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post #6871 of 33576
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swag View Post

Hahaha! I didn't even realize it sounded like that. tongue.gif Anyway, just for this project, my dad has bought over $1000 in new tools. They'll come in handy though when we renovate our kitchen and bathroom. tongue.gif Vertical saw, jigsaw, power drills, blades...! So many new things!
Anyway, when it comes out perfect, I'll take pictures of it!
What is a 'vertical saw'? Circular saw is vertical if you hold it that way tongue.gif
When cutting that stuff with jigsaw, go easy on the trigger....slow speed, new high tooth count blade, you should be fine.
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post #6872 of 33576
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teh Rav3n View Post

Happy New Years everyone! biggrin.gifthumb.gif
I'm a little drunk so bear with me. tongue.gif Sleeves are fine in a vertical orientation, and as long as you lube them well (I use Tri-Flow teflon light oil), sleeve bearings will last a good while horizontally mounted. Sure, they aren't ball bearing or whatever black magic fluid suspension method is currently in vogue. Although sleeve bushings are technically fluid (oil) suspension types too. However, they certainly don't seem loud to me. But then, I've ran 38mm Delta's/Mechatronics/etc many times in the past. That's subjective opinion though. They don't bother me a bit, & the Aquaero throttles them down very nicely at idle. At 50% fan rpm, the MCP-35X on my AD II is far, far louder even @ 15% of it's rated rpm. That said, I'd rather hear the fans than the high rpm ddc pump any day.
As for the durability: Idk yet, I'll get back to you on that one. Xinrulian makes quite a bit of fans, not just sleeve bushings (which is what they really are) models. Although the ones that XSPC markets are, the company that manufacture's them from makes many different models, and not just geared towards computers.
http://www.x-fan.com/doe/index.asp
As far as the specs, Ehume seems to think the world of them, and claims rated specs are accurate. Although he didn't test the static pressure rating, they do quite well according to him, outperforming the AP-15 for a pittance.
http://www.overclockers.com/xspc-xinruilian-fan
Not to mention they are pulling fine through my UT-60 right now, a rad with very high tube density & 9.6 FPI density. Finally, if they do in fact kick off, my Aquaero will auto shutdown the system while giving me a nice alarm for a warning. I still have a box full of Mechatronics BB 150 cfm 120 x 38's to back them up, just in case. Although, I really prefer the quiet environment that doesn't sound like a shopvac... No harm, no foul. wink.gif
whatever works for you man wink.gif hopefully they last long, but honestly if you need to lube it so it keeps working then LOLS!

I did my homework with sleeve "bearings" and never going back to those even though they can offer fantastic specs on a sheet of paper (or manufacturer website) ... and I used Japanese Scythe Slipstreams, not some Chinese Xinrulians wink.gif ... sleeve fans die, I used all of them vertically, as I said, first 2 died in 3 months, the other 5 in next 6 months, the last two I killed myself biggrin.gif
I trust only ball bearings and S-FDB, nothing else. it's too much PITA to drain the loop, remove radiator and so on to replce dead fans, that I trust things that have worked for everybody for years, Scythe GT Ap-15 and Scytke S-Flex 1,900rpm (I have both kinds in use).
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

i left my comp idle a while yesterday evening,
when i got back, it restarted, with a error..

The bugcheck was: 0x0000007e 0xffffffffc0000005 bla bla..
was looking for a answer, found this somewhere,
This error (7E) is usually a driver issue and display adapter (video) driver is the most suspect though
it could be others. Antivirus/antispyware/security programs, hardware (heat) and major software
issues can also cause the error.
its great to have windows tell you that something is wrong,
but then gives a zillion options to what it could be, if it does that...LOL
i think it could be my ram tho, i upped voltage from 1.5V to 1.55V,
and using xmp profile again, which i couldnt use a while ago,
before my latest bios update, xmp profile would set to

now the F16 bios sets xmp profile to (thats the right factory settings for my ram)

at least i thought it did, lately it sets it different then before

it did work all the time, not sure why i got a bsod, or reboot, wanst here when it happened..
timings without xmp profile

i did oc my 7970 to 1100/1500 instead of factory oc 1000/1375, but cant change voltage,
its about 1.170V, still looking for a way to get around that, ive read somewhere peeps using the Ghz edition bios, that runs on 1.25V..you guys think i could do that with my card?
BSOD 7E stands for corrupted OS files, could be a result of running an unstable memory
please run from elevated (admin) Command Prompt "SFC /scannow" to see if al system files are intact, this command will restore corrupted libraries from backups if it can.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PuffinMyLye View Post

