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post #50281 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post

HOW DO YOU EVEN KEEP THESE VRM'S COOL! Mine tops out at 5GHz in winter and even with the VRM fan it feels like caps are at 80C or so when I touch them.

when i hit 5.3 my system was in an old antec 902 case, and i had a 120mm fan suspended from the frame directly over the VRMS. don't get me wrong, i made a thread back when i was trying to find the max stable overclock for that computer, and motherboard temps were most certainly a limiting factor. however i was able to hit and maintain 5.0ghz in that case when ambient temps were under 75F

however, in the summer i'd back the overclock down to 4.8ghz just because i didn't want to blow up my electric bill keeping my room <75F in the summer here in phoenix

When i bricked the m5a99x Evo (no i didn't blow it up, i straight up bricked the motherboard's bios... i was playing around with power settings trying to find a way to lower core/vrm temps to allow a true 24/7 5.0ghz all weather overclock) durring one of the reboots the system stopped posting (no damage to the motherboard, the bios was bricked; after replacing the bios chip the motherboard worked again) so i swapped out the motherboard with a sabertooth.

Unfortunately the sabertooth ran hotter then the m5a99x evo, and i wasn't able to maintain 5ghz no matter what the ambient temps were. Until i moved my whole system into the Fractal Design Define R4. Once it was in the Define R4, i was able to keep the vrms cool enough to maintain a 5ghz overclock on the system again (that case had some great airflow).
Quote:
Originally Posted by JourneymanMike View Post

I believe that you either got lucky on the MB, or won the silicon lottery with the chip, or both...

Good clocks boys, on a mediocre board...

Are you using LN2! lachen.gif

that board wasn't mediocre in the slightest, i got some fantastic overclocked on that same board with my Phenom II x4 965be as well. It ran much cooler on the vrms then my sabertooth did, in fact it was a lot easier to keep the socket, package and motherboard temps down on the m5a99x evo then it was on the sabertooth.

it also maintained some very heavy overclocks on two different chips without popping. in fact it's still ticking (currently it's in my old antec 902 running my old phenom II for a friend, no problems, that board is over 4 years old now)

My FX 8320 was good, very good, but no where near as golden as some of the chips i've seen in this thread. I think i just had some very nice ram, a great power supply, and some great motherboards/cpu coolers (i was hitting those numbers on a h100)

BTW: this link is for my validation at 5.3ghz, and no the system wasn't stable there. I was at my motherboard's power limits, and my cpu's thermal limits. didn't even bother to run a stress test cause i feared blowing the whole thing up. I actually reached the power limits my motherboard could feed the cpu when trying to stabilize the overclock at 5.1. no matter what i set the vcore to the motherboard couldn't deliver more power to the cpu due to temps i suspect (though nothing was really overheating at that point, the voltage going to the cpu wouldn't go up)

so i made a quick run to see how high the cpu would boot at with that voltage and there were have a 5.3ghz validation. Look at those cpu temps, when all i was doing was booting windows, openning chrome and running a validation with CPUID.

at 5.0ghz it didn't need that much power, I was stable at 1.4875Volts (i think, i am going by memory now); never did try to see if i could get higher when i got the sabertooth. probably because i had such temp issues with it in the antec 902 i thought it would be pointless to try.
Edited by azanimefan - 6/7/15 at 10:39am
 
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post #50282 of 68054
What are people's opinion on 290X Crossfire as far as performance in gaming? The 290X alone is obviously better than the 290 I had, but now I wonder how 290X Crossfire should last me.
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post #50283 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by xKrNMBoYx View Post

What are people's opinion on 290X Crossfire as far as performance in gaming? The 290X alone is obviously better than the 290 I had, but now I wonder how 290X Crossfire should last me.

Reviews should be your resource.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/9059/the-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-x-review/5

Games that support XFire will give you results at least on par with a GTX Titan X if not better.

Else, a 290X is still a very good card.
post #50284 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Reviews should be your resource.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/9059/the-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-x-review/5

Games that support XFire will give you results at least on par with a GTX Titan X if not better.

Else, a 290X is still a very good card.

I'm in a situation where I can get a 290X at no cost to me, or get two for the price of one. Hence my dilemma. I would need a PSU upgrade for crossfire though. On the other hand I could replace a GTX 465 with the other 290X. I do like the idea of actually utilizing more than one of my PCI-E slots on my CHVFZ along with the 8350 @5GHz.
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post #50285 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by xKrNMBoYx View Post

I'm in a situation where I can get a 290X at no cost to me, or get two for the price of one. Hence my dilemma. I would need a PSU upgrade for crossfire though. On the other hand I could replace a GTX 465 with the other 290X. I do like the idea of actually utilizing more than one of my PCI-E slots on my CHVFZ along with the 8350 @5GHz.

2 for the price of one ?? No brainer, get them! While they are available. Or someone will!
post #50286 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

2 for the price of one ?? No brainer, get them! While they are available. Or someone will!

