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post #34771 of 67365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Sad day. It's the chip. The Athlon worked. Tried the 8350 again and it didn't.

Good news is that the drives seems to work even though they had the bulk of the water dumped on them. Both the 280X's works too.

It's just the chip. I've never RMA'd a CPU before. redface.gif

EDIT: Just now submitted a Warranty Request form. Let's see how it goes and hope for the best. I was not pleased with it OC anyways.

Rats...was hopes it wasn't..now maybe AMD will have a better option for you.
     
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post #34772 of 67365
Do I get extra love points for having only built for myself AMD systems since Socket A days?
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post #34773 of 67365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Sad day. It's the chip. The Athlon worked. Tried the 8350 again and it didn't.

Good news is that the drives seems to work even though they had the bulk of the water dumped on them. Both the 280X's works too.

It's just the chip. I've never RMA'd a CPU before. redface.gif

EDIT: Just now submitted a Warranty Request form. Let's see how it goes and hope for the best. I was not pleased with it OC anyways.

You should call yourself lucky ( a bit inappropriate to your current situation but YES, you are )

In most cases, a spill would either kill a Mobo, or a chip, worst and a very possible to kill both.

I'm hoping you can get around the hassle quickly. I've been there a month ago. My board just died. redface.gif
post #34774 of 67365
Yeah I am quite lucky. I was just thinking of what I've RMA'd in the past and... I think nothing? There was a motherboard that I called in about where a PCIe slot went bad, but it was way beyond its warranty so no go on that one. And then there was an SSD that I bought used. I tried to RMA it but needed a receipt. When I asked the seller for it, he just offered a refund for it. Seemed suspicious to me but whatever, I got my money back.

And people have had problems with OCZ RAMs and SSD's, Seagate's HDD's, but not me.

So yeah... I think this is my very first RMA in the 15+ years I've built PC's.
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post #34775 of 67365
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

Take it from someone who has been here since launch and has had a 8320 at 5.2Ghz and 1.65v on a UD3: You are wrong.

I'm not taking that on your part. But you are also wrong to assume the rest of the UD3 revisions were of the level of your 1.1 or 1. It has been long proven on the rev 3, rev 4.
Quote:
There is a whole lot more that goes into it than you let on, but one of the biggest problems some new members have is CPU/NB seriously overvolts when left on "Auto" on ASUS board. Particularly the saber. This leads them to believe they are thermally limited when they could chop a whole 0.15v(!) off the CPU/NB and reduce a ton of heat.

Doesn't matter how much CPUNB Voltage I add or shave. The thing is hotter (on the Giga) because of the overshoots and unpredictable Voltage Swings.

Mind you, 0.06+ Volts From minimum to Maximum matters a lot on both Stability and Temps.

You wouldn't know, you never have dreaded the board.
Quote:
Revisions on Giga boards are also very important. Rev 1.1 was absolutely fantastic, and I have 4 boards from that generation (two 970 and two 990 UD3s). Rev 4 appears to have fixed several of Rev 3's problems, but yet again I'm now sitting on a Rev 3 UD5, bypassing most of the problems people say the Rev 3 series has, which leads me to believe that most people simply don't really know how to overclock. Which is completely unsurprising, we get new people all the time.

Revision 3 UD3 has long been known to have too many issues for Overclocking. And reading from the GIGA thread, it seems the issues UD3 have still exist. There has been numerous people with the revision 4 who seek help from that thread. And the common consensus, picking a better board.

While true that some users were simply not up for the OC'ing challenge, they are also limited by the board.

And yeah, I'm referring to just one rev. And maybe the other one that supposedly improve on it's shortcomings, I'm no way turning this out to favor the board that I currently have. Just pointing the variable that limits Overclocking to the user.

This is not a fan boy rant. biggrin.gif

Quote:
And no Flat isn't necessary. If you know what you're doing, vBoost can actually help. wink.gif

It could work 2 ways.

Higher Voltage - More stable at a given clock within cooler capabilities.
Higher Voltage - More heat at a given clock compared to other boards with finer Voltage Increments.

