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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 603

post #6021 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

Hey guys, I'm getting a nice Christmas gift!
1000w BFG psu lol
I'm gonna retire my trusty TX750, perhaps I can give it to my gf for her rig.
Now I need that 3770k replacement fast!
buddy, good luck with getting it up and running! so your 3770K died on former board (bent pins)? sory to hear, good luck with RMA in USA, should go through easily. in meantime enjoy the borrowed SB chip and have some Intel fun biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirektEffekt View Post

I honestly find the argument on here about the meaning of Delta to be quite funny. Technically, as pointed out, when used in the context of temperatures, delta means the difference between two temperatures. This could be the difference between ambient and load temperatures, the difference between water and ambient temperatures, the difference between load and idle temperatures, the difference between any two cores, and the list could go on and on. It's all about the context. It has, unless specified in such a way, no one, singular, correct meaning. redface.gif
nah, we know what delta means in general (difference), it wasn't about that, trust me we are not morons ... wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirektEffekt View Post

I think it was about using idle temperatures instead of load. Then there was an argument about the use of the word delta. Then there was an argument about the accuracy of temperature readings. I just found the common belief that delta for some reason could only mean one thing the most entertaining.
yup, this. "delta" mostly means the water to ambient temperature change under load, but of course we are open for other meanings of word "delta". idle temps are not precise or very far from it actually especially in software readers using integrated thermal probes on the die at idle - those sensors are designed to work most correctly when they are needed and that means close to dangerous thermal levels near thermally induced throttling or shutdown.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomi View Post

Just stumbled across a post on the Danish "Overclock" forum.
Person used CLP on his HD6970, ran with it for about 3 months and upon re-doing his loop he wanted to redo / clean up his GPU application.
As expected, the block would not budge, so he had to twist it slightly counter-clockwise - Unfortunately his GPU looked like this when he removed the block:


Could this have been prevented by heating up the block before removal ? Probably - But this is just a small warning when removing your Block / IHS - Its fine on Block/IHS - But Block/Die and its abit trickier.
Before anyone starts flaming the poor guy, need to mention he is well-known here in Denmark for extreme cooling and as such, so its no "rookie" when it comes to alternative cooling and the adventures we go through smile.gif
wow! dude, that is SCARY! CL LP seems like a little risky way to me after seeing this ... will stick to Ultra personally ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by I_shot View Post

I've reseated the cooler and put more tim on cooler surface and tested at the same settings. on second core i achieved 25 C difference no delid to delid. I believe i can drop temps by 1-2 C more but i'm tired to do it now smile.gif
25C is a very decent drop in temps! I'd leave it right there and enjoy it!
one way of knowing that you applied TIM under IHS (on die) wrong is when you see core2 being off by 15C versus others under full load and near 5GHz frequency, been there before. what works for me on the die is a very thin layer of TIM and proper placement of IHS (taking into consideration that it will move when clamping down in the socket).
on IHS I use double layer of Ultra, because it seems my CPU block is not perfectly flat and neither the stock IHS is, that works best for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by She loved E View Post

man i hope i can get mine going to get temps like that.
so i got mine to boot again. out of 4 sticks I've tested in slot 1, only 1 of them will work.
is it possible for a botched delid to kill a stick of ram, or did i just damage the imc which makes it more sensitive to instable ram?
i haven't bolted the block back on yet... i'm trying to take it extra slow to get it right this time. i guess i'll try lightly bolting it down and booting before i tighten further? would love some more ideas if anyone has any...
I've seen a bad delid pics & descriptions before and a few killed the IMC in process... only way to be sure is to test your ram stick on other system and rule them out this way or test another ram kit on your system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm3nian View Post

I corrected myself by explaining what I meant, this is the 2nd time you've failed to read my posts before replying.
no I haven't failed. I just reply to them in order I read them, meaning you are reading my replies 10 pages back until I get back on tracks. I'm not a cyborg constantly hooked up to this thread ... some people actually have a real life and do christmas shopping for instance tongue.gif

your point of view was wrong and a few people tried convincing you about it and yet you kept flaming us for being right and it's actually you who failed to google the issue and solutions ahead of posting your own incorrect opinions. simple apology is usually in order among civilized people. happy holidays.
post #6022 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by alancsalt View Post

Software voltage and temperature readings have never been particularly accurate, even if it isn't "rocket science".
Intel for example use a method of inferring temperatures from a chips throttling point, which will have the usual range of manufacturing variation.
http://www.overclock.net/t/476469/the-truth-about-temperatures-and-voltages
Unclewebb, creator of RealTemp has written at length about it.
I've sent Unclewebb a PM asking if he can give me some links on how Nvidia and ATI do it. I hope he can help because I'm interested in what method they use.
I didn't find anything useful in a Google search. Just got tons of How Good are my Temps posts....

Which is exactly what I stated in the post you didn't read lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeJoseph View Post

And this is why ultra is nice. You don't need to worry about breaking anything when removing parts. I have pro between my IHS and die, but ultra everywhere else. I did test ultra on the die too (it came in a day before my pro did), and there was very little difference in temp reduction between ultra and pro.