Aye, it's a personal option I have due to an acquaintance. Nothing where another person would get the same deal If I passed on (I don't think so at least). But I see that it's still a no brainer.
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post #50287 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

2 for the price of one ?? No brainer, get them! While they are available. Or someone will!

yeah hook me up and send me one too. xD
post #50288 of 68054






The DeathStar xD
Edited by RJ-Savage - 6/8/15 at 2:57am
post #50289 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by extracrunchy View Post

I just wanted to reply to the TIM talk.

Liquid metal does make a huge difference. More than 4c. Much more. I know, I use it. (more on that in a minute!)

But guess what... it doesn't make that big of a difference in between your cpu and water block. I noticed like a...2c difference there (if that, it could have been due to the level of care I used applying it!) Is it better than mxwhatever or as5 or whatever shin etsu stuff you can buy, or various other things? Yes. How much better? Couple degrees maybe. Maybe. If it's more you are probably doing something wrong applying your other stuff. Or your stuff isn't flat. tongue.gif

It works fine on copper. It works fine on nickel. Don't put it on aluminum. At least, if it's the same liquid metal product I've used. The contents are not a secret (the main ingredient starts with a "G" in most of them). You can put it on an aluminum can to test it! smile.gif

So where do those huge numbers people find (including myself, I noticed a massive almost unbelievable difference) come from? Well, it's off topic to this thread.

It's on de-lidded ivy and haswell where there is a massive gap between the heat spreader and die. Even sometimes after you clean the gunk off. It works *great* there because there is such a huge (in comparison) gap between the die and the heat spreader. I'd imagine if you cleaned the rim of the heat spreader off real well to make it fit super nicely the difference would be smaller. But I didn't want to take sandpaper to my heat spreader's rim.

If there is some sort of massive gap(s) between your heat spreader and your block you are probably doing something wrong lol.

When I put it in between the die and spreader on my 4770k I noticed a huge (I'm not going to say for sure as it was so long ago but it was >10c, easily) drop. When I replaced the mx4 in between the water block and heat spreader temps went down like 2c. I wouldn't use it in between the block and spreader again as who knows how it'll clean off after years of use. And that difference may have been how careful I was in applying it--I cannot say for sure, there's no way for me to really judge how well I applied it!

So I don't really think this should apply to AMD users. I didn't use it on my 8320 pc (just used the stock stuff that came on the h100 I used in that, but I havne't fired that PC up in a long time).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minotaurtoo View Post

its silver coated...but still its not copper or nickle or aluminum... your point falls as the contacting surface will be silver. http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=823 I've also seen gold plated ones...

Edit: I still think though that they were saying it was only incompatible with aluminum... or was it copper... the point is though that they hadn't excluded all normal heatsink materials
My point doesn't fall for a variety of reasons, such as the way that cooler is not even close to the target market of a liquid metal TIM (and was sold fourteen years ago), but that is indeed a somewhat fascinating anecdote.

As for your second statement... except for this oddity with the silver coating there really would be nothing else other than nickle. Coolaboratory specifically says the product isn't to be used on aluminum right on the package. There is nothing about incompatibility with copper. The entire debate here was between the claim that it is incompatible with copper (causing physical bondage) and that it is not. I am certainly willing to believe that there could be major issues between Liquid Pro and copper parts but I think more information is in order (Is it due to aluminum TIM residue? Is it due to a poor-quality copper alloy? Is it due to inconsistency in Liquid Pro batches? Are some of the claims from people with business interests?). The two sides' claims, as you can see, vary diametrically.


Here's a paper on the interaction of solid copper and liquid gallium which is what the liquid pro is mostly made of.
Quote:
Abstract
—The interaction between solid copper and liquid gallium is considered, which is the main process
during the setting of diffusion-solidifying solders. The dependences of the process rate and the size character-
istics on the phase composition of the initial mixture are found. The intermetallic compound CuGa2 is shown
to be the product of the interaction in all cases.

http://download.springer.com/static/pdf/19/art%253A10.1134%252FS0036029508060049.pdf?originUrl=http%3A%2F%2Flink.springer.com%2Farticle%2F10.1134%2FS0036029508060049&token2=exp=1433775986~acl=%2Fstatic%2Fpdf%2F19%2Fart%25253A10.1134%25252FS0036029508060049.pdf%3ForiginUrl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Flink.springer.com%252Farticle%252F10.1134%252FS0036029508060049*~hmac=cb1d2c94503abac308df7e5ce8e2e191fb04cb3ebbd2b776932e62a53753a103

And this is why you wouldn't use it with aluminum
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post #50290 of 68054
Yeah seen some of them Liquid Metal Tims, probally do work exceptionally well... but yeah some corrosive as hell with some metals....some excessive bonding/eating/corrosive nature etc...

many have reported an easy 10c drops vs usual/conventional TIM's/pastes...
Edited by RJ-Savage - 6/8/15 at 4:17pm
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