The point on the latter is, Lower Giga models cannot or does not have the fine voltage offsets as the other boards.

I would love to make a proper comparison of my UD3 rev 3 and the Kitty's Voltages response if only my UD3 is not dead.

First off, all that shows is you (or others, whoever) don't know how to control your board. Ask @cssorkinman, any amount of voltage swing can be accounted for. I really do not care what people whine about in the motherboard threads because 9 times out of 10 it's the same as a newbie entering here; people complaining about how it doesn't work how it "should" in their mind instead of learning how to do it the right way. It wasn't too long ago that people didn't know how to save BIOS settings and have them apply on reboot on Rev 3s.

You want to know real pain? Ask the few people that have tried to use 78LMT boards. *shiver*

The thing about vBoost however, especially on Rev 1.1, is that it could save you some idle voltage if you do it right. Back when I was using that board I had LLC set in such a way that at idle I was at (for 4.8Ghz) 1.45v, but under load it would rise to 1.475v. System was completely stable. It also allowed for some very funny CPU-z Valids. tongue.gif

As for fine voltage control... 0.01v is not going to make a huge difference. Ever. If that tiny amount of voltage is what's stopping you thermally, then your cooler can not handle it. Back off the clock.

Which by the way, the ASUS CPU/NB problem was directed at everyone thinking coolers are not as capable as they are. A large number of people coming into this thread enter with ASUS boards, low clocks, and high temps. Actually doing CPU/NB manually would help them, but everyone seems to have forgotten about this and just tells them to get a new cooler. rolleyes.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Sad day. It's the chip. The Athlon worked. Tried the 8350 again and it didn't.

Good news is that the drives seems to work even though they had the bulk of the water dumped on them. Both the 280X's works too.

It's just the chip. I've never RMA'd a CPU before. redface.gif

EDIT: Just now submitted a Warranty Request form. Let's see how it goes and hope for the best. I was not pleased with it OC anyways.

You should call yourself lucky ( a bit inappropriate to your current situation but YES, you are )

In most cases, a spill would either kill a Mobo, or a chip, worst and a very possible to kill both.

I'm hoping you can get around the hassle quickly. I've been there a month ago. My board just died. redface.gif

Should have RMA'd it if you didn't. Giga's RMA process is no where near as nightmarish as all the ASUS RMA stories in the Rant section, and worse case it can be a backup/test board. Best case you can sell it off.

My turn around time was 2 weeks including shipping both ways when I killed my old UD3 with water.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Yeah I am quite lucky. I was just thinking of what I've RMA'd in the past and... I think nothing? There was a motherboard that I called in about where a PCIe slot went bad, but it was way beyond its warranty so no go on that one. And then there was an SSD that I bought used. I tried to RMA it but needed a receipt. When I asked the seller for it, he just offered a refund for it. Seemed suspicious to me but whatever, I got my money back.

And people have had problems with OCZ RAMs and SSD's, Seagate's HDD's, but not me.

So yeah... I think this is my very first RMA in the 15+ years I've built PC's.

It's like waiting in the DMV. It takes forever, but it needs to be done.

Or you can just go buy a new one if you're good on the money front and decide what to do with the RMA'd chip later.
Edited by KyadCK - 5/14/14 at 9:56pm
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post #34776 of 67365
Thinking about selling my 2 280X's to buy something to swap out my sig rig chip and board actually. Just can't make up my mind.
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post #34777 of 67365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Yeah I am quite lucky. I was just thinking of what I've RMA'd in the past and... I think nothing? There was a motherboard that I called in about where a PCIe slot went bad, but it was way beyond its warranty so no go on that one. And then there was an SSD that I bought used. I tried to RMA it but needed a receipt. When I asked the seller for it, he just offered a refund for it. Seemed suspicious to me but whatever, I got my money back.

And people have had problems with OCZ RAMs and SSD's, Seagate's HDD's, but not me.

So yeah... I think this is my very first RMA in the 15+ years I've built PC's.

I think someone here on OCN RMAed their old FX processor( I think 8120?) and got upgraded to a 8350. So hopefully AMD will treat you well too.

