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Logitech G710+ Disassembly and Modification [56k warning] - Page 7

post #61 of 101
Even if it's a gift you can go to Logitech directly. You don't need an invoice
post #62 of 101
i was inspired by this thread (or was it annoyed by the orange?). in any case, i decided that the orange had to go (looked out of place) and replaced with red to match my setup.

i waited about 2 weeks to make sure there were no issues with LEDs going out, etc.

after 3 light coats of cherry red and 2 light clear coats, i think the end result is pretty good! to disassemble was pretty straight forward... removed screws on back, used flat head and cloth to remove/pop clips. removal of orange piece was just as described in OP.

big thanks and rep to hammerforged!


Broken Clip: rolleyes.gif


After Painting (lighting makes color appear to be "off" a little):


Finished Result:


Closer Look:


On Desk:


Closer Look:


Setup 1:


Setup 2:
Shaolin10
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Shaolin10
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LIAN LI Lancool PC-K56  Cooler Master CM Storm Spawn Roccat Sense High Precision Gaming Mousepad Steelseries Spectrum 5xB 
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Samsung SyncMaster SA350 iHome IH-K241LS Wireless Keyboard Allied 350W PSU XION XON-560 
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post #63 of 101
Thread Starter 
Looks great! Glad to see some people taking advantage of this guide!
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RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
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post #64 of 101
Nice colors everyone. No luck with my LED's, broke the board all the way down and tried removing, testing, and then resetting the resistor for that line of LED's that is off (0-draw a line through-Page Up). The resistor was fine, it was also so small my more exp'd friend did it for me. It tested exactly like the other resistors did, 150 ohms. + or - 1%. But my Voltage for that line of LED's is 8V when the others are all something less (5V i think), have no idea about that one, maybe the V is higher just because there's nothing causing it to drop to 5. The LED's are also ok themselves, so it's not a "christmas light" scenario. I am out of ideas. The PCB is SUPER cramped because of the anti-ghosting and LEDs. Its hard enough just to trace lines with my eyes. And as far as an RMA, that's the wuss way out. I wanna FIX something. ESPECIALLY because it was a gift.

Cool colors, knowing the 2 glossy parts are separate from the rest (not just the oarnge) makes me wanna color mine too. Crimson and White was a nice suggestion from someone.

The light leaking through somebody's keys' edges is the paint rubbing off of the keys. Note the different underside color to the keys' plastic. A great many of us will soon have BRIGHT WASD keys and probably some side-thumb prints on the spacebar. If it came like that out of the box, then it's been awfully roughly handled (or maybe i'm just not in a super dark room to see the light peaking through).

Ok i answered 2 peoples' questions now. SOMEONE fix their LEDs and post here please!!!
post #65 of 101
hella sick boards! smile.gif
post #66 of 101
That red board is looking sexy!
As for the led's and the keys - cheers fort he info +rep
post #67 of 101
Since you've opened this keyboard apart. Do you know if the Space bar / Shift stabilizers are made by CoStar or Cherry? I'm asking this is because I really dont like the one made by Cherry cause it's not as responsive as the Costar. The keyboards that have the CoStar style space bar are Cooler master Quickfire Rapid / TK / Pro, Mionix Zibal 60, Filco, Rosewill, Razer Blackwidow, etc.
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post #68 of 101
Just wondering if some one could possibly get some Hi-Res, sharp, and in focus pictures of the PCB and chips on the PCB. I Just got a G710+ and while I like it for the most part, I'm considering of buying one of these http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=114&cp_id=11401&cs_id=1140102&p_id=9433&seq=1&format=2 and changing the internals of all the but the G# keys to blues. I know it probably seems odd but for what ever reason out of all the Cherry keys I've tried I really like the blues the best. But I'm afraid of opening my keyboard or doing the mod which would require me to de-solder the LEDs to take apart the switches, in case my back lights fails and I have to RMA to fix it instead of repairing it my self.

Mainly I'm trying to see what chips they use for possible PWM LED lighting since that makes the most sense for getting the variable brightness levels. If what John said is the case above where the LEDs were fine and the resistors were fine, it leaves the actual power drivers to be at fault be it bad chips or poorly designed circuit causing chips to fail. assuming they are not using a some sort of Atmel microcontroller like the ATMEGA to do it all and it's a firmware/circuit design issue. Also want to see if there might be a way to by-pass the built in PWM with a separate home made PWM LED driver circuit to replace the built in circuit if it fails.
post #69 of 101
that thing is a hell of a lot easier to break down than my g15 v1. good to see i can pop that front off to make it match my white theme, i want a mechanical keyboard so bad :x
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post #70 of 101
Thanks for the inspiration, hammerforged. I painted mine flat black on the body and flat grey on the two bezels.

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