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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 554

post #5531 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by snelan View Post

@ NyteRider
I used Liquid Pro, and could only get it to stick to the die. I actually tried spreading it on the inside of the IHS and it wouldn't stick, just ball up. So I just put it on the die.
Still works fine though, ~25c drops across the board with MX-4 on the top of the IHS.

I used it on both the die and IHS just like they show in the below video and it worked flawlessly. Temperature drop was 28C.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFhbqiFh9Us
post #5532 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by PuffinMyLye View Post

Is plasticizer no longer and issue with PrimoChill tubing? I know it was for a long time.

Not in the Advanced but 10foot is 25$ =/
    
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post #5533 of 33641
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyghtryder_9 View Post

So I went back and redid it. The first go around I didnt put any liquid ultra on the ihs itself , so i thought that would be the culprit.
Heres a couple pics so you can tell me if I am going about it wrong ( although running prime right now and the temps are even lower than the last go around.



Forgot to take a pic of the IC diamond but i just put about a grain of rice worth along the center of the ihs.
Heres a screen shot of it stock at 4.6 after 2 hours prime blend

Heres at 4.6 after 2 hr prime first go around of deliding

Now Aida showed a -8 drop consistent while real temps all over the place from 15-16 drop to 4-6 drop on the second 2 hr pass.
Right now after 1hr running prime this time i am seeing even more of a drop. Aida shows 18-20 drop on the cores while real temp shows core 1-3 at 17 drop while 2-4 at a 21 drop from original. Dont get me wrong, I am happy with the results, but which should I trust more of the two programs? Either way well worth it

Use realtemp. There is actual difference per core because of the sleeping cores early on in low idle and higher testing sometimes one core is used more than others and vice versa. So your temps look good on the real temp now finally. As the igpu of the intel architecture for Ivy is by those cores and sometimes they get a bit hotter.

Your all in the clear! So congratz sir! biggrin.gif
post #5534 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

Use realtemp. There is actual difference per core because of the sleeping cores early on in low idle and higher testing sometimes one core is used more than others and vice versa. So your temps look good on the real temp now finally. As the igpu of the intel architecture for Ivy is by those cores and sometimes they get a bit hotter.
Your all in the clear! So congratz sir! biggrin.gif

Nice, time to work on 5.0 since temps arnt in the way now biggrin.gif
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post #5535 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyghtryder_9 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Valgaur View Post

I bet you either have a messy IHS where its concave on the inside to convex on the top so that cores 3 and 4 will not have great connectivity. So for this take the IHS off again and take a pic of the TIM application for us to help you more. I bet you either have to to much or not enough TIM on the die.
Realtemp is the best program that doesn temps without a prode. I have no idea as to how the programs do this

So I went back and redid it. The first go around I didnt put any liquid ultra on the ihs itself , so i thought that would be the culprit.
Heres a couple pics so you can tell me if I am going about it wrong ( although running prime right now and the temps are even lower than the last go around.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Forgot to take a pic of the IC diamond but i just put about a grain of rice worth along the center of the ihs.

Heres a screen shot of it stock at 4.6 after 2 hours prime blend


Heres at 4.6 after 2 hr prime first go around of deliding



Now Aida showed a -8 drop consistent while real temps all over the place from 15-16 drop to 4-6 drop on the second 2 hr pass.

Right now after 1hr running prime this time i am seeing even more of a drop. Aida shows 18-20 drop on the cores while real temp shows core 1-3 at 17 drop while 2-4 at a 21 drop from original. Dont get me wrong, I am happy with the results, but which should I trust more of the two programs? Either way well worth it

Do not rely on Aida temps, they are always too low. RealTemp is the main temp program used by people who OC. Another good program is CoreTemp. But RealTemp is very good temp program and much better than most others that too often show temps below what they are, which is really not a good thing... redface.gif

And your temps look good. Good job! thumb.gif
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post #5536 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm3nian View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by PCWargamer View Post

Sorry to hear about your troubles now. It may have happened during or after, but it may not have been caused by it. Probably something that happened during the process if anything. A delid should only affect temps unless the pcb was damaged, and that has only effected ability to POST or ram issues so far. Never heard of a problem like you are noting.
Have you done some basic diags? Run mem tests? Tested internet speed programs? Seen anything else besides what your noting to try to narrow the problem further? Change anything else besides just delid and cooling? Might be what you see is a symptom that further testing might uncover root cause. People here may need more data to help. What are we sure works, and what is everything it now has problems with?

Well I was thinking unstable ram could cause it, so I went down to 1600mhz just incase. Still the same. The weird thing is that before my problem, I got my RATED speeds for seq reads/writes, 550mb reads and 500mb writes, together in raid 0 1100mb reads and 1000mb writes. But now, I get slightly less than that when it works properly, in the range of 30-40mb less for reads and writes. It can't be a sata 3/2 problem because when it does work it goes past the limit for sata 2. It's completely random and I have not yet seen a pattern to when it works properly or it doesn't. Windows 8 also just said restart to fix drive error, I did and nothing changed, have no idea what that error was. I think i'm missing something but can't see what it is...