Kind of weird that the RAM led lights up and not the CPU one... You try that chip on another mobo? Although from what it sounds like the IMC in the 8120 got damaged.


Oh hey, theres a BIOS update for my CHVFZ... wonder if I should bother updating...
post #34778 of 67365
Quote:
Originally Posted by FoamyV View Post

Bummer, got my board and cpu today and tried to set them up but no go. Cpu led on the saber is always red. Tried different setups ultimately leading to having the board and cpu on the bench with only the cooler and psu connected, still no response. Boy am i dissapointed. I tried the 8320 on the saber, the led still stays red. What's the prognosis docs? tongue.gif dead board already? haven't tried the 9370 on the m5a99x and i don't think i will or have to. Reassembled the old rig and it's still working on the same psu.

LE: should i try the Bios Flashback? i could try and update it to the latest one, have any of you used it? is it safe? tongue.gif

Any ideas? tongue.gif gonna try the new bios with the flashback utility in a few minutes
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post #34779 of 67365
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

First off, all that shows is you (or others, whoever) don't know how to control your board. Ask @cssorkinman, any amount of voltage swing can be accounted for. I really do not care what people whine about in the motherboard threads because 9 times out of 10 it's the same as a newbie entering here; people complaining about how it doesn't work how it "should" in their mind instead of learning how to do it the right way. It wasn't too long ago that people didn't know how to save BIOS settings and have them apply on reboot on Rev 3s.

You want to know real pain? Ask the few people that have tried to use 78LMT boards. *shiver*

The thing about vBoost however, especially on Rev 1.1, is that it could save you some idle voltage if you do it right. Back when I was using that board I had LLC set in such a way that at idle I was at (for 4.8Ghz) 1.45v, but under load it would rise to 1.475v. System was completely stable. It also allowed for some very funny CPU-z Valids. tongue.gif

As for fine voltage control... 0.01v is not going to make a huge difference. Ever. If that tiny amount of voltage is what's stopping you thermally, then your cooler can not handle it. Back off the clock.

Which by the way, the ASUS CPU/NB problem was directed at everyone thinking coolers are not as capable as they are. A large number of people coming into this thread enter with ASUS boards, low clocks, and high temps. Actually doing CPU/NB manually would help them, but everyone seems to have forgotten about this and just tells them to get a new cooler. rolleyes.gif

Like I said Kyad, I would of loved to show you what I mean, unfortunately my board is dead.

The swings that I am talking about is more than you described. 1.452 at Idle will ramp up to 1.512 at load. And back to 1.452, to 1.488 to 1.476 or 1.464 1.500 randomly. Yes, Randomly with 6 Voltage values. And the best that I can do to limit that swings is settle for a lower LLC setting. Regular which, limits those voltages to just 4 steps.

It's really hard to explain this without any graph to show you, but yes, you are right about the cooler. But the point is, I am perfectly stable at 4.8 on the Kitty with 1.500 and still within temps . I am not on the UD3 because I cannot dial 1.500. It could either be 1.488 minimum and max out at 1.525 which will really impact my temps. or settle to 1.476 minimum and max of 1.512 to be a little bit cooler. But will impact stability.

Mind you, 1.488 on the Kitty is semi stable, 1.500 is.

I hope it is clear enough on my point as all I said is the effect of the Mobo on the Temps. Not mentioning any other parameters as CPU-NB as I am using the same setting that I have on the UD3 ( CPU-NB at 2500 at +0.150 CPU-NB Volts). As this is a mobo to mobo comparison with the same chip, same cooler. Different Voltages but the impact shows.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Depending on your ambient temps. Board also plays a role. And of course the chip..

4.5 - 4.6 could be attained using a D14 or the likes. My SA can do it but starts to get hot when trying voltages above 1.45.

If your board can deliver a flat regulated voltage under load, it can also be cooler. on a UD3, I maxed out at 1.472 on cold season. On a SaberKitty, I could still do 1.5 at this summer. (reason, voltages swings; very bad on a ud3)

to cut this short, 4.7 / 1.45+ Volts and up would be very hard for air coolers but not saying unattainable.

