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Home office gets warm after a hour or two of gaming - Page 6

post #51 of 56
10/25/12 at 4:38am
Why not just water cool PC and run tubes to the outside of your house. Build a nice structure for your rads to keep any water out and boom you got yourself a nice cool office.
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post #52 of 56
10/25/12 at 5:40am
Yeah, an outside rad was what I suggested. I have a radbox - not tried putting it outside (yet) - I do wonder if people who do that have problems with getting the blocks below the dewpoint when it's cold out, perhaps someone who runs an outdoor rad can comment?

Of course there's also the freezing issue in winter, but I know some people run antifreeze for that - I think you'd have to be careful about type of antifreeze though to avoid damaging components, especially plexi blocks.
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post #53 of 56
10/25/12 at 5:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BorisTheSpider View Post

Yeah, an outside rad was what I suggested. I have a radbox - not tried putting it outside (yet) - I do wonder if people who do that have problems with getting the blocks below the dewpoint when it's cold out, perhaps someone who runs an outdoor rad can comment?
Of course there's also the freezing issue in winter, but I know some people run antifreeze for that - I think you'd have to be careful about type of antifreeze though to avoid damaging components, especially plexi blocks.

IF it was me I would a have a 1-2 gallon reservoir located inside the house to keep it at a room temp. Run antifreeze though the entire system and setup a temp gauge so you can see water temperature. Then all you need to do is run all your rad fans to a fan controller inside your house so you can turn your fans on when you want and you can set fan speed. That way if its really cold out side your not cooling your water down to fast causing condensation to happen on the tubes and block. The reservoir should help mix the cool water coming in from the rads with the room temp water already in there. I was planning on doing this vary setup just haven't got around to doing it yet.
Edited by DzillaXx - 10/25/12 at 5:53am
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post #54 of 56
10/25/12 at 7:11am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ski-bum View Post

That will be counter-productive when it's 90 outside. Work great in the winter.
You really want to REMOVE the hot air, not try to push cold air in.

This is the same thing tongue.gif
Push cooler air in, hot air circulates out. Maybe I was not clear, a door or window would need to be open to let the air exchange. And I was referring more to indoor air exchange with the fan, doesn't have to be with outside air.

My office gets the same way. There is a good 5-10'c difference in air temp after a long session between my office and the hallway outside.
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post #55 of 56
10/25/12 at 12:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aparition View Post

This is the same thing tongue.gif
Push cooler air in, hot air circulates out. Maybe I was not clear, a door or window would need to be open to let the air exchange. And I was referring more to indoor air exchange with the fan, doesn't have to be with outside air.
My office gets the same way. There is a good 5-10'c difference in air temp after a long session between my office and the hallway outside.

It's not the same thing. If you don't remove the heat you'll never cool the room. I've owned an air conditioning buisiness for over 20 years now and that's just how it is.
That's why I recommended a return duct from the central a/c unit. The reason air conditioning would be better than just an exhaust is because the a/c unit will also remove humidity, which also greatly effects the comfort level.
Also, just trying to force air into a room increases the positve displacement in the room so air will be pushed out the easiest way that it can find, which may be down too low to force hot air high up on the ceiling out. You could end up with a nice cool floor and very warm up near the ceiling. That's why A/C returns are almost always (and should be) up high.
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post #56 of 56
10/25/12 at 12:39pm
Turn down the ac...
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