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post #9681 of 33389
The small blobs on the die are dried on, so I can use this wipe that came with the liquid pro to rub the actual die clean? And use the same die to clean the interior of the IHS?
post #9682 of 33389
I dont have the "Pad" near me, but aint it a "Scratch" pad ? And if so, would it be wise to use on the die ?

Nevermind, we are talking about the alcohol wipe - Yah, you can use it on the die and the IHS - Just turn it around and use the clean side.
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post #9683 of 33389
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomi View Post

Following this close - When you are done cleaning the PRO off, mind describing how you did it ?

I dont see any problem with the IHS (Just use the pad included) - But the die is my big question. Your "Small blobs on the die" is just what I expected would happen, and have no clue on how to remove (Other than maybe get an syringe and suck them up?).

but if its hardened , you cant suck it up again, and why cant you use the included scrub pad on the die? its glass so..its harder then the metal ihs right smile.gif

edit,
i just tried the scrubbing pad on a window, scrubbed really hard on a small area,
cleaned it...it had (little) scratches ...so im thinking not good to use on the die,
or be careful when you use it..
makes me curious tho, to take mine apart again, and see how or whats the best way to get it of the die,
first need to order some new liquid, Ultra this time..also thinking to buy the cleaning kit from coollabs,
and try that with the pro..

The set contains three components, which provide an excellent cleaning when using correctly.
Phase 1: Preparation
Phase 2: Cleaner
Phase 3: Metal Cleaner
The Liquid Cleaning Set - Phase 3 was designed especially for metallic surfaces (copper, nickel, aluminum etc.)

costs 9.90 euro..
Edited by VonDutch - 1/24/13 at 7:14am
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post #9684 of 33389
Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDutch View Post

edit,
i just tried the scrubbing pad on a window, scrubbed really hard on a small area,
cleaned it...it had (little) scratches ...so im thinking not good to use on the die,
or be careful when you use it..

Why didnt I see this bit prior to using it on my die! It cleaned the tim off its got some small scratches on the surface of the die now, but its booted ok!
post #9685 of 33389
Quote:
Originally Posted by $ilent View Post

Why didnt I see this bit prior to using it on my die! It cleaned the tim off its got some small scratches on the surface of the die now, but its booted ok!

the toplayer is thick enough, so no harm done, when i tried on the window, the scratches werent deep,
and i rubbed really hard too..

sorry i didnt try on time, the idea just came to mind, when we talked about it
but you got it all off? with the scrubpad?

grocery..bbl..
Edited by VonDutch - 1/24/13 at 7:20am
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post #9686 of 33389
Yeah got all the LP off with the scrub pad then used the alcohol wipes to clean it off and cleaned the inside of the IHS too.

My temps seem strange, maybe its cause I'm using new prime95 with avx and its harder on the cpu. At 5ghz, 1.37v max temp 77c.
post #9687 of 33389
So is the values telling us Ultra has a higher heat transfer rate than Pro or is it the lower the better for those values?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomi View Post

Yum yum!



To bad they are all 2700K, lol.

Only Batch number that is "different" is this one:



Will fire them up and do a quick bin later tomorrow smile.gif

Oh, got RAM ?


Can you briefly explain the process of binning and what the real goal and gain is for buying mass of components?

Thanks.
post #9688 of 33389
Quote:
Originally Posted by $ilent View Post

Yeah got all the LP off with the scrub pad then used the alcohol wipes to clean it off and cleaned the inside of the IHS too.

My temps seem strange, maybe its cause I'm using new prime95 with avx and its harder on the cpu. At 5ghz, 1.37v max temp 77c.

new? im using prime95 v277 atm, with avx i think
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiamondCut View Post

So is the values telling us Ultra has a higher heat transfer rate than Pro or is it the lower the better for those values?

higher w/mk is better smile.gif
Edited by VonDutch - 1/24/13 at 8:41am
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post #9689 of 33389
The Citrus based solvents are great (Goo Gone Spray gel is a favorite of mine), just make sure you then clean off the solvent with 90% or higher alcohol afterwards since the citrus solvents are mostly oil based.
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post #9690 of 33389
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiamondCut View Post

So is the values telling us Ultra has a higher heat transfer rate than Pro or is it the lower the better for those values?
Can you briefly explain the process of binning and what the real goal and gain is for buying mass of components?

Thanks.

From HWBOT (And the way I do SB):

Binning Sandy Bridge is extremely easy.

- use HS fan with easy mounting
- set Vcore to 1.55V
- disable EIST, C1E and C-States
- disable HT and 2 cores (to not make it overheat with crappy HSF)
- increase multiplier

You just need to see the windows OS options, not actually boot into windows. If your CPU can show the different OS options, stability will just be function of Vcore and temperature. If it doesn't show the OS options, you will never get it stable anyways, so you might as well ditch the CPU.

Usually, it takes about 5 minutes to see if the CPU is good or not.

With some CPUs, you do have the issue that some multiplier is better than the other for stability. For instance, my current CPU can boot at 51x MAX (~ 5145MHz). When trying to run near this max speed, I have to use 49x instead of 50x multiplier because it's a lot more stable.

But, that's something you don't need to test. With BCLK adjustments, you'll never get 5200MHz going or so. Multiplier binning is the best way.


Mind you though, I dont sell these - I purely bin them as a hobby and nothing else.

People like Kingpin more or less lives of it though, or at least its a very profitable side-income. He just had a whole bunch of different binned 3770Ks for sale - Best one went for 999 USD and the lowest was around the 400 USD mark.
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