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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide - Page 865

post #8641 of 33692
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

fair enough smile.gif
now you have me thinking to revert back to stock, to save a few bucks on yearly bases ....LOL

when i joined here, i wanted to achieve a 4.5ghz oc, i thought that was ...wow,
then i uppped to 4.6 ..4.7...and now 4.8ghz biggrin.gif

i know i cant run 4.9ghz,
need 1.510V vcore to run stable, thats my personal limit for 24/7 use,
but i think if i would..hmm, it will run np for a few years..and prolly dont need more vcore by then to keep the same oc..

I would go as far as running stock for daily use and pumping up the clocks if needed for benching or a VERY demanding game...Stock on these Ivy chips is good enough for 90% of the things we do.
Now, if you got a spare chip, the sky is the limit biggrin.gif Being without your rig can get hard at times frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by feniks View Post

LOL, I know this sound, happened to two of my former older Thermaltake 1000W modular PSUs (W0132RU) ... it does sound like a gunshot LOL!
Sadly, I ve read enough about Corsair PSUs going haywire in recent months (I know the scale effect and fact that people mostly complain in troubleshooting forums) ... personally if my current PSU starts causing any trouble, I go with Seasonic next and nothing else.

Seasonic might be the smart thing to do, but Corsair does have a good customer support...Actually I would use whatever psu that had decent customer support and good price, whilst being tested as good by guys like Bobnova at OCF or JohnnyGuru/Oklahoma Wolf.
post #8642 of 33692
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

I would go as far as running stock for daily use and pumping up the clocks if needed for benching or a VERY demanding game...Stock on these Ivy chips is good enough for 90% of the things we do.
Now, if you got a spare chip, the sky is the limit biggrin.gif Being without your rig can get hard at times frown.gif
Seasonic might be the smart thing to do, but Corsair does have a good customer support...Actually I would use whatever psu that had decent customer support and good price, whilst being tested as good by guys like Bobnova at OCF or JohnnyGuru/Oklahoma Wolf.

i know, but i bought this 3770K and choose the K version to have it oced 24/7,
not to have it run at stock, and only up speed for benching,
if you look at it that way, i should have bought a 3570 without K,
and save me some money for others parts..lol..

i was so angry at intel back then, when i couldnt oc it even to 4.5ghz,
my temps where very bad as you know, 105C within seconds running prime..
i was like , ive spend 300 euro, and cant even get a nice oc out of it, dang you Intel...

so i took a very big risk, delid, i didnt have money for another cpu,
never delidded before, didnt even know the word or what it was..
even now, if anything goes wrong, im screwed..

i want to give my psu to my kiddo with the powerhungry amd8350,
im tempted to buy the 850W version of the xfx i have now,
but really looking at a seasonic too, even if it takes a bit longer to get the money,
my xfx is a very good one, reviews/tests show that, thats why i bought it back then,
but thats partly because it has parts in it from seasonic,
like alot of other psu's have..

this one,
Seasonic M12II 850W 80+ Bronze or Seasonic X-750 V2 80 Plus Gold(about 30 euro more)
or,
XFX ProSeries 850W XXX Edition
Edited by VonDutch - 1/16/13 at 8:31am
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post #8643 of 33692
Ups brings me stuff.. yay it is a real case.. owning a Cosmos2 it has been so long since i had a good case..


    
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GraphicsRAMHard DriveCooling
7950 w/ Alphacool block G.SKILL Trident X 2500mhz 2x4gb SanDisk Extreme 240gb sata III 6gbs x5 SwiftTech Apongee Drive II 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Monsta 360 86mm thick rad X 4 MCP 35X Pump x2 400ML Frozen Q Fusion res x3 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
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CatLeap 2560x1440 + Acer hn274h bmiiid 120hz 3D Logitech G19 Corsair Ax1200 watts  Mountain Mods Ascension 
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post #8644 of 33692
i see your kiddo is eager to start building it..lol..
cool hokies thumb.gif
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post #8645 of 33692
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt-Matt View Post

I haven't had any problems with windows prior to this.. Just randomly happens.
The RAM is solid and stable along with what I thought the CPU was, WHEA erorrs are CPU only or are they dependant on RAM failing too?

Like I said it was fine with the same settings back to 2-3 weeks ago. Same settings since..
From memory I'm running 46x Multi, 1.45v and 1.075v IMC Voltage. Everything else is on Auto/Manually set to whatever the "Normal" is.

Memory is at 9-10-10-21 1T @ 1866MHz with 1.525v or something, that is Prime95 stable too.. Same with the CPU.
I just get a few random WHEA errors in the mix because I made a pop-up box appear to give me a WHEA error. I'll try going to 1.452v soon and see what happens.. I'm kind of concerned. frown.gif
I guess I should be more concerned when IBT/Prime start getting errors though, errors that I can re-produce.

Oh and to add my 7950 is at 1100/1250MHz @ 1.162v that makes no difference really though tongue.gif

Temps on the 3570k never go past 70c also.. Oh well on a boiling hot day they peak at about ~75c with IBT but that doesn't count at all haha.

most of the time whea is vcore related as far as i know,
bet you are concerned, i would be too, but then i would just up vcore a notch to start with, and see if it solves the whea errors or not,
did you check Reliability Monitor for anything unusual?
Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Action Center\Reliability Monitor
or type stability in start, search box..


dinnertime smile.gif
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post #8646 of 33692
Quote:
ivanlabrie wrote......forget about peltiers, they were only good back in the Pentium 3 era or something, cause of the low tdp chips. They require a water loop to cool the hot side if you have a tec beefy enough for any kind of cpu cooling duty. Having a peltier in your res will cool the water by 1c maximum, and you'll need something hefty to cool the hot side, otherwise it won't work...it will overload and heat water instead and die. If you wanna cool the water in the res effectively you can later try modding an AC unit into a water chiller or maybe even go all the way and make it a single stage cooler.