I got a 4c drop from ultra to pro so i'm fine. I lapped the water block anyway cause I was bored.
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post #6023 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by feniks View Post

no I haven't failed. I just reply to them in order I read them, meaning you are reading my replies 10 pages back until I get back on tracks. I'm not a cyborg constantly hooked up to this thread ... some people actually have a real life and do christmas shopping for instance tongue.gif
your point of view was wrong and a few people tried convincing you about it and yet you kept flaming us for being right and it's actually you who failed to google the issue and solutions ahead of posting your own incorrect opinions. simple apology is usually in order among civilized people. happy holidays.

My point of view was that using pro over other thermal pastes gave me a low delta, not that cpu and gpu idle temps from software is 100% accurate.

Given the low heat output when a gpu is on idle, plus a massive copper block to absorb heat, a good thermal compound to transfer to heat to moving water, getting a little above ambient temps is very possible. My original point. Happy Holidays to you to.
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post #6024 of 33558
Heh, I'm folding on this little bugger doing gpu and smp, whilst browsing, and playing Ragnarok Online lol
G620 at stock clocks now, bclk was making my Os go bananas, and xmp profile for my PSC sticks. 1866mhz 9-9-9-27-3t 1.6v (this chip's imc is not too good and it's SB, so meh)
Got it for 60 bucks actually, it wasn't free, but it's a nice addition and a useful backup.
post #6025 of 33558
the saga continues...

got the machine to boot w/o cpu block. when i fastened the block (changing NOTHING else) it won't boot. madsmiley.png

does it make sense that its pressure-sensitive now that there's no adhesive between IHS & pcb? I'm using CLP on the die, btw.
 
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post #6026 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by feniks View Post

please, you obviously don't know what you are talking about doh.gif

Don't bother man. You'll just get frustrated
post #6027 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by She loved E View Post

the saga continues...
got the machine to boot w/o cpu block. when i fastened the block (changing NOTHING else) it won't boot. madsmiley.png
does it make sense that its pressure-sensitive now that there's no adhesive between IHS & pcb? I'm using CLP on the die, btw.

I have the exact same problem with one of my 3770Ks. I nicked the PCB and only 1 DIMM will work and I have to fiddle with the H100 mounting to get it to boot. I'm trying to get parts so I can set up a test bench to try to get this sorted.
post #6028 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by She loved E View Post

the saga continues...
got the machine to boot w/o cpu block. when i fastened the block (changing NOTHING else) it won't boot. madsmiley.png
does it make sense that its pressure-sensitive now that there's no adhesive between IHS & pcb? I'm using CLP on the die, btw.

Can you try with the stock cooler if you still have it? Or just leave the CPU block about half a turn looser than you otherwise normally would tighten it?
post #6029 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by tw33k View Post

I have the exact same problem with one of my 3770Ks. I nicked the PCB and only 1 DIMM will work and I have to fiddle with the H100 mounting to get it to boot. I'm trying to get parts so I can set up a test bench to try to get this sorted.

ah good idea, sorry you've got the same problem (its maddening, isn't it?). i think right now for my sanity and F@H stats i'm going to swap in my good ol 2700K and shelve the 3770k until I can test it on a bench to get it to work consistently. mental note: never try to bench on an ITX rig. skull.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Can you try with the stock cooler if you still have it? Or just leave the CPU block about half a turn looser than you otherwise normally would tighten it?

i thought about doing that or using passive cooling to fiddle with it but i don't have time to mess with it now unfortunately. maybe in a couple months i'll come back to it. i've got a couple more 3770Ks I could try delidding but for obvious reasons i'm a little gunshy now.
 
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post #6030 of 33558
Quote:
Originally Posted by She loved E View Post

the saga continues...
got the machine to boot w/o cpu block. when i fastened the block (changing NOTHING else) it won't boot. madsmiley.png
does it make sense that its pressure-sensitive now that there's no adhesive between IHS & pcb? I'm using CLP on the die, btw.
have you by any chance nicked the die with the blade? other than that I think the PCB flexes when you tight the cooler strong enough and that might expose or disturb the nick in the corner?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tw33k View Post

Don't bother man. You'll just get frustrated
yeah, I gave up, used the ignore list for the first time in these forums hehe.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tw33k View Post

I have the exact same problem with one of my 3770Ks. I nicked the PCB and only 1 DIMM will work and I have to fiddle with the H100 mounting to get it to boot. I'm trying to get parts so I can set up a test bench to try to get this sorted.
wondering, have you guys both nicked the PCB in exact same spot? or rather similar area in same (or maybe other) corner? wondering if PCB flexes just enough when tightening it "strong enough" to cause some trouble to copper track exposed under the nick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickg1 View Post

Can you try with the stock cooler if you still have it? Or just leave the CPU block about half a turn looser than you otherwise normally would tighten it?
I think it might work, because the stock cooler brings a little pressure while most aftermarket coolers are able to tighten the CPU by a lot and I believe this can cause PCB flexing. just my 2 cents.
I have nicked the PCB on my last 3770K and exposed some length of copper along the IHS on the left side - haven't damaged the copper just scratched the protective layer above it somehow when fiddling with the blade. thankfully mine is not pressure sensitive after this and all seems to work perfectly fine after I used some silicone layer on the copper and then TIM.
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