And actually I didn't just say I thought z77 was better, but actually mentioned a few boards that couldn't clock ib chips past the 39x ratio.
spread for regular tims is worse, that's true (except for ic diamond and other diamond compounds or liquid metal which behaves like mercury lol)
I think gigabyte boards had an issue with going past 39x on the bios that came out when IB first came out. I believe it's been fixed, but I'm not sure (search results dont exactly bring a flood of "it's fixed and everything is fine!"). I think the whole p67/z68 issue is irrelevant now since I'm close enough to MC who has the $40 bundle reduction, which just makes the whole thing irrelevant. I might still consider buying like a p67/z68 (or z77 for that matter) on the cheap with like bent pins or some defect and take a gamble on that, but for the most part I think the p67/z68 thing doesnt matter anymore. Now if the sale goes away or something, maybe we can come back to that headache, but I'll just let sleeping dogs lie
Belial, it seems you like to be extra picky and cientific/methodical with your testing and everything ...do us a favor, when you get your IB cpu do the following:
-document your vcore, ambient, and core temps as displayed by real temp, for each core while running an IBT run as described on the first page (4.5ghz oc)
-calculate the delta temps of each core pre-delid.
-proceed to delid the chip and remove the glue.
-test temps with the stock intel tim without glue, calculate the delta and do the same with pk3. Try 3 applications or however you like for better accuracy, and calculate an average of the different attempts with each tim.
-use liquid ultra and do the same.
-use liquid pro and do the same.
(Use only pk3 for the ihs for ease of use)
That should give us really useful info with good methodology
I'm thinking not bothering with even running it without a delid, but I've been convinced I should make sure it's not DOA, and its easier to delid once the chip is a bit warmer. I dont know if I should be lazy and just run the stock cooler, or just do it right, pk3, nh-d14 mount with some sort of overclock, ie firstname.lastname@example.org (and not worry about fine tuning it at least).
Besides, what you guys would probably be more interested in, is PK-3 vs CL, in which case, if I do need more temp reduction, I will definitely not hesitate to buy CL (i can actually get it on amazon for $12 including shipping lol) and run a proper comparison between the two.