I may have hurt your Fanboy Balls but the issue started on how well an air cooler do with these chips. The response goes to proving me wrong about how well I do with Overclocking and how I understand that Mobo.

Sounds like one of them Brand reps
Edited by mus1mus - 5/14/14 at 10:33pm
post #34780 of 67365
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

First off, all that shows is you (or others, whoever) don't know how to control your board. Ask @cssorkinman, any amount of voltage swing can be accounted for. I really do not care what people whine about in the motherboard threads because 9 times out of 10 it's the same as a newbie entering here; people complaining about how it doesn't work how it "should" in their mind instead of learning how to do it the right way. It wasn't too long ago that people didn't know how to save BIOS settings and have them apply on reboot on Rev 3s.

You want to know real pain? Ask the few people that have tried to use 78LMT boards. *shiver*

The thing about vBoost however, especially on Rev 1.1, is that it could save you some idle voltage if you do it right. Back when I was using that board I had LLC set in such a way that at idle I was at (for 4.8Ghz) 1.45v, but under load it would rise to 1.475v. System was completely stable. It also allowed for some very funny CPU-z Valids. tongue.gif

As for fine voltage control... 0.01v is not going to make a huge difference. Ever. If that tiny amount of voltage is what's stopping you thermally, then your cooler can not handle it. Back off the clock.

Which by the way, the ASUS CPU/NB problem was directed at everyone thinking coolers are not as capable as they are. A large number of people coming into this thread enter with ASUS boards, low clocks, and high temps. Actually doing CPU/NB manually would help them, but everyone seems to have forgotten about this and just tells them to get a new cooler. rolleyes.gif

Like I said Kyad, I would of loved to show you what I mean, unfortunately my board is dead.

The swings that I am talking about is more than you described. 1.452 at Idle will ramp up to 1.512 at load. And back to 1.452, to 1.488 to 1.476 or 1.464 1.500 randomly. Yes, Randomly with 6 Voltage values. And the best that I can do to limit that swings is settle for a lower LLC setting. Regular which, limits those voltages to just 4 steps.

It's really hard to explain this without any graph to show you, but yes, you are right about the cooler. But the point is, I am perfectly stable at 4.8 on the Kitty with 1.500 and still within . I am not on the UD3 because I cannot dial 1.500. It could either be 1.488 minimum and max out at 1.525 which will really impact my temps. or settle to 1.476 minimum and max of 1.512 to be a little bit cooler. But will impact stability.

Mind you, 1.488 on the Kitty is semi stable, 1.500 is.

I hope it is clear enough on my point as all I said is the effect of the Mobo on the Temps. Not mentioning any other parameters as CPU-NB as I am using the same setting that I have on the UD3 ( CPU-NB at 2500 at +0.150 CPU-NB Volts). As this is a mobo to mobo comparison with the same chip, same cooler. Different Voltages but the impact shows.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Depending on your ambient temps. Board also plays a role. And of course the chip..

4.5 - 4.6 could be attained using a D14 or the likes. My SA can do it but starts to get hot when trying voltages above 1.45.

If your board can deliver a flat regulated voltage under load, it can also be cooler. on a UD3, I maxed out at 1.472 on cold season. On a SaberKitty, I could still do 1.5 at this summer. (reason, voltages swings; very bad on a ud3)

to cut this short, 4.7 / 1.45+ Volts and up would be very hard for air coolers but not saying unattainable.

cssorkinman has to deal with .1v vDroop AND has to use software overclocking because his motherboard of choice is a GD80. If he can do it, so can a UD3 Rev 3. Your swings are absolutely tame in comparison to what we've had to deal with from time to time, they're not as bad as you make them out to be in the grand scheme of things. tongue.gif
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64GB Corsair Dominator Platinum (3000Mhz 8x8GB) Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 512GB EK Predator 240 Windows 10 Enterprise x64 
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2x Acer XR341CK Corsair Vengeance K70 RGB Corsair AX1200 Corsair Graphite 780T 
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