Originally Posted by callofduty2200
the reason for the ram and hdds is because we will also use it for large HD video editing aslo and we need to save every video we make.
do u have an idea of how much more it will cost? i would like to do the watercooling and ik it will be alot of work but it will be worth it to me. i could get one less 680 and just water cool it all?
i have heard good things about ocz and the Corsair Neutron Series is my second choice
how about this?
Yeah, in that case, I'd get 64GB, but if budget becomes tight I think you'd still get by with 32GB. I don't edit HD video, but I do multitask heavily including sometimes multiple VMs open on 16GB, and I haven't felt the need for 32 yet. If I edited video, 32 would probably be necessary but even then 64 might not be.
The toughpowers have a good reputation - seems like it would be a good PSU. 1375W is more than you need, but that's not really a reason not to do it if the price is OK - I think PSUs should always be overspec'd by at least 20%, preferably 30%. I reckon you'll need no more than 1000w - with overclocks that is, stock that system will probably be under 800w - I have tri-sli 580s and with overclocks I only pull 1000w at most so given that 680s are much less power hungry you'd be fine with 1000w I think, but to overspec so you're not pushing the PSU hard I'd go for a 1200w unit, so yeah, 1375w is not necessary but if you can get it for a good price why not.
I don't know exactly about budget for the water cooling, what I can do though is give you a list of WC parts I'd buy for that kind of system (well, pretty much, it will be what I have) then you can see how much they come out at. If you add this up, perhaps you can save as much as 25% by hunting around for alternatives, but it's going to give you a good ballpark figure to start out with.
CPU BLOCK: EK Supremacy
GPU BLOCKS: EK-FC680 + EK Backplates (probably better if you don't have GPUs yet to just get factory water-blocked 680s, it'll be cheaper and no fooling around fitting the waterblocks and voiding warranties, but then you need to figure out what budget impact the watercooled 680s make vs air cooled ones, so I still left something in here)
Res: Aquacomputer Aqualis XT with fill level sensor OR EK Multi-Option res 250 plus optionally something like an MPS Delta 40 from aquacomputer to use as a fill level sensor. Fill level sensor is not essential, but is nice because you can shut down automatically on a leak - probably not that useful though, since if you set that up even somewhat sensitively, quite a big leak would have happened by the time the aquaero pulled the power. If budget demands, the fill level sensor would be the first thing to go.
Rad: Either Phobya Nova 1080, a MORA of the same size, or something like 3x good quality 360 rads. You could also go for the Phobya 1260, but it's more expensive per unit area and probably isn't necessary. Same goes for 480 rads, but if your case would take them, maybe 2 of them would be a good option.
Rad Fans: 4 x Silverstone FM181 180mm fans (you need the phobya 4x180 grill to use these on a nova 1080, at extra cost). If using normal 360 or 480 rads, you'll likely want scythe gentle typhoon 1850rpm (AP-15), then it gets expensive - put it this way, 3x360 rads in push-pull is 18 gentle typhoons at probably $15 each.
Fan control and monitoring: Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 Pro. If you went 360/480 rads, you'd probably need poweradjust ultra's too which add extra capacity to the aquaero to handle more current to the fans - yet more money on top of those expensive AP-15s. The aquaero will handle 4 of the FM-181s on one of it's fan channels without any poweradjusts.
Flow sensor: Aquacomputer high flow sensor
Aquaero extra bit: ATX break cable, so the aquaero can hard-pull the power to the system on an alarm, essential in my opinion since I'd never trust it to shut down cleanly, I see shutdowns hang too often to entrust my expensive parts to an aquaero trying to shut down windows through software if something happens like a blockage or pump failure.
Temperature sensors: 2 inline water temperature sensors from whoever, one for water into the rad, one for water out. You'll get some sensors with an aquaero for air temperatures, and extra 10k ohm sensors are not expensive anyway if you need more. The water sensors will let you run fans off the delta using curve controllers in the aquaero, with 2 of them you can also calculate how much power the rad is dissipating, which is useless but interesting.
Cooling for the aquaero's fan amps: Aquacomputer waterblock for aquaero
Filter: Not strictly necessary, but I think a good idea - aquacomputer do a nice one with ball valves that makes cleaning easy but there are cheaper alternatives.
Fittings: SLI water fittings to parallel the GPU waterblocks, compressions (2 on the pump, 2 on the GPUs, 2 on the CPU, 2 on the rad, 2 on the res, 2 on the filter (if installed), 2 on the flow meter, 2 on the aquaero waterblock), I'd use something like EK-PSC or the XSPC coin-fit ones, everyone seems to use bitspower but they are really expensive and I don't see the advantage. Don't underestimate the cost of fittings - these will add up to a lot of money. Also, if you can, I'd do what I've done and try to not use rotaries inside the PC near expensive stuff, if anything is going to leak it will likely be a rotary. I have an external radbox, so I am able to have no rotaries at all in the PC, if you build in a big case like a case-labs then you may not be able to do that, but you could try to limit them to areas where a leak would be unlikely to cause a disaster. If budget demands, use barbs and hose clamps - that will save quite a lot.
Coolant: Deionised water, some copper sulphate solution (like pt nuke), and maybe some dye (only mayhems for dyes if you decide to use them).
Tubing: Whatever, stuff like primochill is overpriced and overrated I think, I use XSPC clear 1/2-3/4 hose and it's fine and quite cheap. Get twice as much as you think you'll need, then get some more.
I may have forgotten something, but that's probably most of what you'll need to buy for a water loop.
Don't forget to allow contingency for when something doesn't quite work out how you expected, which it will.Edited by BorisTheSpider - 10/21/12 at 9:26pm