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[OFFICIAL] FX-8320/FX-8350 Vishera Owners Club - Page 4779

post #47781 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurricane28 View Post

Thnx man, but i discovered that 9 times out of ten those things do not work..

It worked for me, see https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb/gp/windows-update-issues/en-ie

It's worth a try, I was getting all sorts of errors and after using this a couple of times it started to work as designed.
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post #47782 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post


Does this look slow? I dunno it seems slow to me?

It's better than mine,

lowered
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post #47783 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike The Owl View Post

It worked for me, see https://support.microsoft.com/en-gb/gp/windows-update-issues/en-ie

It's worth a try, I was getting all sorts of errors and after using this a couple of times it started to work as designed.

Thank you but i already tried almost everything to solve this problem but no matter what i do or so called "fix program" i download it doesn't work.

I am getting the 8024A008 Error code and i tried everything i could find on the net to solve this issue but non of them seems to work. Very strange, i scanned all my hard drives and none of them have problems and are working fine.

Its so frustrating..
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post #47784 of 67694
I am slowest by far.
My trusty old old old Mushkin.biggrin.gif

eCwAiqJ.png
post #47785 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by pshootr View Post

That is good, the stock timings for 2133 are 9-11-11-31, and you are getting 100 MHz more with slightly tighter timing (9-11-11-30). thumb.gif

Thanks. Purely at 2133 I can use 9-11-10-28 (maybe tighter if I try) but I guess the 100MHz OC needs a little looser timings. I'm still happy. I'll probably run Cinebench and some memory benchmarks on AIDA to see if there are any improvements.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolRoger View Post

To figure out optimal settings for your kit you need to know what type of ic is being used under the heat spreaders. What is the kit that you are running now? Is it the G.Skill in your sig rig? Do you have a link for the kit?

Most common ic for G.Skill 2400 kits are either Hynix or Samsung. Does your kit have single sided (ic) sticks or double sided (ic) sticks?

You can use this link here to decode the ic from the first 8 digits of the serial number located on the sticker that is applied to the side of each stick.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283666-Figuring-out-G-Skill-s-SNs

Thanks for the valuable information. The kit I am running, like you guessed, is the Ripjaws Z 2400MHz 2 x 4GB kit. Here is the link on Newegg.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231585&cm_re=ripjaws_z-_-20-231-585-_-Product

I don't know if my memory are single sided or double sided. Haven't really checked. Is it possible to check without taking the heatsinks on? My serial number starts with 1445. By the description in the link that might mean these memory were from week 45 of 2014. The next four numbers are 2500. The link you showed says X50X and for DDR3 under X50X shows 2500. That must mean my RAM are of Samsung. Not sure about single vs double sided
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post #47786 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurricane28 View Post

Thank you but i already tried almost everything to solve this problem but no matter what i do or so called "fix program" i download it doesn't work.

I am getting the 8024A008 Error code and i tried everything i could find on the net to solve this issue but non of them seems to work. Very strange, i scanned all my hard drives and none of them have problems and are working fine.

Its so frustrating..


First of all, if you experience corrupted files, be it that windows may have effed upp something or otherwise, reset everything overclocked to default settings.
I saw earlier that you tested stability with only IBT, right?
Ideally you would test a large number of stability tests, passing IBT does not guarantee you have a stable system by any means really.
So the problems may be an unstable OC, so to take that out of the equation, reset everything to default, atleast until you have narrowed down the cause of the problem...

As an example that just IBT may not prove a stable system, some days ago I tried some ram overclocking counter ram voltage.
I used IBT as it is very quick, just to avoid running memtest over night at settings that does not pass other, quicker tests.
I got a little confused as IBT passed with ram voltage as low as 1.65V, on a previous CPU these frequencies and timings only worked with 1.72V and up.
Might be a better cpu i thought so I began memtest, and it started spewing errors right at the start.
Sure enough, ram was not stable with less than 1.72V, but it still passed IBT, see where I'm getting at? wink.gif

What this show is, if your pc can pass IBT stability test, only proves that it is stable for IBT, it does not prove or verify anything else.
So if you want to be as sure you can be that the OC is stable, you should run a large variety of tests, and even then you might not be sure it is rock stable.