Thanks smile.gif - I just started to look at Peltiers online, and it was a bit fishy that I seem to need s.th. like 500+ extra watts to make it work at the temps I was looking for, but I id not know enough about Peltiers

- Well, I better don't start mentioning 'oil-cooled' solutions, i.e. submerged in an aquarium of mineral oil...on the one hand, it has a fundamental advantage in that it gets to EVERYTHING on the board, PSU etc. On the other, I have actually seen it done and it involved prepping with a lot of silicon spray everywhere, and once it was filled, one pretty much had no options to exchange anything within reason

- That leaves the little ($90) Igloo mini-fridge idea, i.e run a switchable T-valve on the custom water loop to a 3/8th copper pipe coil and cooling fins inside the mini fridge, then back to the main rig. I have an extra Igloo fridge like that, and it even has a mini freezer on top that really will freeze a steak...biggrin.gif
post #8647 of 33692
Hello smile.gif

Per earlier discussion, I had a chance to run some more stress and temp tests at 4.8, 4.9 and 5.0 GHz (pics below).

I know the voltages are 'good' to begin with and there may be a little bit left on the table...no excuses, but I loath BSODs, not least as my system has 32 GB which need to dump and both very large SQL DBs and also a RamDisk...and while I just added a SSD, I have not yet transferred the OS to it - all that means that after a BSOD, the system will rattle on rebuilding RamDisks etc for quite a while...and I already read 'War and Peace' biggrin.gif

I like to add that I also took great care in the thermal design of the rig, especially as it is in a smaller case (Antec 302). I borrowed a construction contractor friend's LIDAR /Thermal Imaging camera a few months back and looked for hot spots with / without side panels. As a result - and may be you can use this as a tip - I installed a 120mm fan on the 'backside' of the MB - the ANtec 302 has a perfect opening there...the fan flows about as much as a Noctua NF-P12 (which sits on the other side panel cooling the SLI GPUs) but has less than half the depth...it shoots straight at the backside of the CPU PCB and also the VRMs from the back

Also, I use a slightly different method to set up the Bios etc., it is not quite finalized yet (and in any case, based on the superb Ivy OC guide on this site). Once I finalize my mods on that, I will share..

Thanks again for all your feedback so far thumb.gif



post #8648 of 33692
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

most of the time whea is vcore related as far as i know,
bet you are concerned, i would be too, but then i would just up vcore a notch to start with, and see if it solves the whea errors or not,
did you check Reliability Monitor for anything unusual?
Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Action Center\Reliability Monitor
or type stability in start, search box..


dinnertime smile.gif

yes, WHEA is strictly related to vcore being too low for the stress at given moment. however there is one more variable to that - BIOS. I see that all newer ASUS MVE BIOSes are slightly less stable or "variable" between warm restarts. it may be (and probably is) that BIOS adjusts some automatic settings in a slightly different way during warm restart then it does during cold start, namely I am talking about "Skews" related to BCLK and CPU vcore. I believe adjusting those manually makes the floating stable vcore more stable ... or one could just up it a bit (2 notches is usually enough) to compensate for fluctuations and leave those settings on auto.

One thing to know if degradation occurred in real, is to shutdown the comp, cu the power let it discharge or even let components cool down a bit, then boot it up to lowest recorded OC config from past (I hope you all have notes with your OC configs and settings written down that made it stable under e.g. Cinebench) and compare at exactly same manner as recorded (that also implies using the same BIOS revision). degradation usually occurs at base voltage, which means across all OC speeds always calling for more vcore than in past.
post #8649 of 33692
I've been thinking about delidding but I get nervous about the static electricity messing my chip. Will it be safe to use medical latex gloves while delidding?
post #8650 of 33692
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joa3d43 View Post

Thanks smile.gif - I just started to look at Peltiers online, and it was a bit fishy that I seem to need s.th. like 500+ extra watts to make it work at the temps I was looking for, but I id not know enough about Peltiers

- Well, I better don't start mentioning 'oil-cooled' solutions, i.e. submerged in an aquarium of mineral oil...on the one hand, it has a fundamental advantage in that it gets to EVERYTHING on the board, PSU etc. On the other, I have actually seen it done and it involved prepping with a lot of silicon spray everywhere, and once it was filled, one pretty much had no options to exchange anything within reason

- That leaves the little ($90) Igloo mini-fridge idea, i.e run a switchable T-valve on the custom water loop to a 3/8th copper pipe coil and cooling fins inside the mini fridge, then back to the main rig. I have an extra Igloo fridge like that, and it even has a mini freezer on top that really will freeze a steak...biggrin.gif

You're naming a few ideas that people regularly have...yet they don't work. It's simple, a mini freezer is mostly based around a peltier, and is designed to cool stuff that doesn't actively emit heat, like a steak. thumb.gif
What happens when you put something hot that keeps emitting heat inside it? You overload it, and it dies...Same with a regular fridge: the compressor is not strong enough nor reliable to run 24/7, let alone a few hours really. You need an AC unit and modding it to cool the cpu directly or a reservoir. That's the only way around it. thumb.gif
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