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[OFFICIAL] FX-8320/FX-8350 Vishera Owners Club - Page 3977

post #39761 of 67694
I agree with mfknjadagr8, i use MX-4 for over a year now and its given me very good temps with my h100i, i still have some arctic silver tho but i am not sure if its better or not.
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post #39762 of 67694
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liranan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

H70 is -not- holding you back at just 1.365v unless you're running passive... Coolers of it's type do 4.5/1.4v all day long.

This is probably with the cooler running at 100% fan speed, which is extremely loud.

Also my ambient temperature is pretty high. It's easily over 35C now and regularly goes over 40.

While true, they also only need to be at that speed for IBT AVX. Nothing else really gets it that high thermally. What you see when you run Cine or Firestrike are about what you should expect for normal use, and in those situations you can turn your fan down.

Fan controllers and/or fan profiles. Lovely things.
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post #39763 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurricane28 View Post

Okay, well i am pretty keen on my MX-4 biggrin.gif

So its not the pump and bubbles..

Yes that plays a big role according to my cooler indeed, i do clean it every month because i simply do not like dust in my PC and rad since it dramatically drop temps rapidly.

I like the UT60 rad, it has indeed low FPI so you can actually mount an very silent fan and be able to maintain proper cooling. If i am going with an water loop i would definitely go with an low FPI rad.

Where do you buy your parts from if i may ask since were from the same country biggrin.gif

Highflow.nl

Do expect to pay a pretty big number though. My loop was around 400 euro.
But I did buy overkill parts so I can expand the loop later without much trouble.

I have the rad on top of the case so the heat is taken outside completely.

When you have the funds go for a thick rad. I was doubting between the UT60 or the Monsta. And I should have gone with the Monsta. But didn't. biggrin.gif
I have 3 Gentle Typhoon 1850 fans on the rad. When I game they can be set to 800rpm and still give proper temps.
At least, when the loop works properly. tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurricane28 View Post

I agree with mfknjadagr8, i use MX-4 for over a year now and its given me very good temps with my h100i, i still have some arctic silver tho but i am not sure if its better or not.

arctic silver 5 is ancient. It was king of the hill no doubt. But no more.
And mx-3 is better then mx-4 though.
But if you want top notch go with Liquid Metal Pad or Liquid Pro.
Edited by Chopper1591 - 9/12/14 at 12:59am
    
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post #39764 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Highflow.nl

Do expect to pay a pretty big number though. My loop was around 400 euro.
But I did buy overkill parts so I can expand the loop later without much trouble.

I have the rad on top of the case so the heat is taken outside completely.

When you have the funds go for a thick rad. I was doubting between the UT60 or the Monsta. And I should have gone with the Monsta. But didn't. biggrin.gif
I have 3 Gentle Typhoon 1850 fans on the rad. When I game they can be set to 800rpm and still give proper temps.
At least, when the loop works properly. tongue.gif
arctic silver 5 is ancient. It was king of the hill no doubt. But no more.
And mx-3 is better then mx-4 though.
But if you want top notch go with Liquid Metal Pad or Liquid Pro.

Yes i agree with everything you said. Arctic silver is very old and i must say it suited me perfectly until i discovered MX-4. Sometimes i can't believe what temps i get with my H100i and most people don't believe it so i have to proof it time and time again rolleyes.gif

Especially with this chip, its running very cool for some reason i guess its the lower VID that does the trick. Going from 1.365 to 1.313 mayes an huge difference in temps.

Ive heard from Highflow, they almost have everything about water cooling. I know exactly what to buy but my wallet still won't allow me because if i do such i only want to have the best available so for that you need to pay at least 400 euro's like you said.

I am little concerned about custom water loop to be honest because of maintenance and all problems i heard from it so i need to do a little more research before i go for it for now.
Did you watched the link i send you about singularity computers? I like the guy a lot because he explains things so well that everyone can understands it and has great knowledge about things like that.
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post #39765 of 67694
My vote goes to Prolimatech PK-3 Nano. I have a huge tube of it (30g). Was only like $30 and I can reapply it as many times as I need to if I need to take the h100i out to clean the dust out of the rad. Kept my FX-8350 5ghz 1.6v under 60C while gaming, when I still had it in here. Ran about 5C cooler than cured Arctic Silver. Non-conductive, spreads easily.

A lot of tests and stuff I've read show PK-3 and MX-4 to be nearly identical in temps with the same cooler.

