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UPS battery backup for 55 gallon fish tank. - Page 2

post #11 of 27
Get the largest UPS you can afford, pretty much. And yes, I recommend running the lights on the surge sockets, not the battery. Fish can live without light, they can't survive in dirty or stagnant water.

Still though, keep in mind that even an extremely large UPS won't keep it running for more than 30 minutes to a couple hours. If there's an actual power outage then you're going to just have to hope for the best. I'd recommend changing the water manually to make up for the filter. Unless it's salt water; then you're screwed.
post #12 of 27
Thread Starter 
Its freshwater tropical. So no saltwater.

Here are the voltages for the items I am using. *Copied from the sites of the items*

(Filter) The Fluval 306 runs on an economical 15 watts and has
a flow rate turnover of 255 Gallons / 1150 Litres per hour.

(Heater) Site says 150w for 55 gallon tank.

(Air pump) 6 Watts
• Rated for up to 15 air operated ornaments, filters, & airstones
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post #13 of 27
Best bet is to get a unit and do a test run.
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post #14 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post

Get the largest UPS you can afford, pretty much. And yes, I recommend running the lights on the surge sockets, not the battery. Fish can live without light, they can't survive in dirty or stagnant water.
Still though, keep in mind that even an extremely large UPS won't keep it running for more than 30 minutes to a couple hours. If there's an actual power outage then you're going to just have to hope for the best. I'd recommend changing the water manually to make up for the filter. Unless it's salt water; then you're screwed.

this is why i had my tank custom drilled out for my freshwater fish, a friend of mine builds tanks for a living, nothing like having an auto water change cycle that can also be done manually via 2 valves.

in my experience, mine is on a back-UPS 1500, goes about an hour and 20 minutes before it dies, on a 70 gallon tank. thats with no lights, just air pump/filter/heater
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post #15 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsm106 View Post

Best bet is to get a unit and do a test run.

Yes, you can always return it if you buy it locally too. thumb.gif
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post #16 of 27
Thread Starter 
No local places sell "Big" UPS like I need, They are all little ones. So I will probably be going with amazon or newegg.
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post #17 of 27
Agreed that no matter how big the UPS don't expect the kind of runtime you mentioned - an hour or two is the most you'll get, because if you massively over-spec the UPS, you'll run into the problem that inverters are very inefficient at low loads so you'll still drain the batteries quite quickly.
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post #18 of 27
do you already have a ups?
if not you can get a used one, provided it still works and charges a battery.
then to prolong the life you can get a sealed battery, like http://www.optimabatteries.com

make sure that the battery you are using is the same voltage as the one inside the UPS. i would figure they would be 12v..
you want a sealed battery because the others leak toxic fumes.

with a car battery you'll have a lot more time.

just for example.
the APC Back-UPS ES 550VA - APC BE550G has eight surge-protected power outlets total, with four offering battery backup. Backup runs for three minutes at full load (330W) and 13 minutes at half (165W)
the internal battery is 12v at 7ah (amp hours)
if you took out that battery and hooked up the yellow top optima battery you would have 12v at 75ah
the amp hours are the longevity of the battery from max charge to dead. smaller batteries that go into remotes, flashlights, or other devices are rated in mAH (milliampere-hours).

so in this example you would have about 10.71 times the "out of power" backup time.
so for 330w you would get 30mins, and at 165w you would have 140mins
you will be using about 171w, for safety sake well just round up to 200w
Quote:
(Filter) The Fluval 306 runs on an economical 15 watts and has
a flow rate turnover of 255 Gallons / 1150 Litres per hour.

(Heater) Site says 150w for 55 gallon tank.

(Air pump) 6 Watts
• Rated for up to 15 air operated ornaments, filters, & airstones

you will want 3 of those yellow top batteries running in parallel. this will give you 225ah at 12v
at 200w you will roughty get about 5.62hrs of "out of power" run time.
if it truly only uses 171w total, you will see 6.57hr run time before the batteries are dead.

quick bit about batteries
in this example we will use a 3.7v lithium battery
when you charge a 3.7v lithium battery, they charge up to 4.2v, as the battery is used the voltage drops.
lithium batteries should never be drained past 20% battery life. (helpful tip to keep from replacing cell phone batteries)
lithium ion batteries usually have a protective circut on the battery if they are something like a 18650 or other size, cell phone batteries don't have them.
what this chip does is keeps from over charging past 4.2v and keeping you from using the battery when it gets below 2.7 - 2.9v

with the battery tip in mind, i would advise going 4 batteries in parallel.
this is if you will be running all of those items in the quoted bit above.
incase you arent aware, batteries hookeed in parallel, all of the + terminals are hooked together in one chain. all the - terminals are hooked together in a chain. this makes one large battery with the same voltage as one battery but a longer run time.
series is like a flashlight that uses more than one battery, what that does is doubles the voltage, the amp hour stays the same as using a single battery.
you can also run batteries in series then parallel them.. but this is unneeded info.

here is an illistration of the two "parallel" and "series", again with a 12v battery using the same apc unit you would run them in parallel


this is an expensive build, yellow top batteries are around $110 new.
you need sealed if you will have it inside your house so getting around a sealed battery IS NOT an option
if you would/could run the batteries outside, you could use a cheaper 12v battery that is not sealed.
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post #19 of 27
I bought an old RM1250 5U APC unit on ebay, and run it on two optima bluetops (the 55AH model). I get around 45 minutes of run time at 80% load (750W)...