Alright, got my new 3570K installed. Just applied a little AS5 on it and did a pre delid IBT test at 4.5. Temps are near where my delidded 3770K were at 5.0Ghz haha. Gonna do some OC testing over the next day to see if my chip is any good before I attempt to delid. This test was with a +.005 offset.
good deal bro you made, I read before biggrin.gif
enjoy your i5! so far looking good too biggrin.gif mind it should requrie less volts than i7 because there is no HyperThreading in it.
post #6873 of 33576
i would say 300€ max. But since i live in eastern Europe i don't have many parts to choose from.
i will buy some parts from another country but there are absolutely massive shipping fees.
For example this high performance thermnal paste you guys are talking about would cost me around 50€ if not more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

Cirov, what's your budget?
post #6874 of 33576
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swag View Post

2nd acrylic sheet: Failure!
I just bought another acrylic sheet and along with it, I bought a jigsaw and the blade for acrylic glass. If this is a failure again, I will just service a handyman to do it for me...
Don't do that, the project has become highly personal, don't give up on it. You were cutting too fast and didn't have the acrylic clamped down enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PuffinMyLye View Post

Hey Swag, no need to share all the details of your personal life biggrin.gif.
LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swag View Post

Hahaha! I didn't even realize it sounded like that. tongue.gif Anyway, just for this project, my dad has bought over $1000 in new tools. They'll come in handy though when we renovate our kitchen and bathroom. tongue.gif Vertical saw, jigsaw, power drills, blades...! So many new things!
Anyway, when it comes out perfect, I'll take pictures of it!
Keep trying, it will be much more meaningful if you do it yourself. And you will get your moneys worth out of those tools
Quote:
Originally Posted by ripsaw View Post

What is a 'vertical saw'? Circular saw is vertical if you hold it that way tongue.gif
When cutting that stuff with jigsaw, go easy on the trigger....slow speed, new high tooth count blade, you should be fine.
I think the vertical saw he is referring to is what I would call a band saw. It has a large band like blade that cuts from top to bottom and is belt driven.
post #6875 of 33576
A band saw would be great for cutting acrylic, with the proper toothed blade/band on it. It's like having a table-jigsaw. Like the difference between ripping on a table saw or with a circ saw. Much better results on the table saw if done correctly.
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post #6876 of 33576
Quote:
Originally Posted by feniks View Post

whatever works for you man wink.gif hopefully they last long, but honestly if you need to lube it so it keeps working then LOLS!
I did my homework with sleeve "bearings" and never going back to those even though they can offer fantastic specs on a sheet of paper (or manufacturer website) ... and I used Japanese Scythe Slipstreams, not some Chinese Xinrulians wink.gif ... sleeve fans die, I used all of them vertically, as I said, first 2 died in 3 months, the other 5 in next 6 months, the last two I killed myself biggrin.gif
I trust only ball bearings and S-FDB, nothing else. it's too much PITA to drain the loop, remove radiator and so on to replce dead fans, that I trust things that have worked for everybody for years, Scythe GT Ap-15 and Scytke S-Flex 1,900rpm (I have both kinds in use).


Thanks for the input on your experience, hopefully mine will be a better one.

You might want to do a bit more research on ball bearing fans. It is very rare that they are equipped with sealed ball bearings, and the unsealed variety requires lubrication as well. It's not to keep them "running" by the way, but a preventive maintenance I do on all of them that aren't sealed. Whether unsealed ball or sleeve, I always lube fans before installing. The engine in every somewhat modern vehicle uses sleeve bushings as well. Aside from user error (lack of maintenance usually), they tend to last a very long time too. The PTFE additive in the light oil I use bonds on the molecular level in crevices of the grain of the metal. Giving it a (relatively) permanent lubricant that remains effective, even long after the oil itself has run out.

Honestly though,if manufacturers were truly interested in long life spans, they'd all be using magnetic "bearings" instead of balls/roller/needle/sleeves/rifle/"fluid" suspensions.


Just so you know, Nidec's (Scythe's parent co.) manufacturing bases are in Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, the Philippines & China. Only Nidec's Scythe division corporate offices are in Japan.

http://www.nidec.co.jp/english/corporate/network/network02.html
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post #6877 of 33576
Quote:
Originally Posted by PuffinMyLye View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris-br View Post

Mine won't even boot at that vcore. lol

Haha touché. You think I just got lucky again or could it be my board possibly?