I've tried a lot of stuff, some free Xigmatek silicon stuff the Egg gave me when I bought a cooler. Shin Etsu G751 (this stuff is freakin terrible). Thermaltake paste that came with my Frio. IC7 Diamond, that stuff is severely overrated, it discolors your IHS and did no better than AS5 in my testing. It is also hard as hell to spread.

By far, the best I've found so far is PK-3, followed by AS5. I am sure MX-4 is good too, a lot of people love it.

I want to try Gelid GC-Extreme, and any of the Coolaboratory stuff. biggrin.gif
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post #39766 of 67694
BTW, this is my firestrike score at 5Ghz after deleting the idiotic AI suite with the removal tool from Asus. Lemme know what you think thumb.gif

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post #39767 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurricane28 View Post

BTW, this is my firestrike score at 5Ghz after deleting the idiotic AI suite with the removal tool from Asus. Lemme know what you think thumb.gif


I get a 13k physics score at 4.5ghz. thumb.giftongue.gif

(Yeah I know it doesn't count.)
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post #39768 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

While true, they also only need to be at that speed for IBT AVX. Nothing else really gets it that high thermally. What you see when you run Cine or Firestrike are about what you should expect for normal use, and in those situations you can turn your fan down.

Fan controllers and/or fan profiles. Lovely things.

To be honest I still haven't actually sat down to figure out how to set fan profiles for my CHV.
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post #39769 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by neurotix View Post

I get a 13k physics score at 4.5ghz. thumb.giftongue.gif

(Yeah I know it doesn't count.)

I was about to puke on your 13k physics score at 4.5. biggrin.gif


Guys, very sad. No AS5, or anything mentioned.

What I got is a DeepCool Z5. Nothing is worthy at their lot. So figured, it will be job for another day.

Here's Skinee Labs' take on them..
post #39770 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liranan View Post

To be honest I still haven't actually sat down to figure out how to set fan profiles for my CHV.

Here's a guide posted on the kitty thread by @wolfwalker
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfwalker View Post

OK, bare in mind my install is all configured and re-named, I'll include a legend of sorts below to reference.
Couple notes.

I'm notoriously long winded and have never written instructions for such before, so gimmie a break. smile.gif

My setup is a Sabertooth R2, 8350, crossfire HIS 280X's
My case fans, all 8, are Noctua PWM NF-S12A with the exception of a 200mm BitFenix up top.
CPU Cooler is a Noctua D15 with the two stock 140mm PWM fans.
My case is the underappreciated Antec 1100 which I've found to be surprisingly quiet and cool
running despite being not very big by my standards. And it was cheap.
Not pictured are the two 120's in the left window and the single 120 in the right panel blowing
on the back of the board.








I get no voltage readings at all other than for the GPU.
Nor do I get temp readings from the dozen or so temp sensors the Sabertooth has onboard.
My theory is the monitoring chip is pretty well customized and SpeedFan just isn't coded to read em.

I use HWinfo64 and it reads everything, I keep graphs open on my second monitor as you'll see below.
I ran HWinfo and SpeedFan at the same time with no problems, HWinfo data matches SpeedFan perfectly
other than some update speed differences on the core temp, and it has a lot better graphs for readouts.

Once you enable fan control, manual or automatic, with SpeedFan, it'll take a reboot or possibly going to sleep and waking
to hand fan control back to the bios/board. I don't have AISuite installed but it's possible one could open it and regain control
that way once SpeedFan is closed or control is disabled which I'll cover below.

Do not randomly change stuff in SpeedFan, there aren't any safeguards, it will let you turn fans OFF, don't load the system
till you're pretty sure it's working at least semi-right.

Knowing what fans are plugged into what header on the board is important in getting this thing working right, it's easier if you have access
to them by hand while configuring. One of the fastest ways to ID a RPM readout is just reach over and stop the fan and see what drops to 0.

All that said, here is my setup and hopefully an explanation of what is what on this board with SpeedFan.
You should be able to completely configure the thing on a Sabertooth R2.0 with this data if I didn't make it too confusing.


Mine looks like this now...




And I monitor goings on with HWinfo64 like this...






First up Fan/Header ID..



Fan ID:
CPU Fan header is on IT8721F "Fan1" Address $290 (CPU in my SF)
CPU Opt header is on IT8721F "Fan2" Address $290 (Rear Exhaust in my SF)
CHA Fan1 header is on IT8721F "Fan3" Address $290 (Outer 120's Intake in my SF)
CHA Fan2 header is on SB 7xx/8xx PM2 Address $CCB (Inner 120's Intake in my SF)
CHA Fan3 header is on SB 7xx/8xx PM2 Address $CCB (200MM+Right Intake in my SF)
CHA Fan4 header is on SB 7xx/8xx PM2 Address $CCB (Left Intake in my SF)
GPU Fans are self explanatory.

