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[Build Log] Beginner's Luck - X79 Build - Page 6

post #51 of 286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socketus View Post

In the bios, can you turn off that error message ? Hmm, you don't have any fan plugged into the mobo's cpu fan header do ya ?
That would be why you get the error message.

I have the fan on the cpu-heatsink connected to the CPU fan header.

Supposedly this error is a false positive, happens when the readings on the cpu fan drop below 600 rpm. Seeing as the fan on the heatsink runs ~630rpm, I can definitely imagine that after a period of rest, the system may be reading this fan's rpm before it's had the chance to get up to speed. Supposedly, you disable Qfan in the bios for this option, and the problem is solved. I'm going to do a little more checking before being satisfied with that.

Are you saying that the error would come from having a non-cpu heatsink fan plugged into the cpu fan header, or the actual cpu heatsink fan itself?
post #52 of 286
Nah ! I thought from your pix, that you may have had the water block and related gear installed - in otherwords, nothing plugged into the cpu fan header. But for this, you can dial down the alert rpm to something below 600 rpm.
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post #53 of 286
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Ah, very cool. Thanks for the info! +1
post #54 of 286
I'm liking the progress ballnuts.

Couple things though. Are you sure the I/o shield is snapped In all the way? I ran into that issue on one of my gigabyte boards once and it gave me issues with installing the board. I have the same Mobo as you, and love it. I don't use the oc key, so can't speak much about that issue you are having.

And as a previous poster has told you, you can adjust the alarm for your CPU fan in bios under the fan monitor settings. I'd suggest ignoring it for now, and in the future extending the rpm wire from your pumps to plug into you CPU fan header and also the optional CPU fan header. This way you can set alarms for your pumps to shutdown your computer on failure, or give you an alarm allowing you to save quickly and shutdown.

Looking good though! thumb.gif
    
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post #55 of 286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wenis View Post

I'm liking the progress ballnuts.
Couple things though. Are you sure the I/o shield is snapped In all the way? I ran into that issue on one of my gigabyte boards once and it gave me issues with installing the board. I have the same Mobo as you, and love it. I don't use the oc key, so can't speak much about that issue you are having.
And as a previous poster has told you, you can adjust the alarm for your CPU fan in bios under the fan monitor settings. I'd suggest ignoring it for now, and in the future extending the rpm wire from your pumps to plug into you CPU fan header and also the optional CPU fan header. This way you can set alarms for your pumps to shutdown your computer on failure, or give you an alarm allowing you to save quickly and shutdown.
Looking good though! thumb.gif

Welcome back Wenis! I am positive the io shield is snapped in all the way, I may be having the problem due to Caselabs being so precise with tolerances, that there isn't extra space for a i/o shield that has padding like the RIVE. Also, my padding could be too thick due to bad QC, not sure at this point. I do plan on giving this another look when I re-assemble for the watercooling equipment. My only thing with the oc key thing, is that if you don't have it keyed in, it just leaves a hole in your I/o shield. They should have included something to plug it up with when not in use. If they did, I didn't see it. I like the idea of plugging the pumps into the CPU fan header, though I don't have an RPM wire on the pumps. I think I read that you can solder an rpm wire to it. I will check it out.
post #56 of 286
Thread Starter 
UPDATE!

  • MDPC order #1 arrived. More on the way...
  • Flushed Monsta radiator
  • Waiting on chipset and GPU blocks.....

In the meantime, here are some more pictures.

You can see the imperfections on the Monsta in these pics. Everything seemed to work fine during the flush, so these are just cosmetic. It still does bother me though. Why bother putting a sticker on your product if you can't put it on straight? That's unprofessional. Also, the paint job is certainly nothing to be proud of. Lets just hope this thing cools like they say it does. I'm not impressed with the QC cosmetic wise. Curious if I can remove this goofy-ass sticker. On a more positive note. I did a decent size flush, and the residue on my hands shown below is about all that came out. I ran extremely hot water through the rad for about 5 mins at a high flow rate. So it appears the insides are in good condition. This thing does dissipate a ton of heat. I felt like I was standing in a steam room while flushing this thing. Overall, seems like a good radiator, but AC would be doing themselves a favor by removing that sticker and investing in a better painting procedure.
















