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[OFFICIAL] FX-8320/FX-8350 Vishera Owners Club - Page 4344

post #43431 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRusselo View Post

sorry for the late response but I am currently running an 8320 oc 4.4 Ghz and an r9 280x AND a 7950 both oc to 1150/1300 on a xt45 360.

with the lid off of my case for better flow, my cpu runs room temp at idle 19-21 deg C.
while gaming or running gaming benches, max 49-51 C

With the lid on, add 3-5 degress idle 23, used 55.

using Corsair SP 120 fans, static pressure quiet edition fans. not the best CFM, but with rad fans you want static pressure. Both is ideal.

so with a ut 60 you have just a little more head room than i do

So you are running CF?
The two cards will most likely put out more heat then my 290.
So coupled with my 8320 @ 4.7ghz I should be very good indeed.

Thanks for the share.

My lid is also away from the radiator.... as it is external. biggrin.gif


What do you guys think about putting the UT60 in push pull?
Worth it? Or would I be much better of by adding a cheap 240 rad?

It will really vary from person to person. Either would help

Push pull would depend on the fans used

The rad would help too
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post #43432 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johan45 View Post

Look at it this way chopper. Get some decent fans and try it. If it doesn't make a difference you'll still need mored fans for another rad.
It all depends on the CPU in particular. The process is the same but the results can really vary. No one can tell till the cpu is in the board what voltage you'll require for a particular clock.

That's a nice point there. thumb.gif
Haven't thought about it that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

It will really vary from person to person. Either would help

Push pull would depend on the fans used

The rad would help too

It both helps for sure.

Well I currently use ap-15s...
But they arent made anymore, right?

Although I am sceptic about the benefit from push pulling a 8 fpi rad...
Ah well. I will just see how well it performs as it is now. Maybe I can get away without upgrading to either path.

What would you guys advice as comperable fans?
Don't want to go all out with funds.
Cheapest fans that have a nice noise to pressure ratio.
    
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post #43433 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johan45 View Post

Look at it this way chopper. Get some decent fans and try it. If it doesn't make a difference you'll still need mored fans for another rad.
It all depends on the CPU in particular. The process is the same but the results can really vary. No one can tell till the cpu is in the board what voltage you'll require for a particular clock.

That's a nice point there. thumb.gif
Haven't thought about it that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

It will really vary from person to person. Either would help

Push pull would depend on the fans used

The rad would help too

It both helps for sure.

Well I currently use ap-15s...
But they arent made anymore, right?

Although I am sceptic about the benefit from push pulling a 8 fpi rad...
Ah well. I will just see how well it performs as it is now. Maybe I can get away without upgrading to either path.

What would you guys advice as comperable fans?
Don't want to go all out with funds.
Cheapest fans that have a nice noise to pressure ratio.

they are they never stopped. They are hard to find ( nidec requires a high moq )

Check coolerguys.com ( iirc if not I can get the link when I am at home )
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post #43434 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

they are they never stopped. They are hard to find ( nidec requires a high moq )

Check coolerguys.com ( iirc if not I can get the link when I am at home )

They could be in stock in some placed..
But Scythe states them as EOL.

I found them on Coolerguys. Sadly shipping from there would kill my budget. From the Netherlands here.
    
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post #43435 of 67911
So I've been told IBT is the program to test stability? well that program hates me, I've always done p95 tests 10min for tweaking quick tweaking, 2hr and 12hr overnight to confirm , then video games & general use.

When only using prime, I was prime stable last winter when I have nature on my side giving me some heat headroom I could do 4.5 @1.380~1.416v (avg and peak) with normal LLC and it passed the 12 hr without going over 62c.
I didn't have any problem for a few months but when it got warm I then reverted all my OC and went stock for the summer because my room would be crazy hot even with AC.

Now that Its cold again, I decided to start up again from stock.
So far its the same as last winter I can go upto 4.0 prime&game stable with stock 1.275v and normal LLC power savings off but CnQ ON, I personally don't mind if it throttles me when I hit 70c, because I don't want my cpu going past that ever.
But with IBT I fail the test with 4.0, with 3.9 I've gotten to pass, but I haven't gotten anything else to pass even going up to with 4.0-5.0 using 1.4v-1.51v to see if something would (which I found out I can boot 5.0 at 1.5, I can't do prime at all because of heat, but I was able to play half a 500 round game of bf4 before it crashed even when temps were under just 70c at the time.) devil.gif I really wanna get a new cooler now.

I'm back down to the 3.9/4.0 issue when using IBT. I can't get 4.0 IBT stable even with 1.4v which is messed because it works fine with p95 and everything else at stock volts. Should I consider 4.0 stable and move to 4.1 or find out why ibt is failing?

also is there way to tell why IBT fails a test? I tried googlling the results I'd get in the runs, but I couldn't find anything.
Edited by Sadmoto - 12/1/14 at 5:15pm
post #43436 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

They could be in stock in some placed..
But Scythe states them as EOL.

I found them on Coolerguys. Sadly shipping from there would kill my budget. From the Netherlands here.

If you can't get them locally, or way pricey now, check the swiftech helix. Almost the same fan blade geometry. Performs about the same as well. Not that sure about Undervolting them though.

