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[OFFICIAL] FX-8320/FX-8350 Vishera Owners Club - Page 3477

post #34761 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by gertruude View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post


No, didn't try that button. Guess I felt like it couldn't be the memory if the CPU got overheated.

And I don't think any of the distilled water got on anything except the video card possibly. Where the hose came apart was in the drive bays so if anything, the drives are dead. And when it all happened, the motherboard was dry as far as I could tell.

The memok resets everything to stock, so its a great button to have if ya got fat fingers like me tongue.gif

Just check all your stuff for sticky parts lol in case u missed it

Quote:
Originally Posted by tEhLoNeR View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Enough guys. I just missed 1 barb to tie.

I will try the memclock button tonight.

But my original question still stands: shouldn't the pc actually shut down when the cpu gets too hot? The story is like this:

I was having dinner with my family until the wife said she heard like a ringing sound. As it turned out, it was my pc down in my man cave. The PC was still running with the pump running dry but it was like it was all locked up (black screen and power or reset button wouldn't work). I had to turn off the PSU to get it turned off. After fixing the loop and rebooting, it's as I said, stays on the mem LED. So I'm assuming the CPU got hot since it had no water to pull heat away.

Inb4shouldaleaktest: I did. Problem is leak testing doesn't warm up the tubes.

It should... I know on my mobo I have the option to actually set the temp on when that happens. Although I think if the whole computer froze it might not. Not entirely sure about that.

What I'm sure about though is that you might want to get a new pump... pretty sure running it dry will ruin the pump.

Just making sure... you do have the ram in the right slots right? And you did try reseating them? I think the light stays on if its not on there right

Things I tried tonight:
  • Held memok button for 3 seconds and DRAM LED starts flashing, then CPU LED flashes twice and then DRAM LED flashes faster, then CPU LED flashes twice and then DRAM LED seems to flash faster, then CPU LED flashes twice, DRAM LED flashes a little bit longer, and then just stays on constant.
  • Reset CMOS, tried the memok button again and it just did the same thing.
  • Swapped RAM from a working pc, same thing.

Can anyone think of anything else to try? I can't RMA the chip because I bought it used.
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post #34762 of 67694
Buy another MB..its got wet somewhere. Just the right drop can zap it even if ya think it didn't get wet.
     
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post #34763 of 67694
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Things I tried tonight:
  • Held memok button for 3 seconds and DRAM LED starts flashing, then CPU LED flashes twice and then DRAM LED flashes faster, then CPU LED flashes twice and then DRAM LED seems to flash faster, then CPU LED flashes twice, DRAM LED flashes a little bit longer, and then just stays on constant.
  • Reset CMOS, tried the memok button again and it just did the same thing.
  • Swapped RAM from a working pc, same thing.

Can anyone think of anything else to try? I can't RMA the chip because I bought it used.

I would consider it time to call ASUS. No need for them to know about the leak, just that the board is being weird.
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post #34764 of 67694
So you guys think it's the MB and not the chip?
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post #34765 of 67694
Have any of you FX owners ever noticed how morbidly slow your L3 cache is? Check it out in AIDA.
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post #34766 of 67694
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

So you guys think it's the MB and not the chip?

Well if you can't get replacements to test, then it's time to start RMAing things.

I would consider calling AMD as well. It may be used, but they might take it anyway. Never know if you don't try, right?
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post #34767 of 67694
I'm pulling an Athlon II 435 from my wife's pc and trying that.
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post #34768 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

I would consider it time to call ASUS. No need for them to know about the leak, just that the board is being weird.

The "weird"-ness, maybe the from the cause of a short or separated IC-soldered contact, I had a MB do weird things like that( cause i had a tube come loose, while i was draining and dripped on it. Thought i had it all dry..NOPE
Also swapped cpu's-RAM, removed down to breadboard testing and still got no where. ohh and did call and got a run around about various sorts of possibilities.
     
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post #34769 of 67694
Sad day. It's the chip. The Athlon worked. Tried the 8350 again and it didn't.

Good news is that the drives seems to work even though they had the bulk of the water dumped on them. Both the 280X's works too.

It's just the chip. I've never RMA'd a CPU before. redface.gif

EDIT: Just now submitted a Warranty Request form. Let's see how it goes and hope for the best. I was not pleased with it OC anyways.
Edited by Krusher33 - 5/14/14 at 9:20pm
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post #34770 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

Take it from someone who has been here since launch and has had a 8320 at 5.2Ghz and 1.65v on a UD3: You are wrong.

I'm not taking that on your part. But you are also wrong to assume the rest of the UD3 revisions were of the level of your 1.1 or 1. It has been long proven on the rev 3, rev 4.
Quote:
There is a whole lot more that goes into it than you let on, but one of the biggest problems some new members have is CPU/NB seriously overvolts when left on "Auto" on ASUS board. Particularly the saber. This leads them to believe they are thermally limited when they could chop a whole 0.15v(!) off the CPU/NB and reduce a ton of heat.

Doesn't matter how much CPUNB Voltage I add or shave. The thing is hotter (on the Giga) because of the overshoots and unpredictable Voltage Swings.

Mind you, 0.06+ Volts From minimum to Maximum matters a lot on both Stability and Temps.

You wouldn't know, you never have dreaded the board.
Quote:
Revisions on Giga boards are also very important. Rev 1.1 was absolutely fantastic, and I have 4 boards from that generation (two 970 and two 990 UD3s). Rev 4 appears to have fixed several of Rev 3's problems, but yet again I'm now sitting on a Rev 3 UD5, bypassing most of the problems people say the Rev 3 series has, which leads me to believe that most people simply don't really know how to overclock. Which is completely unsurprising, we get new people all the time.

Revision 3 UD3 has long been known to have too many issues for Overclocking. And reading from the GIGA thread, it seems the issues UD3 have still exist. There has been numerous people with the revision 4 who seek help from that thread. And the common consensus, picking a better board.

While true that some users were simply not up for the OC'ing challenge, they are also limited by the board.

And yeah, I'm referring to just one rev. And maybe the other one that supposedly improve on it's shortcomings, I'm no way turning this out to favor the board that I currently have. Just pointing the variable that limits Overclocking to the user.

This is not a fan boy rant. biggrin.gif

Quote:
And no Flat isn't necessary. If you know what you're doing, vBoost can actually help. wink.gif

It could work 2 ways.

Higher Voltage - More stable at a given clock within cooler capabilities.
Higher Voltage - More heat at a given clock compared to other boards with finer Voltage Increments.

The point on the latter is, Lower Giga models cannot or does not have the fine voltage offsets as the other boards.

I would love to make a proper comparison of my UD3 rev 3 and the Kitty's Voltages response if only my UD3 is not dead.
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