Yellow top isn't needed as 40A @ 24V = 960W, no vibration or high current draw, just deep cycling.

OP they make APC units with external battery packs -
e.g.
http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_BR1500G.htm?pid=1000&utm_source=fgl&utm_medium=prodlist&utm_term=BR1500G
http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/dept_id_133/model_BR24BPG.htm?sid=ABDBABFB825FBC394202952DCC51BA46
 
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post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jollyriffic View Post

do you already have a ups?
if not you can get a used one, provided it still works and charges a battery.
then to prolong the life you can get a sealed battery, like http://www.optimabatteries.com
make sure that the battery you are using is the same voltage as the one inside the UPS. i would figure they would be 12v..
you want a sealed battery because the others leak toxic fumes.
with a car battery you'll have a lot more time.
just for example.
the APC Back-UPS ES 550VA - APC BE550G has eight surge-protected power outlets total, with four offering battery backup. Backup runs for three minutes at full load (330W) and 13 minutes at half (165W)
the internal battery is 12v at 7ah (amp hours)
if you took out that battery and hooked up the yellow top optima battery you would have 12v at 75ah
the amp hours are the longevity of the battery from max charge to dead. smaller batteries that go into remotes, flashlights, or other devices are rated in mAH (milliampere-hours).
so in this example you would have about 10.71 times the "out of power" backup time.
so for 330w you would get 30mins, and at 165w you would have 140mins
you will be using about 171w, for safety sake well just round up to 200w
you will want 3 of those yellow top batteries running in parallel. this will give you 225ah at 12v
at 200w you will roughty get about 5.62hrs of "out of power" run time.
if it truly only uses 171w total, you will see 6.57hr run time before the batteries are dead.
quick bit about batteries
in this example we will use a 3.7v lithium battery
when you charge a 3.7v lithium battery, they charge up to 4.2v, as the battery is used the voltage drops.
lithium batteries should never be drained past 20% battery life. (helpful tip to keep from replacing cell phone batteries)
lithium ion batteries usually have a protective circut on the battery if they are something like a 18650 or other size, cell phone batteries don't have them.
what this chip does is keeps from over charging past 4.2v and keeping you from using the battery when it gets below 2.7 - 2.9v
with the battery tip in mind, i would advise going 4 batteries in parallel.
this is if you will be running all of those items in the quoted bit above.
incase you arent aware, batteries hookeed in parallel, all of the + terminals are hooked together in one chain. all the - terminals are hooked together in a chain. this makes one large battery with the same voltage as one battery but a longer run time.
series is like a flashlight that uses more than one battery, what that does is doubles the voltage, the amp hour stays the same as using a single battery.
you can also run batteries in series then parallel them.. but this is unneeded info.
here is an illistration of the two "parallel" and "series", again with a 12v battery using the same apc unit you would run them in parallel

this is an expensive build, yellow top batteries are around $110 new.
you need sealed if you will have it inside your house so getting around a sealed battery IS NOT an option
if you would/could run the batteries outside, you could use a cheaper 12v battery that is not sealed.

A few things jolly - the reason for the non-linear run time on full power is the 7AH battery loses a lot of power to internal resistance. if you're using a car/forklift battery, it does not scale like it does with a little battery - you'd get much better full load run time with a larger (more AH) battery.

a 330W load is a lot to ask of a single 12V 7AH battery (nearly 30 amps), while it's peanuts to a 55AH deep cycle AGM battery. to get a similarly scaled run time off of a 55AH battery, you'd need to pull something like 150A or more out of it.

Why did you use rechargeable lithium in your example? I know of no stationary UPS systems using anything but lead acid batteries. Light weight isn't an advantage if it's not moving, and lead acid batteries generally age better than Li-ion when on float most of the time.

There is no need to use sealed batteries in-doors. Using standard flooded batteries is quite common in PV systems for energy storage - all you need to do is not dump it on yourself, and avoiding holding a lighter to the vent while it's charging is probably a good idea. The major benefit to sealed batteries (I'm a big fan of AGM construction) is that the terminals don't gunk up from condensing acid on the terminals.

Also, you have to check each UPS to see what voltage battery pack it uses - most of the dinky ones use 7AH 12V sealed batteries, as they are common and rather cheap. Once you go beyond 500W, they usually have two 12V batteries in series - otherwise the current draw becomes a liability. Some of the larger units (2U full depth 3kW ups) use 120v battery packs - a tray of 10, 12V batteries in series - keeps currents quite manageable.
The only time I see series parallel setups are in moderate to large sized UPS units with external battery packs (extended runtime stuff) - these are often 24V packs - one inside the UPS, and one or more externally. the 900RM 5U model similar to my 1250RM could run up to 4 external battery packs for serious runtime.
Edited by u3b3rg33k - 10/16/12 at 12:49am
 
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