Another little anecdote regarding memtest and how long you should run it to consider it stable, yesterday I tested some other ram settings.
I let it run over night, checked this morning and 7 instances were running fine and had passed 1350% without a single error, but one instance had got 5 errors at 980%.
Had I only let memtest pass say 250% and quit the test, called it stable I would not know that the ram settings (or IMC) was unstable.

Just something to think about when people say that they know their OC is stable.
Passing a couple of runs of your favourite stability test just proves that the OC is stable enough to pass that test, it does NOT verify system stability as a whole.
If all you do with the PC is to run IBT then that may be fine, otherwise I would strongly suggest to run as much different stability tests you can.
That way you can better the odds some that the OC might indeed be fullt stable...
Edited by Spacebug - 3/22/15 at 2:38pm
post #47787 of 67694
Nothing can be verified no matter how much you stress the system. The best you can do is do a bit of each program. When I pass IBT Maximum 20 Runs or even 50 Runs that usually means I have a pretty stable system. But I still run Prime95, OCCT, AIDA over night at least once. Then I go with a overnight run of MemTest and then an overnight run of Memtest86(+) to check for errors on the RAM at the given OC/speed/timings. I can see a unstable BIOS setting corrupting the Windows install, constant restarts for OCing and changing settings in the BIOS can also corrupt the HDD also. Your install source for Windows 8.1 can also be a culprit if the source itself was a bit corrupted. Like Spacebug said if you value your data and time use lots of programs to test the system even if you don't want to. If you don't find any fix I suggest you set your whole system to default settings in the BIOS and reinstall Windows 8.1. If the OS install still gets corrupt then it may be the HDD/SSD or the windows install itself.
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post #47788 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by hurricane28 View Post

Thnx man, but i discovered that 9 times out of ten those things do not work..
I know it's a ****ty idea but have you considered a clean install?
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post #47789 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike The Owl View Post

I know it's a ****ty idea but have you considered a clean install?

Only thing I found was this

This issue can be resolved by re-running OOBE with sysprep then repairing Windows Update using the Fix-It utility.

1. Open a command prompt window and run the following command:
%systemroot%\System32\Sysprep\sysprep.exe /oobe
If the command is successful your computer will shut down when done, goto step 2. If the command fails, proceed to step 1b.

1b. Open regedit and navigate to:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\Setup
If there is a dword named "Upgrade" delete it. Note, there is also a subkey named "Upgrade" DO NOT delete it. In my case the "RollbackActive" dword was set to "1" so I changed it to "0". Reboot and try step 1 again.

2. Startup your computer and complete OOBE. Unlike the upgrade OOBE you will not be able to select an existing user account to use. Instead, create a throwaway account you can delete later.

3. Once you reach the desktop, navigate to:
Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Troubleshooting\All Categories
Right click on "Windows Update" and select "Run as administrator". Reboot when the Fix-It is finished.

Windows Update should now function normally.


Don't know if it will work for you.
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post #47790 of 67694
Quote:
Originally Posted by xKrNMBoYx View Post

I don't know if my memory are single sided or double sided. Haven't really checked. Is it possible to check without taking the heatsinks on? My serial number starts with 1445. By the description in the link that might mean these memory were from week 45 of 2014. The next four numbers are 2500. The link you showed says X50X and for DDR3 under X50X shows 2500. That must mean my RAM are of Samsung. Not sure about single vs double sided

You can take a flashlight and shine it down at the bottom of the stick looking under the heatspreader and you should be able to see ic mounted on both sides of the stick for double sided and just on one side of a stick if they are sigle sided.

You can also look at both sides of the golden fingers at the bottom of a stick... A single sided stick will have a bunch of small SMD's mounted on one side and none on the other (smooth). On a double sided stick will have the small SMD's mounted in a more balanced way on each side of the stick.

S/S 2666C11 Team Xtreem (Hynix):


D/S 2666C11 Kingston Predator (Samsung):
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