Cool, go for it man! You can always buy some Liquid Pro from sidewindercomputers.com and voila.
One day I might but I went with a 1.5g stick of PK-3 (and I got samples of pk1, pk2, and probably have 5 grams of thermal paste wiped off my gpu and doublewrapped in airtight bags for like junk applications when i re-tim'd my gpu...) because it seemed less extreme. I'm curious if liquid is even better than pk-3, I know it's better than pk-1 but pk-3 is significantly better than pk-1, like 3+ C* on just my phenom (which is 50's range, imagine with things like i5's where cpu is in the 80s, ie larger magnitudes of temps). You'd expect so, but given how much better pk3 is than pk1, I don't know if it's even a significant one.
Coollabotary's stuff is great but I know it's restrictive, from what I understand it damages aluminum (and I have a couple of those, and yes im aware that nickel plated copper or silver looking is not the same thing), so I went with a whole 1.5g (hey, that's like 10+ applications, it's a lifetime's supply basically) and I think it also damages copper (i might be wrong on that, but I think i read somewhere it does minor
copper damage) and also that it works well by melting things together (maybe im confusing it with indigo on that one)?
It's also very expensive (granted $22 for 2+ *C temp drops is actually a very fair price, especially given the quantity it's more like $2.20, although $20 for ~1.5g of TIM is ridiculously expensive for thermal paste but still cheap in the grand scheme of things, and 1.5g is still a lot of applications), whereas most 'standard' high performance pastes are like... $9 for a 5g tube, $4 for 1.5g tube, $7 for 3.5, kinda range. As I see it, I think PK-3 is the best 'normal' paste in that it doesn't have major issues, compability, or price issues. Not that you should be deterred if a paste is like conductive or anything, but just saying.
So maybe one day, or hell why not indigo extreme?, but the important thing, as I understand it, is rubbing off the glue, not what TIM you use.
quick OT question ... if my rig sometimes shuts down on its own at idle (once or twice a day so far) and then the power button is unresponsive until I power cycle the rocker switch on PSU ... does it mean the PSU is going out? as far as I can tell all voltages are normal when it runs (checked with multimeter via various plugs also with thin backprobe leads on hot terminals). it's a 9 month old Thermaltake ToughPower Grand 1050M.
Could be a million things, I've heard such issues when overclocking on i5. It could be an issue of idle/sleep voltages going too low to keep the CPU stable, for example (too high a vdroop or something, im not the expert on this). You could have faulty drivers too, power saving drivers, like AHCI version or s1/s3 sleep states. I'd start with bios, and/or stock settings.
PSUs can definitely fail, but in 9 months would be nothing short of a total lemon or some kind of manufacturing defect, and not normal. 1200w PSU is ridiculously overkill, even for SLI and overclock, a quality 550w+ should do fine on sli 670 + overclock (that would be the low end of it, granted, and you'd probably want a little more, but if you already have a quality 550w...).