It could be your board. I know when I tried an MSI MPower Z77 I was able to get 4.5GHz stable at .05v lower than my two other boards. Other factors can contribute too, but I good board goes a long way.

I wonder, do you know if the person who got your first great chip was able to get the same low vcore performance out of it as you did? (If not, tell him to get a better MB! No refund needed!)
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post #6878 of 33576
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCWargamer View Post

It could be your board. I know when I tried an MSI MPower Z77 I was able to get 4.5GHz stable at .05v lower than my two other boards. Other factors can contribute too, but I good board goes a long way.
I wonder, do you know if the person who got your first great chip was able to get the same low vcore performance out of it as you did? (If not, tell him to get a better MB! No refund needed!)

Well it's shipping out tomorrow to the UK so I won't know his results for quite some time, I'll make sure he keeps that in mind though thumb.gif.
post #6879 of 33576
Quote:
Originally Posted by PuffinMyLye View Post

Haha touché. You think I just got lucky again or could it be my board possibly?
Interesting question.... I think i should try mine in some friends rigs....Nice that you got another good candidate for delid though! thumb.gif
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post #6880 of 33576
to be honest man, heh, this discussion is OT and moot at some point wink.gif
I am never going to lube fan bearings ever, same as I will never use again sleeve "bearings" of any kind ... just google user reported fan longevity of brands/models you like and I do and let's see for how long an "average user" (NOT the one who lubes bearings) enjoys them wink.gif
S-FDB seems to live the longest while being very quiet (aka Scythe GT fans), then you have ball bearings (more noisy) with their long lifetime ... on the very end of that list are sleeve "bearings" the cheapest and crappiest of designs ... they die very quickly when compared to ball bearings or (S-)FDB ... I had sleeve fans on CPU heatsink (Xigmatek) before, it silently died when I was asleep, not fun to wake up in morning and see 90C+ temps on idle CPU - same goes with rads, my CPU (and GPU) life depends on it, I am not going to use el cheapo fans to save a few bucks and find them stalled or performing at half speed max when I need them most. my rig runs 24/7 and have always been no matter what parts are inside (they change over time), it's been many years like that, I need reliability for that.

by all means, keep lubing them, that is fine with me if it suits you, but it doesn't work for me LOL! if bearing starts stalling then it's done, unreliable, worn out and I replace it (e.g. in my car) or replace the whole fan assembly since it's relatively cheap ... and I don't want to spare my precious time on repeatedly fixing a $3-5 fan(s) every few months ...
I'm not going into discussion of locations of corporate factories around the globe, it's meaningless - what I meant it was the DESIGN (NIDEC) that matters most, not the factory assembling parts according to the design and specs (however that does matter to some extent too).
wink.gif

That being said we have a few Toyotas in family, and as long as they are Japanese designs (very reliable cars given proper maintenance since they are years 2000, 2002, etc.), the OEM/replacement parts come from Japan, Thailand, Canada and USA .. all that doesn't matter much as long as they are made to original Japanese specs wink.gif

You don't have to agree with me, I don't have to agree with you, it's called democracy biggrin.gif to each its own! thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teh Rav3n View Post

Thanks for the input on your experience, hopefully mine will be a better one.
You might want to do a bit more research on ball bearing fans. It is very rare that they are equipped with sealed ball bearings, and the unsealed variety requires lubrication as well. It's not to keep them "running" by the way, but a preventive maintenance I do on all of them that aren't sealed. Whether unsealed ball or sleeve, I always lube fans before installing. The engine in every somewhat modern vehicle uses sleeve bushings as well. Aside from user error (lack of maintenance usually), they tend to last a very long time too. The PTFE additive in the light oil I use bonds on the molecular level in crevices of the grain of the metal. Giving it a (relatively) permanent lubricant that remains effective, even long after the oil itself has run out.
Honestly though,if manufacturers were truly interested in long life spans, they'd all be using magnetic "bearings" instead of balls/roller/needle/sleeves/rifle/"fluid" suspensions.
Just so you know, Nidec's (Scythe's parent co.) manufacturing bases are in Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, the Philippines & China. Only Nidec's Scythe division corporate offices are in Japan.
http://www.nidec.co.jp/english/corporate/network/network02.html
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