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Atomic sapphire hd 4870 x2

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Hey guys, total noob when it comes to water cooling, have a couple of questions.

I picked up an atomic sapphire hd 4870 x2 cooler from Devon (AMD staff, thanks again!) from the OCn lan this past weekend. The cooler has a back plate for the hd 4870 attached to the line, but I don't want to use it. Is it possible to some how disconnect it and just have the line go from the rad and back to the cpu module? How are these systems made, is it full of coolant, or is it only half full? Just want to get an idea of where to begin, or if its even possible.



Thanks!
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post #2 of 7
That seems like a sealed loop, much like Corsair's and Antec's coolers, but you can remove the extra waterblock.

You could mod it, there are tons of people who have done it, and a couple guides on how to do it.
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post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the links smile.gif

Would mounting the rad on the top of the case be okay for the pump? I mean, can the pump handle pushing it upwards? Also, do you have any recommendations for coolant and dye? Or could I reuse whats already in here?

Thank ya
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post #4 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnyR View Post

Thanks for the links smile.gif
Would mounting the rad on the top of the case be okay for the pump? I mean, can the pump handle pushing it upwards? Also, do you have any recommendations for coolant and dye? Or could I reuse whats already in here?
Thank ya

In this case, mounting the rad up or at the side would be best, since it is best for it to be above the pump, so any stray air bubbles get stuck in the rad and not go down to the pump, affecting temps and/or making noise. And yes, the pump can handle that. Both my H50 and H70 were setup like that.

For coolant, if you plan to keep the same radiator, i have no idea. You could reuse the stuff it has (which is a mixture of distilled water and propylene glycol) since it prevents a nasty phenomenon known as galvanic corrosion (which happens when you mix the copper from the block/pump and aluminum from the rad), but it would be hard to get the amount you need, since it's hard as hell to fill a loop without a reservoir (i've tried, on my HTPC) and i doubt the amount it has is enough to fill a small reservoir.

If you plan to change the radiator to one made of bronze/copper, nothing beats distilled water + a biocide, be it PTNuke or a silver killcoil.
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post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
Oh okay, that makes sense.

I'm probably be going to keep the rad is has now to be honest. It's my first, so it'll be my experimental one. And yeah, the thing that I'm iffy about is the amount of coolant I'd need to put back. I'm probably gonna get clear tubing so I could see how much im putting in. Is there a limit you recommend, or any way of knowing whats good enough?
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post #6 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnyR View Post

Oh okay, that makes sense.
I'm probably be going to keep the rad is has now to be honest. It's my first, so it'll be my experimental one. And yeah, the thing that I'm iffy about is the amount of coolant I'd need to put back. I'm probably gonna get clear tubing so I could see how much im putting in. Is there a limit you recommend, or any way of knowing whats good enough?

The goal is to have the lesser amount of air on the loop once it's closed. How you do that is the tricky part.

I bet you will have leftover coolant if you go res-less, since you will have the extra from the GPU block + the extra tubing.
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post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Ah, awesome I get it. I'll give it a go this week, thanks for the help smile.gif
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CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
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2x 19" LG Flatron W1934S ASUS VS238 Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Sleath 2014 OCZ ZT 750W 
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