Have you verified the problem with everything at stock? Also, check BIOS for changes and maybe put everything back to default except what is required to make it run (like raid). I do not think a delid would cause this problem, especially as it seems to be intermitent. Odd issue really. Hope others have ideas too....
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post #5537 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCWargamer View Post

Have you verified the problem with everything at stock? Also, check BIOS for changes and maybe put everything back to default except what is required to make it run (like raid). I do not think a delid would cause this problem, especially as it seems to be intermitent. Odd issue really. Hope others have ideas too....

I don't think me scratching the pcb could cause the problem either, I mean I don't think I did... everything works fine lol. But it works sometimes on boot, and when it does it KEEPS working until a restart. I was thinking 1 of the drives maybe failed? But if it failed how does it still work, maybe a different kind of fail? I could rma but I really don't want to be with without my comp once again. Also I reset the cmos many times, do you think an updated bios could cause this? I think I had the problem before I updated but i'm not sure. The new bios is really weird, like if I go up from 4.9 to 5, and it crashes, and I try to go down to 4.9 again, the bios will say I changed it but CPUZ says its still at 5ghz, no idea what is happening there. And always after I reset cmos, and oc, the next time I boot everything has weird values, like REALLY weird values, so I just change it and next boot it works. I've never seen any of these problems before which is why it's really hard to fix.
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post #5538 of 33641
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm3nian View Post

I don't think me scratching the pcb could cause the problem either, I mean I don't think I did... everything works fine lol. But it works sometimes on boot, and when it does it KEEPS working until a restart. I was thinking 1 of the drives maybe failed? But if it failed how does it still work, maybe a different kind of fail? I could rma but I really don't want to be with without my comp once again. Also I reset the cmos many times, do you think an updated bios could cause this? I think I had the problem before I updated but i'm not sure. The new bios is really weird, like if I go up from 4.9 to 5, and it crashes, and I try to go down to 4.9 again, the bios will say I changed it but CPUZ says its still at 5ghz, no idea what is happening there. And always after I reset cmos, and oc, the next time I boot everything has weird values, like REALLY weird values, so I just change it and next boot it works. I've never seen any of these problems before which is why it's really hard to fix.

When your updating the mobo don't update only bios. Asus has set updates for different parts. Try the utility updates ALONG with other updates if your mobo has raid updates sometimes they do. So check that out as well.
post #5539 of 33641
hey, i have a little problem over here,
\tried to get a answer in the AMD cpu section of ocn,
but no answer yet, only answers to other posts after me...lol
(could it be because i have a intel build in my sig??)


"i bought a FX8350, on ga 990fxa d3,
installed it yesterday, but it wont boot,
vid card starts spinning, stops, starts spinning ..etc,
thought i did something wrong, so i took it all apart again,
putt together again, checked all cables like 5x, same problem,
hdd led blinks a few sec, vid card starts spinning, repeat...
no signal on monitor, wont even show bios or anything,
tried 2 different vid cards..

im puzzled, so im looking on the net, one answer was,
i need a bios update to make it work?
FX8350 doesnt work on my mobo?, it worked with the 1100T,
problem is i sold it, so cant check if its something else see..

i thought it was the old psu im using, its only 400Watt,
its a oldy tho, maybe it cant handle the startup power fx8350 needs?
not sure anymore what bios version is installed,
since i gave the comp to my son,
if it seems that its my bios, how can i get a new/latest one on?,
i dont have another cpu i can use for it..."
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/5650#post_18836582


any idea what it can be, im sure some of you have amd's still ..lol
Edited by VonDutch - 12/16/12 at 2:59am
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post #5540 of 33641
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

hey, i have a little problem over here,
\tried to get a answer in the AMD cpu section of ocn,
but no answer yet, only answers to other posts after me...lol
(could it be because i have a intel build in my sig??)
"i bought a FX8350, on ga 990fxa d3,
installed it yesterday, but it wont boot,
vid card starts spinning, stops, starts spinning ..etc,
thought i did something wrong, so i took it all apart again,
putt together again, checked all cables like 5x, same problem,
hdd led blinks a few sec, vid card starts spinning, repeat...
no signal on monitor, wont even show bios or anything,
tried 2 different vid cards..
im puzzled, so im looking on the net, one answer was,
i need a bios update to make it work?
FX8350 doesnt work on my mobo?, it worked with the 1100T,
problem is i sold it, so cant check if its something else see..
i thought it was the old psu im using, its only 400Watt,
its a oldy tho, maybe it cant handle the startup power fx8350 needs?
not sure anymore what bios version is installed,
since i gave the comp to my son,
if it seems that its my bios, how can i get a new/latest one on?,
i dont have another cpu i can use for it..."
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/5650#post_18836582
any idea what it can be, im sure some of you have amd's still ..lol

The power a comp draws when off load is like non existent, 150-300watt at max. Anyway, your problem sounds like 100% cpu 8pin lol. Could be ram. And to update bios, not sure if amd has this but you diwnload bios on usb stick and insert into the CORRECT slot, check manual, and press the button, you dont even need a cpu for that, runs off mobo chipset.
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