See screencap below of this page, I would start with renaming your fan headers to something that makes sense for your setup.
Note that Fan4 and 5 in SF do not seem to read anything anywhere, my box is fully loaded so there isn't one not being used.







Next up is the Temperature tab. This one is pretty easy since SF only finds four temps, and one of them is invalid (Temp3).
I did not have to adjust anything on mine for these to be accurate, but there is the ability to adjust offset on each of these if need be.
Cross reference these temps with something else just to be safe unless you know what they run at idle by heart.
Screencap below should be self explanatory, rename them as you wish so you can ID them later, and un-check any that are invalid or unwanted.





Temperature tab part 2 that I forgot to get a screencap of, click on one of the temp names and you'll see at the bottom a list of values.
Desired temp, Warning temp, show in tray checkbox.
There are two modes of fan speed control with SF, the basic out of the box one is not unlike
manual mode in teh bios, you set for instance the CPU Core temp Desired Value at say, 35C,
SF will ramp up speeds once it hits 35C on a preset scale and when it hits the Warning Value will
go to 100%. It's good to test with these preset fan control curves first, they do work and are safe as long
as your desired temp is "warm" and your Warning temp is pre-meltdown. I used 35 core and socket temp, the socket
see's that way before the core with the D15 cooler on it. These settings tie into other fan control settings, so check em
and set em.


Temperature tab part 3, tieing a given temp to a given fan.
Note this only applies with the basic preset fan control curves, we'll get into the custom ones later.
And don't skip ahead since we haven't turned on fan control at all yet.
Click the + next to a temp value, you'll see a list of the fans you re-named earlier.
If you wanted the CPU+Exh in my case to follow the core temp, you'd check mark the box for that fan
under CPU Core. It is smart enough to let you tie multiple sensors to multiple headers as well.
See screencap..




The Speeds Tab. You'll notice SF had two sets of three "Pwm1, 2, 3" fan controls on the main page.
Screencap below shows which one is which. Uncheck the three for the SB 7xx/8xx PM2, they don't do anything.
The three on the IT8721F do, and you should rename them to something that makes sense for you.
Look at mine and you'll see which is which, CPU fan and CPU Opt are PWM1, CHA4 is PWM2, ALL the other
chassis fan headers are on PWM3. Note you may or may not have GPU fan control, I left mine alone since the
card bios seems to handle them fine and it's one less thing to configure. If you choose to play with they work just like
any other control does, but I am not sure if it takes a reboot to hand control back over to the card bios.
See screencap for detail.

Speeds Tap part 2: When you highlight a given can control address, at the bottom pops up an
option for minimum value and max value. These are self explanatory, I tested mine and found the minimum
speed my fans would function at. Interestingly, the two 140mm's on the CPU fan header and the single 120mm
on the CPU Opt header will function down to 10% or less, barely spinning. ALL the others STOPPED below 30%,
so I set the minimum for the case fans at 35% since I never want them totally off, and the CPU fan minimum at 25%.
I may revise this later, especially in the winter when it's chilly anyway. My 120's are identical so I'm curious why
one goes so low and the others not before they stop, my only guess is because I have at least two fans on each header other
than that singel on CPU Opt. It's not a big deal but it pays to take notice of this sort of behavior.
The other thing you'll see is a checkbox for "Automatically Variated", it is a per line item setting and it tells SF to vary this fan
according to the other setup parameters when checked. Leave it off for now, but remember it's there. Note there is also a global
"Automatic Fan Speed" check box on the main page.





Options tab, this stuff is pretty self explanitory. Note that I changed the Delta Value For Fan Speeds from
10 to 5, this is simply the % steps fan speeds are changed in. I found 10 to be a bit abrupt, all my fans are like 1500rpm max and 400ish on
the low end, set this to taste. You can also do C or F, some tray icon color junk, you'll figure it out.