Edited by ballnuts - 11/7/12 at 7:14pm
post #57 of 286
OUCH ! that's nearly unacceptable ! Somewhere - I think in the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery thread - there is that issue about Alphacool's logo stickers being applied crooked, and also there was a link - can't remember which site - to buy replacement logos. Also, there was some talk about how easy it is to remove those logos.

lemme do a search over there

ADD:

the shop link http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/29910#post_18412508

the problem with removing the logo http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/29740#post_18394260
Edited by socketus - 11/7/12 at 8:58pm
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post #58 of 286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socketus View Post

OUCH ! that's nearly unacceptable ! Somewhere - I think in the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery thread - there is that issue about Alphacool's logo stickers being applied crooked, and also there was a link - can't remember which site - to buy replacement logos. Also, there was some talk about how easy it is to remove those logos.
lemme do a search over there
ADD:
the shop link http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/29910#post_18412508
the problem with removing the logo http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/29740#post_18394260

Nice, +1 for the info. I was putting off looking it up. I was already considering doing something similar for the decal removal.
Edited by ballnuts - 11/8/12 at 4:09am
post #59 of 286
I don't have Monsta's, I have 2xUT60's and appearance wise I think they were pretty decent. I didn't pay much attention to the decals, I think they were straight but they are down in the pedestal out of sight anyway.

Problem I had was some bad threads. On three of the bad threads I was able to take a #6-32 screw of the proper length and drive it in with my cordless driver in place of the M3's. Since the original threads were so loose it was no problem for the new screw to get a bite since it's just a little bit larger in diameter. I did have one that basically had no threads, and since I don't have a bottom tap for M3 I just left it alone. No problem though, the drop in rad mount holds them all in place pretty tight.
post #60 of 286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

I don't have Monsta's, I have 2xUT60's and appearance wise I think they were pretty decent. I didn't pay much attention to the decals, I think they were straight but they are down in the pedestal out of sight anyway.
Problem I had was some bad threads. On three of the bad threads I was able to take a #6-32 screw of the proper length and drive it in with my cordless driver in place of the M3's. Since the original threads were so loose it was no problem for the new screw to get a bite since it's just a little bit larger in diameter. I did have one that basically had no threads, and since I don't have a bottom tap for M3 I just left it alone. No problem though, the drop in rad mount holds them all in place pretty tight.

HA! I was about to bring up the same thing mandrix. I was checking dimensions this morning, and couldn't mount 2 screws into the UT60. I know these rads perform really well, but it irks me that they don't pay more attention to detail. I'm sure it's a manufacturing issue, but I wish they would do something about it.

OK so I need some help...

This is the CPU connector that plugs into the 4pin power connector on the RIVE. You can see that for some reason, the grounds (I'm assuming those black wires are grounds, shows how much I know), are crossed over for the wiring. Normally, I wouldn't care about this. But you can see in the CURRENT picture, I have the wire going across the front of the case. This isn't because I'm lazy, it's because I need like 2 more millimeters to fit the plug into the connector up top when routing around the back of the case. So if I could get a little extra play from having the 2 black wires directly underneath the yellow wires, it would work.

My question is, can I do this, and also plug it in this way into the psu (also shown below). I have no idea if the wiring needs to be that way, but since the other 2 black wires are going into the same hole, it seems plausible that this could be done.


Underneath the label 'CPU' is where this plug goes. You can see it is an 8 pin plug on the PSU end. On the other end, it splits into two 4-pin connectors.



Here you can see the BEFORE picture


And here is the CURRENT picture, after I cleaned things up a bit. Notice the huge eye sore that is the wire in question.
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