In your previous question, Push-Pull will help but surely not as much as another Rad will have. But there's a point of diminishing returns somewhere. tongue.gif testing..
post #43437 of 67911
Got an Asus Cross hair IV Formula ROG and updated BIOS to vers 3029 and running with an FX6300 @stock. Anyone know of a guide to start OCing on this board. Would like a starting point as BIOS is old style.

Oldbarzo

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post #43438 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldBarzo View Post

Got an Asus Cross hair IV Formula ROG and updated BIOS to vers 3029 and running with an FX6300 @stock. Anyone know of a guide to start OCing on this board. Would like a starting point as BIOS is old style.

Oldbarzo

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Jay used an 8350 and a CHF in this video, but you maybe able to use some if not all of the settings with your 6300...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MckeAmnDeTk
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post #43439 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper1591 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

they are they never stopped. They are hard to find ( nidec requires a high moq )

Check coolerguys.com ( iirc if not I can get the link when I am at home )

They could be in stock in some placed..
But Scythe states them as EOL.

I found them on Coolerguys. Sadly shipping from there would kill my budget. From the Netherlands here.
ah forgot that you were not in the us sorry however they are not EOL

scythe lost the license to be able to sell them nor did they make, design or manufacture them, nidec-servo does
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadmoto View Post

So I've been told IBT is the program to test stability? well that program hates me, I've always done p95 tests 10min for tweaking quick tweaking, 2hr and 12hr overnight to confirm , then video games & general use.

When only using prime, I was prime stable last winter when I have nature on my side giving me some heat headroom I could do 4.5 @1.380~1.416v (avg and peak) with normal LLC and it passed the 12 hr without going over 62c.
I didn't have any problem for a few months but when it got warm I then reverted all my OC and went stock for the summer because my room would be crazy hot even with AC.

Now that Its cold again, I decided to start up again from stock.
So far its the same as last winter I can go upto 4.0 prime&game stable with stock 1.275v and normal LLC power savings off but CnQ ON, I personally don't mind if it throttles me when I hit 70c, because I don't want my cpu going past that ever.
But with IBT I fail the test with 4.0, with 3.9 I've gotten to pass, but I haven't gotten anything else to pass even going up to with 4.0-5.0 using 1.4v-1.51v to see if something would (which I found out I can boot 5.0 at 1.5, I can't do prime at all because of heat, but I was able to play half a 500 round game of bf4 before it crashed even when temps were under just 70c at the time.) devil.gif I really wanna get a new cooler now.

I'm back down to the 3.9/4.0 issue when using IBT. I can't get 4.0 IBT stable even with 1.4v which is messed because it works fine with p95 and everything else at stock volts. Should I consider 4.0 stable and move to 4.1 or find out why ibt is failing?

also is there way to tell why IBT fails a test? I tried googlling the results I'd get in the runs, but I couldn't find anything.
lots of practice ! ( idr it has been forever for me but several hints, timing, the results ect )
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USS CLM8-1701
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post #43440 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadmoto View Post

So I've been told IBT is the program to test stability? well that program hates me, I've always done p95 tests 10min for tweaking quick tweaking, 2hr and 12hr overnight to confirm , then video games & general use.

When only using prime, I was prime stable last winter when I have nature on my side giving me some heat headroom I could do 4.5 @1.380~1.416v (avg and peak) with normal LLC and it passed the 12 hr without going over 62c.
I didn't have any problem for a few months but when it got warm I then reverted all my OC and went stock for the summer because my room would be crazy hot even with AC.

Now that Its cold again, I decided to start up again from stock.
So far its the same as last winter I can go upto 4.0 prime&game stable with stock 1.275v and normal LLC power savings off but CnQ ON, I personally don't mind if it throttles me when I hit 70c, because I don't want my cpu going past that ever.
But with IBT I fail the test with 4.0, with 3.9 I've gotten to pass, but I haven't gotten anything else to pass even going up to with 4.0-5.0 using 1.4v-1.51v to see if something would (which I found out I can boot 5.0 at 1.5, I can't do prime at all because of heat, but I was able to play half a 500 round game of bf4 before it crashed even when temps were under just 70c at the time.) devil.gif I really wanna get a new cooler now.

I'm back down to the 3.9/4.0 issue when using IBT. I can't get 4.0 IBT stable even with 1.4v which is messed because it works fine with p95 and everything else at stock volts. Should I consider 4.0 stable and move to 4.1 or find out why ibt is failing?

also is there way to tell why IBT fails a test? I tried googlling the results I'd get in the runs, but I couldn't find anything.

Thats weird.

I can only think that you weren't stable after all with the 1.275v 4.0 clock.
Have you tried using higher LLC?

Personally I almost only use IBT.
It's a quicker test for me.

My 8320 is 10 runs IBT-avx very high stable @ 4.72 1.44v LLC Very High.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

If you can't get them locally, or way pricey now, check the swiftech helix. Almost the same fan blade geometry. Performs about the same as well. Not that sure about Undervolting them though.

In your previous question, Push-Pull will help but surely not as much as another Rad will have. But there's a point of diminishing returns somewhere. tongue.gif testing..

I will look into those.
Thanks.

thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

ah forgot that you were not in the us sorry however they are not EOL

scythe lost the license to be able to sell them nor did they make, design or manufacture them, nidec-servo does
    
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