The Advanced tab: This is probly what trips most people up but it's not that complicated.
The Chip dropdown, select the IT8721F since as we saw above this is the actual fan controlling chip.
Each of the line items is editable, but don't as you can muck things up unless you have a good reason.
It's this stuff which makes SF so configurable, you can change temp sensor type, fan divisors and multipliers
if you're getting crazy fan speed readings from non-standards-following fans, reverse PWM logic which does
just what it says, change the temp offset, and most importantly for us, tell the chip who is controlling the fan, the
bios(CoolNQuiet=SmartGuardian), or us/SpeedFan(Software Controlled). You can change this value for each of the three
PWM controllers we figure out what were earlier individually. I'd pick a non-critical one, like not the CPU fan, to play with first.
Click on it, hit the dropdown at the bottom and pick Software Controlled. No I don't know what ON/OFF is, but I suspect it turns
that PWM line off below the target temp and on 100% above it. The other setting of note is the check box on the lower right which is
per line item, "remember it". If you check this the control method will be retained after restarting SF, I'd leave it unchecked for now
just in case you need to start over. As I mentioned earlier, once Software Control is set, and it sets immediately, I haven't seen that going
back to SmartGuardian/bios control does anything but kick the fans to 100% which I assume is a safeguard.
On the options page we were on previously there is a checkbox for set fans to 100% on exit as well that is a safety measure,
I would assume some systems probably just turn the fans OFF when you close SF. That would be bad.
See screencaps...







Once you have allll that set up, click OK out of settings, and on the main screen you should be able to
manually run the fans up and down with the three percentage boxes. Do so one at a time checking the low
and high limit and that the control corresponds to the fan you renamed em to. If not, fix it.
Once you are satisfied with this, you have Software Control selected for the fan(s) you want automatically
controlled from the Advanced tab, you have the desired temp for each sensor set, you have the min and max fan speed
set, click on the Automatic Fan Speed checkbox at the upper right and see what happens. You should NOT be able to manually
control the fans with this checkbox checked, and assuming your system is below the target temps your fans should drop to the
minimum speed you have set. If so, fire up a heat generating program and watch them carefully, the percentage readout
will change real time to reflect what SF is requesting your fans to do. If it works, have a beer. If not, double check everything
again.

Next step will be setting up custom control fan curves, like AISuite had but less goofy.

Now I need a beer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfwalker View Post

Part 2. This is probly the easy part, especially if you've used AISuite or MSI Afterburner fan control or such for GPUs.

Open settings, Fan Control tab. Check the Advanced Fan Control box.

Click Add, give the control program a name, CPU or Case or whatever fan/temp is going to be involved.

I'll call mine test.
Test will appear in the white box, click on it.
Check the box for Controlled Speed, then from the dropdown to the right of it pick what fan set
you want controlled. You'll see they are named whatever you previously named them, mine are
CPU+Exh, Case and Left Intake. We'll pick CPU.
Lower left, click Add, a box will pop up showing your previously renamed temperature options,
CPU Socket, Case, CPU Core, GPU 1/2, and a bunch of hard drives in my case.
We'll select CPU Core and click OK.
The white box above the Add button now lists that source, click on it, a fan speed/temp graph
will appear. You can adjust the set points at will, you can also at the lower left and right
adjust the lower and upper range of the graph. If the temp in question is never below 30, that's a good
lower limit, if it's never over 70, that's a good upper, etc, etc. Fiddle with it and you'll get the feel.
The Hysteresis figure is how many degrees the temp must drop for the fan speed to drop down a level,
this prevents fast constant changes in fan speed on temperatures, like CPU core temp, that vary quickly up
and down.
The only real advice I have here is if you have a device, like the cpu core, that spends most of it's time between
say 30 and 40C when under moderate normal load, try to have that portion of the fan speed curve relatively flat
or the fan RPM will be all over the place. I'm still fine tuning and it's pretty mild here the last few days so I'm actually
having a hard time getting this thing hot with Prime95 or Intel Burn Test. It's definitely trial and error though.
The other interesting thing here, is you can click Add a second time and add a second, or third, forth, etc, etc, temp
sensor to be referenced and figure into the speed of the selected fan. The Method box at the upper right has to do
with this, and frankly I'm not positive how it's supposed to act yet. What I believe is Max Of Speeds is it chooses the
higher of the two speeds from the two chosen temp/graphs, if your temp source #2 goes up and requests 50% fan but temp
source #1 has not, it goes with #2. The other setting, Sum Of Speeds, seems to add the two together which I'm not sure what the
utility of is yet so I assume i'm missing something. While trying to tie the case fans to both the CPU socket reading and the GPU
temp, it seemed to run the fans higher than I wanted and not want to lower them. I'll continue to play with it.
Screencap below of my current CPU graph.







And this is my box just hanging out, web browsing and such with the current SpeedFan setup.
With the bios level control set to normal I'd have 750rpm CPU fans and 850ish everything else.
The turbo and silent options worked but they were still less than optimal from both a sound and cooling standpoint.



I am on mobile so no spoilers..
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