz.
Idle and Turbo. The 76°C happened during CPU-Z Stresstest.


Most of the time about 60°C to 65°C after 40 minutes GTA V.


You're In! thumb.gif Slappa Dat Sig On! biggrin.gif
post #32897 of 33101
Ordered a rocketitcool delid kit and some Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra smile.gif
post #32898 of 33101
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Awesome results!

That 20C-35C temp. drop is impressive.
Looks like the AC Dr Delid is a good quality delidding tool.
Nice to see a few good choices on the market now.

"V" is my game of choice, so I appreciate seeing your results running it, lol.

Excellent post and photos.
Rep+thumb.gif

Thank you so much for your acknowledgment. Dr. Delid is is very useful tool but the manual (just pictures) is not really helpful. I've found a description yesterday what was missing in the package.
Phoned Aquashop and the friendly guy explain it to me and that he himself was surprised about the easy handling. Unfortunately they have no video either. What I did not know was to put relidding frame in first and after the heatspreader. Tried that by intuition but the heatspreader with the nasty black silicon glue seem to not fit through the frame. But it does. The manual below describes the steps.
What GTA V concerns I'm waiting for GTA VI. There is no open world game currently which is at the level of GTA V. So it's still my favorite game and I'll play it over and and again (PS3 PS4- eventually PC).

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/aqua-computer-releases-dr-delid.html
Quote:
"Heat spreader removal process
Aqua Computer's no. 1 priority: Prevention of CPU damage

1. The processor is inserted into an exact, CNC machined recess in the acetal base. The relatively soft acetal material prevents damage to the CPU by excessive punctual pressure or scratching.
2. Before the actual removal process, the CPU is locked in place. The tool can be handled without risk of the CPU dropping from the tool.
3. The removal process is facilitated by rotating the hexagon socket screw by hand using the supplied wrench. A mechanical stop limits the rotation of the heat spreader in the tool.
4. During the removal process, the heat spreader is secured in the tool. It can not hit the CPU die by accident.
5. After removal of the heat spreder, an aperture in the tool allows to lift the CPU from the tool without touching the gold contacts.

Reinstallation of the heat spreader
After cleaning the CPU and application of new thermal grease, insert the CPU into the tool again. Dr. Delid can be used for precise installation of the heat spreader:

1. A stainless steel frame for heat spreader alignment is inserted into a recess in the tool. The heat spreader can now be inserted into the frame, resulting in perfect alignment to the CPU. The heat spreader can be installed with glue (for instance silicone or polyurethane).
2. A stainless steel bracket supplied with the tool can be used to apply slight pressure to the center of the heat spreader, until the glue is cured. A knurled screw made from polyamide prevents damage to the heat spreader."
post #32899 of 33101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

You're In! thumb.gif Slappa Dat Sig On! biggrin.gif

Thank you! I feel highly honoured to join your club. graduated.gif

What I've forgotten while delidding was to take pics being that hightly focused on making everything right.


Meanwhile after having read a bit about delidding I've some questions left and I'd be happy for an answer of you guys.

Next step could be applying liquid metal between IHS and CPU cooler.
Is this a good idea? Some claim the surfaces of IHS and Cooler backplate are damaged afterwards (not only aluminium type) or hard to get loose.


Next question: This guy takes Scotch Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape to isolate the PCB around the DIE:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/liquid-metal-showdown-thermal-grizzly-conductonaut-vs-cool-laboratory-liquid-ultra-pro.791489/

28999135bb.jpg

*Is this recommended and is here someone who taped the PCB?

*Could the liquid metal move to the untaped PCB after re-lidding and damage it? So is it dangerous for the CPU not to isolate the PCB while using liquid metal on the DIE and inside the IHS?

* Can I delid my CPU another time (after having relidded with UHU silicon glue) to tape it with Scotch33+ or is this risky?
Edited by Zero Clocker - 4/23/17 at 1:16pm
post #32900 of 33101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero Clocker View Post

*Could the liquid metal move to the untaped PCB after re-lidding and damage it? So is it dangerous for the CPU not to isolate the PCB while using liquid metal on the DIE and inside the IHS?

I dont think the LM would hurt the PCB on the cpu unless it has components on it, if it gets on the green would be fine?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Intel CPUs
Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel CPUs › [Official] Delidded Club / Guide