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post #33551 of 67372
Quote:
Originally Posted by nX3NTY View Post

I see, I don't like them either. Can't properly cool my VRM and northbridge cooler because of it

Keep in mind that on the Phanteks the fans extend below the lowest fin on the heat sink, so there will always be air moving over the top of the socket and VRMs as a result. It probably won't be as much as you could achieve with additional fans, but it won't cost you anything extra, either.
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post #33552 of 67372
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Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post



Small enough case for you? The odds of ANY case not having a 120mm mount somewhere are slim to none. That's one of the smallest mITX cases I know of, the Elite 110, and it can pack an H60-size cooler just fine.

As for in transit... The Rad and Block are securely tightened to the case and board. That leaves the tubes and their weight the only things moving that could dislodge them from their mounting points. That isn't happening. There's a higher chance of a heavy air cooler snapping your board.

thanks for the info! I start looking into some AIO water cooling for cpu and figure out if it'll fit in both cases and the only think that sorta would bug me is the fan outside of the case but if i could position it on the top of the mobo it shouldn't be an issue because I can increase the height (16") by a little if needed, on the custom case at least.
and yea, I honestly wish I could by a small case with the dimensions of 16"x 12" x 7" that would fit atx board.
but even most mini itx cases are bigger then those dimensions because of drive bays and psu space from what ive seen, so its custom case or staying with my antec P193 which is like 35lbs without parts, which is not a viable pick up and go computer.

Edited by Sadmoto - 4/14/14 at 5:57pm
     
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post #33553 of 67372
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadmoto View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post



Small enough case for you? The odds of ANY case not having a 120mm mount somewhere are slim to none. That's one of the smallest mITX cases I know of, the Elite 110, and it can pack an H60-size cooler just fine.

As for in transit... The Rad and Block are securely tightened to the case and board. That leaves the tubes and their weight the only things moving that could dislodge them from their mounting points. That isn't happening. There's a higher chance of a heavy air cooler snapping your board.

thanks for the info! I start looking into some AIO water cooling for cpu and figure out if it'll fit in both cases and the only think that sorta would bug me is the fan outside of the case but if i could position it on the top of the mobo it shouldn't be an issue because I can increase the height (16") by a little if needed, on the custom case at least.
and yea, I honestly wish I could by a small case with the dimensions of 16"x 12" x 7" that would fit atx board.
but even most mini itx cases are bigger then those dimensions because of drive bays and psu space from what ive seen, so its custom case or staying with my antec P193 which is like 35lbs without parts, which is not a viable pick up and go computer.

And that's exactly why I designed my Elite 110-based APU rig. tongue.gif It got favorable enough reviews from the people I told it to, and if you feel like spending more you can always go haswell i5 and 7870 or something because the case will fit it.
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post #33554 of 67372
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

And that's exactly why I designed my Elite 110-based APU rig. tongue.gif It got favorable enough reviews from the people I told it to, and if you feel like spending more you can always go haswell i5 and 7870 or something because the case will fit it.
,

I originally going to get new parts and just a build a new computer from scratch, but that isnt happening with $150-200 haha tongue.gif
So I started pondering how small of a case could be made with parts I already have and be able to fit it in my backpack so I can bring it with me easily and came up with the 16"x 12" x7" dimensions, it'll fit the atx board, full size GPU, full size PSU and spots for fans. ( at least the parts I have will fit, which are all full size)
now that Im thinking about it I could possibly get a bigger rad then a 120 (maybe 2x 120 slots) if it wont be wider then the 7" and not longer then 11"-12".

I can't remember the size of 2x 120 rads, i want to say 240, but part of me wants to think that is 2x 140mm slots, or is 2x 140mm a 280?


edit actually I should be able to use an H100i, its 10.8" but is it really worth the extra 40$?

I cant get a straight answer from reviews/ graphs, I have one website saying its only a 5c difference between a h60 and h100i, while another website says there is a 20c difference. mad.gif
Edited by Sadmoto - 4/14/14 at 7:13pm
     
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post #33555 of 67372
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadmoto View Post

I cant get a straight answer from reviews/ graphs, I have one website saying its only a 5c difference between a h60 and h100i, while another website says there is a 20c difference. mad.gif

The radiator is much larger, so it'll have much better dissipation potential. The difference probably isn't huge at stock speeds because you can only keep it so close to ambient, but as you overclock the gap between the two will grow. Take a good long look at the speeds and voltages the reviewers are using to test them both at. I'm thinking the 20C gap is closer to the truth when heavily overclocked. I've got a feeling that the size of the gap will grow as the size of the overclock does.

I had to take the same thing into account when shopping for an air cooler just recently. Some review sites only test CPUs at stock, and the temps they report are almost useless as a result because you don't get a real feel for dissipation potential. The same goes for tests with very mild overclocks.
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post #33556 of 67372
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadmoto View Post



I cant get a straight answer from reviews/ graphs, I have one website saying its only a 5c difference between a h60 and h100i, while another website says there is a 20c difference. mad.gif

I'd lean towards the 20c difference.. i get a difference of about 8-9c from h100 -> h90
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post #33557 of 67372
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nisrock7863 View Post

The radiator is much larger, so it'll have much better dissipation potential. The difference probably isn't huge at stock speeds because you can only keep it so close to ambient, but as you overclock the gap between the two will grow. Take a good long look at the speeds and voltages the reviewers are using to test them both at. I'm thinking the 20C gap is closer to the truth when heavily overclocked. I've got a feeling that the size of the gap will grow as the size of the overclock does.

I had to take the same thing into account when shopping for an air cooler just recently. Some review sites only test CPUs at stock, and the temps they report are almost useless as a result because you don't get a real feel for dissipation potential. The same goes for tests with very mild overclocks.

Nice that you guys are talking about these stuff.

One quick question I have to ask is this:

What's the common temp delta you guys get from a proper watercooling loop (at least 120 X 240mm rads biggrin.gif ) when cooling an overclocked FX up to 5GHz or more?

I'd have to ask since my ambient goes to around 30 or more on a daily basis (no air conditioning) and planning to add a loop into my system. Probably a couple of 120 X 240 mm or a couple of thinner 120 X 360mm rads

I'm still deciding on these two as both cost almost the same. Not sure how one fares with another too. 240 mm rads mean no major renovation on my small case but I like the feeling of having 360 mm rads biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
post #33558 of 67372
Quote:
Originally Posted by Durquavian View Post

You need to try some FSB OCing. It is not a scientific find but I was finding that temps were higher with higher Multi compared to FSB/multi. For instance the temp increase from 20 to 20.5 multi was huge in comparison to same clock with FSB. My 4.6Ghz was barely breaking 45C under full load with FSB OCing compared to the 50C+ with Multi.

I will do that but how about nb frequency, should i leave it on 2400 or try 2600? By the way CPU/NB voltage is 1.25.
post #33559 of 67372
Quote:
Originally Posted by F@ruk View Post

I will do that but how about nb frequency, should i leave it on 2400 or try 2600? By the way CPU/NB voltage is 1.25.
2600 has been quite the boon for me, although my ram is only 1600. My CPU-NB is @ 1.36-1.38V, higher being my gaming volts.
post #33560 of 67372
Quote:
Originally Posted by Durquavian View Post

2600 has been quite the boon for me, although my ram is only 1600. My CPU-NB is @ 1.36-1.38V, higher being my gaming volts.

2600-2700 is the sweet spot for me, I'm running 2500Mhz atm due to working out some kinks.

have to clear CMOS everytime i boot up, this doesn't look good frown.gif
 
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