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Trouble with Desoldering DC power jack on my laptop

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I am trying to desolder a DC power jack off of my laptop. I am not making much progress. This is a decent laptop that I dont want to break and would really appreciate any advice on what I should avoid if I dont want to break it. I have 0 experience with desoldering.

This is the soldering Iron I have: Cheap Soldering Kit
Here is a youtube video of a guy (french) removing the DC jack from the exact same laptop I have: DC Jack Video ..... he has a heat gun


Summary
  • Have 25 watt soldering iron
  • Cant remove DC jack


A) Whats the cheapest way to desolder this?
B) If I need to get a better gun which would you recomend: amazon list
C) What is the safest/most paranoid way to desolder this? .... i dont mind taking an extra 1/2hr to be safe


Thanks for any advice!
post #2 of 13
Thread Starter 
I am thinking of buying one of these:
heat gun
soldering gun
post #3 of 13
Heat gun will help and be easier but you need concentrate it on that area. Use a pair of tweezers to hold the jack so you can move it when warm, you are going to need clean up the extra solder on the board before putting the new one on and a soldering wic will be sufficient.

I used a heat gun on a crosshair v when one the small chips weren't attached, used crocodile clip to hold it and heated it up, the solder was already on the pads as looked like it was ripped off by the box
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post #4 of 13
A)
By using a blow torch very carefully, Ben Heck will show you how to do this very quickly here.

B)
If you really wanted to buy a hot air rework station, the Atten 852D and 858D are pretty good and reasonably priced, but are fairly specialised bits of kit. (Not on your amazon list though) Plus you will need to make sure they are the 110V US versions.

C)
Ideally, you want to do it as fast as possible. The hotter the PCB gets, the more likely it is that traces will be lifted.

I would say go with the Ben Heck method as you can concentrate the heat into a fairly small area with a butane torch.
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post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies guys.

The torch method looks terrifying haha. What kind of torch or heat gun should I get? I dont want to use something thats too hot and would like to do it as cheap as possible since I dont plan on doing much soldering in the future. Most of the cheap options I am looking at dont tell you how hot they will get.
post #6 of 13
I almost always use cheap solder to add to the existing solder joints to "soften" it up before sucking out the solder. By cheap my cheap lead and flux laden old school solder, and the lead and flux really help with the soldering. Hopefully that tip helps, i'm off to go eat paint chips and count letters. wheee.gif

EDIT: I use a cheap Hakko chisel tip on a cheap Chinese SMD station. I use max temps (>400C) but, i have practice.
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post #7 of 13
Use a regular soldering iron and a 'sucker' aka desoldering pump.

Add a blob of solder to the tabs that stick out under the connector, and very quickly suck the solder out. Rinse and repeat until you get all the solder out. With a bit of practice you shall do it on the 1st attempt.

Jacks can be a bit of a PITA because the tabs are rather large.


Just don't overheat the soldering iron (the tracks on the PCB will be destroyed with excessive heat) and everything will be okay.
   
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post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
My original attempt was the add some solder and use a pump to get it out but after two nights of trying this I didnt get much done.
post #9 of 13
Well like i said i use some average low grade solder and high temps. It really depends on the board if it has high temp solder then it's okay to use high temps but, you still can't keep the iron on there forever. You can use high temps on board with low temp solder but, you have to be very quick as you run the risk of burning up the tracks.
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post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
I did it! Now I need to clean off the old solder and add new solder. It looks like most of the solder stayed on the motherboard. The solder that came with the cheap gun is lead free... (99.3% tin / 0.7% copper). What kind of solder should I use? Any tips to make sure I do it right the first time?





On the copper part of the old jack you can see a punch of crap on the tip.




Quote:
Originally Posted by cdoublejj View Post

Well like i said i use some average low grade solder and high temps. It really depends on the board if it has high temp solder then it's okay to use high temps but, you still can't keep the iron on there forever. You can use high temps on board with low temp solder but, you have to be very quick as you run the risk of burning up the tracks.

How do I know what kind of board/solder do I have?
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