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New Bios update for gigabyte HD7950 ! - Page 35

post #341 of 1324
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadlessKnight View Post

Yes 015.029.000.003.000000 is FZ1.
F43 will make your card run at lower voltage but it will run at 900 MHz instead of 1 GHz. (you will lose around 8-10% performance)
And probably if you tried 1 GHz on 1093mV or 1031mV your card most of the time might not be able to cut it at those low volts, so you will have to find your OC manually.
I am not sure if F43 will work with your card but mostly it will...
Because F42, F43 & FZ1 all work flawlessly for me, but I have to say my card is shipped with F42 BIOS.
Also what are your temperatures on the core & vrm with FZ1?
Okay temps are only around 70c on stock but 50mhz overclock on core and 25mhz on memory and temps rise to 80ish.
VRM was in some point something ridiculously high 110c maybe but fans were on low and it was kombustor on fullscreen. In other benches(BF3ultra preset w/o fps cap, unigine) the vrm was maybe 80-90c.
It doesn't matter that much even if i lose some in performance as long as temps come down a little.
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post #342 of 1324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pebruska View Post

Okay temps are only around 70c on stock but 50mhz overclock on core and 25mhz on memory and temps rise to 80ish.
VRM was in some point something ridiculously high 110c maybe but fans were on low and it was kombustor on fullscreen. In other benches(BF3ultra preset w/o fps cap, unigine) the vrm was maybe 80-90c.
It doesn't matter that much even if i lose some in performance as long as temps come down a little.

110 C is pretty high. The card won't reach that in normal loads even in summer. So my advice for the longevity of your card to stay away from Furmark, OCCT, Kombustor ... etc. As they put unrealistic load on the card and can easily push it beyond its limits. You were lucky Kumbustor didn't crack the VRMs for you during the test...
Also before flashing make sure you make a backup of your original BIOS and put it in a safe place ...
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post #343 of 1324
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadlessKnight View Post

110 C is pretty high. The card won't reach that in normal loads even in summer. So my advice for the longevity of your card to stay away from Furmark, OCCT, Kombustor ... etc. As they put unrealistic load on the card and can easily push it beyond its limits. You were lucky Kumbustor didn't crack the VRMs for you during the test...
Also before flashing make sure you make a backup of your original BIOS and put it in a safe place ...
Will do, thanks.
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post #344 of 1324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belkov View Post

.By the way King, you were right - i have increased stability on OC-ing with 13.2 beta4 drivers.
Before i could stabilized 1100/1500MHz with 1.2V. Now i can stabilized 1100/1500MHz with 1.175V. I'm with F43 bios version.

So, with 13.2beta4... lower volts with same clocks or higher clocks with same volts? I'm on F3 (card came with F3) @1200/1250 with the 1.250 stock volts of that BIOS.
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post #345 of 1324
Sell them all and go for the Asus/MSI versions.

No more problems concerning the lazzy BIOS.
post #346 of 1324
Is AtiWinFlash good way to flash or do i have to use atiflash in dos?
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post #347 of 1324
Best through dos.
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post #348 of 1324
Quote:
Originally Posted by King4x4 View Post

Best through dos.
Sigh. so what do i do? What's the command to flash?
- Too lazy to use google.
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post #349 of 1324
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang View Post

So, with 13.2beta4... lower volts with same clocks or higher clocks with same volts? I'm on F3 (card came with F3) @1200/1250 with the 1.250 stock volts of that BIOS.
Lower volts with the same clock. Before i did 1100/1500 with around 1.2V, now it's stable only with 1.175V. But i'm just trying because i am using the card on stock usualy so i tested only for couple of hours.
post #350 of 1324
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang View Post

So, with 13.2beta4... lower volts with same clocks or higher clocks with same volts? I'm on F3 (card came with F3) @1200/1250 with the 1.250 stock volts of that BIOS.

With all honesty. Most of the time across all the GPUs I've owned. Drivers have little to no impact on rock stable (100%) overclocks, neither for the Green nor for the Red.
The overclocks that are claimed to become less stable with newer drivers most of the time are not really stable originally even with the old drivers or haven't been tested long enough.
I am sure a lot of those OCs will fall when tested (regardless of drivers) with demanding games like Crysis 2 DX11 (Ultra), Crysis Warhead or Battlefield 3.
The OC capability is dependent on the chip itself not software.
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